Replies

1. 
   _mj_ | Apr 01, 2022 08:44am | #1

   If you don't need the interior pristine... cutting both parts taped together with the table slightly angled on a scroll saw makes parts that key together. They usually drop in too far or stand slightly proud of the surface depending on the material & kerf thickness.

1. 
   Badger1805 | Apr 01, 2022 11:27am | #3

   Here's the very simple mathematical formula to give you the exact required scroll saw table tilt angle for the inlay to fit perfectly. It's a function of the saw kerf and wood thickness. (This is a reprint of a page from our Woodworker's Guild newsletter, dating back to 1988). Basically, the angle is the arc sin (it's on your calculator) of the ratio of the saw kerf to the background wood thickness. If you want the interior to be smooth as well, make the background wood and inlay wood the same thickness.

   
2. 
   Deleted | Apr 01, 2022 11:26am | #2

   “[Deleted]”

3. 
   gulfstar | Apr 01, 2022 11:39am | #4

   Thank you, the only machine tool I don’t have is a scroll saw !

1. 
   Badger1805 | Apr 01, 2022 11:50am | #5

   I rarely use mine, but there are times when it is the only tool for the job. This may be one of those times, but I'll be interested to learn how others would handle it. I suppose you could use a router with a guide bushing, if the shapes have rounded corners. Otherwise, you might have to resort to cutting out the inlay shape with a bandsaw, and then using chisels and gouges to cut the recess.

4. 
   jharveyb | Apr 01, 2022 03:24pm | #6

   I have recently let in several butterfly keys (bow-ties). They are a relatively simple shape, having all straight lines, but the technique will work for curves if you have gouges of the approximate curvature or tighter.
   After I make the shaped inlay piece, I slightly bevel the edge(s) with a file. Then I clamp the piece in place and scribe around it with a sharp pointed knife blade. I set a router with the desired depth of recess, and remove (carefully) all the wood to near the line (which for walnut has been made more visible with a white leaded pencil.) I then approach the line with several paring cuts with a chisel (or gouges), setting the edge in the knife cut for the last cut. (Don't try to take a lot of wood in the final cut, or it may push the chisel back into the wood that should remain, loosening the fit.) Tapering the edge slightly moves the knife cut inward just enough that its thickness doesn't make the fit too loose. I recommend that you practice before working on the finished pieces.
   Given that you said that the piece is to be a vase, if that implies that it needs to hold water, I would not recommend thru cuts with glue joints between different species of wood. You want the interior to be as joint free as possible. That does raise the question of how you expect to fit the bottom. Will there be a metal or glass liner inside the vase? A stable, glued in bottom is not likely with solid wood.

1. 
   gulfstar | Apr 01, 2022 04:38pm | #7

   Thank you, There are no special requirement for the interior, it will not hold water. This is the technique I was thinking of using but hoping for a quicker one, I was planing to make the inserts that have a combination of curved and straight sides and can be adjusted on my edge sander. Making the cavity would be the time consuming activity.

5. 
   howlandwoodworks | Apr 01, 2022 06:46pm | #8

   I use the inlays to hold things together.
   Router table and sled

   
6. 
   fourier_transform | Apr 01, 2022 07:20pm | #9

   Doing inlay well (i.e. no gaps) on a curved surface takes practice. Lots and lots of practice.

   I'm experienced with inlay and this job sounds particularly difficult. I suggest that you practice extensively before setting chisel to the final piece.

   I once talked with a woodworker that made an elliptical jewelry box (about 10" x 8" x 6"). He was a graduate of the Krenov School (nee School of the Redwoods). He was selling it at an art studio with a price tag of $10,000 (!!). And that was in 2006.

   The inlay was exquisite (museum-quality). He said that at $5,000 (the studio's cut is 50%) he was making slightly above minimum wage.

7. 
   gulfstar | Apr 01, 2022 10:09pm | #10

   The surfaces are flat.

8. 
   gulfstar | Apr 27, 2022 09:45pm | #11

   I completed the project today, it took 23 hours and each insert took between 30 and 45 minutes, there are ten. I used a palm router with a spiral bit to remove the bulk of material and chisels to finish the cuts, inserts were roughed out with a band saw and adjusted on the edge sander. Turned out really nice.

   
9. 
   _mj_ | Apr 28, 2022 06:44am | #12

   Sweet! Great to see the finished project.

10. 
    john_c2 | Apr 28, 2022 07:03am | #13

    Very, very nice. Thanks for sharing.

11. 
    bergenfurniture | May 17, 2022 05:38am | #14

    I had been reading about wood inlay techniques and found MOP (Mother of Pearl) to be a good approach. It’s particularly used for creating inlays on the necks of guitars and other musical instruments but can be used with other woods as well. Moreover, it requires only two tools, a Forstner drill bit and a drill press.

12. 
    DzenitisArtAndEngineering | Dec 13, 2023 05:38pm | #15

    Just finding this. Great job!