Hello everyone,
I have a question about what type of wood to use for a workbench, and since I enjoy using handtools, who better to ask than other handtool enthusiasts.
I have a choice between American Beech and Ash. Both are going to be cut from logs, so both are wet lumber. I read that Beech is harder to dry because it is prone to twisting and cracking. Ash is supposed to be easier to dry, but I am not sure if I want the open grain of ash. Although I could fill the grain, or not, depending on what it looks like.
Does anyone have any suggestions about the wood? I am looking to build a Roubo style workbench, so the top will be between 4 and 6 inches thick. And yes, I know it will take a long time to dry. Their will be two slabs glued together in the center like Chris Swarz Roubo bench.
Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Replies
wood for workbench
one option would be to buy your lumber for the top already dried. My understanding and brief experience with air drying hardwood is that it needs about a year per inch so you'll be waiting awhile for that 6 inch top to cure...There's no law that says the top and supporting structure need be made of the same wood...my bench has both ash and maple for the support and a maple top....I'm thinking about making the Roubo style bench as I have alot of maple and walnut drying in the backyard from trees cut down over the last year and a half but plan on trying to find some thicker slabs at a lumber yard for the top. Good luck on your bench, it should be an enjoyable project.
Neil, not really novice anymore.
Wood for workbench
Neil,
The problem with buying the lumber already dry is first finding it, then paying for it.
Like I said, I realize it would take a while to dry, and if I need to, I can kiln dry the lumber. However, that was not the question I was looking to have answered.
I wanted to know the advantages and disadvantages of either American Beech vs. Ash for a worktop. I realize that it will take an exceptional time for the wood to dry, and I am prepared to wait or kiln dry it. The question is which one is more desireable for a workbench.
Ash has open pores which will shed glue or stains less easily. Otherwise, I don't think it would matter too much. Be sure that the boards in the top are arranged so they can all be planed in the same direction when truing up the top.
Steve,
The open pores was my concern also. I could always fill them before I finish. The concern I have with the Beech is I read it tends to deform more as it dries, which means more work trueing it up. I also read Ash is supposed to be more stable.
Thanks for reminding me about the arrangement of the boards, it would be my luck to have them different directions. lol
Use whatever is cheap and plentiful
After all, it is a work bench, not a piece of furniture. IMO I would not use either, they are too hard. The moment you drop a piece you are making and it hits the edge it will dent the wood you are working on instead of denting the bench. Save the beech and ash for some nice projects and go get you some nicely dry pine and make a bench with it. Of course I am assuming (which can be bad) that you will be working on this bench, chopping dovetails, sawing etc. Things that will eventually mar your bench.
Good luck.
I would use the Ash.. I understand that the Ash tree is under attack.. At least here near in the midwest.. Chicago... It may end up like having a woodworking bench of American chestnut in 50 years and sell for $100,000.00 in the next generation of your kin!
Experience with an ash bench
I built as ash bench this year. It is in the Dominy or Holtzapffel style with a twin screw vise and an end vice. I researched and searched for wood for quite awhile. I narrowed it down to ash or soft maple. Beech at a decent price would have been great, but it was impossible to find. SYP and doug fir also were scarce in the Chicago area. Ash is plentiful hear because of the Emerald ash borer infestation; but it is not cheap kiln dried. $3-4 a bf for 8/4 stock. One of ash's attributes is that it is knot-free. I bought over 100 bf without a knot. A drawback is that it varies in color and grain so you end up with a bench of many colors. The open grain issue is not a factor in my opinion. This bench is no more prone to stain than my old maple bench. I have discovered a natural product made from soy oil that will remove any stains and leave the wood unchanged. This product is sold as a graffiti remover. IMHO I would stick with kiln-dried wood unless you can find some that is already air dried. The dirfference in price is not worth the wait. A bench made from decent stock and good hardware is going to cost $500-1000, but it is the best tool you will own. Ash is a great choice for a high-quality bench, as would beech if you can find it.
Open grain not an issue
I used Ash for my bench and have never had a problem with with the open grain. A couple of coats of boiled linseed oil and an occasional application of paste wax allow dried glue to be scraped off easily.
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