Hi everybody! I`m going to make some dressers out of pine, and I will dovetail the
drawers, and use a wood center guide system, the traditional way. My concern is
that since pine is so soft, I would do well to use maple or white ash for the drawer sides—but is the seasonal movement of ash(or maple) comparable to the pine drawer front? If different, could the hardwood side split the pine front?
Replies
paulkay,
I've seen maple, oak, mahogany and cherry drawers with pine sides and no sign of splitting so I don't think it's an issue. Unless the drawers are several feet deep and then the two might have problems with each other. With only a few inches involved the difference in shrinkage, assuming some exists, should be negligible
Someone with the shrinkulator url might weigh in to offer it up to you.
Kell
Paul, pine is relatively stable compared to the hardwoods you mention. However, ash would be slightly more stable than the maple. As Kell mentioned, if the drawer isn't too deep, it shouldn't be a problem anyway. Unless you're a real pro at dovetails, there'll be some slop in the joint to absorb a little of the stress.
If you're really concerned, though, you can do a little "adjusting" in terms of stock selection. If the pine fronts are flatsawn, you can use quartersawn or rift sawn ash. Eastern white pine's tangential shrinkage, green to ovendry, is 6.1%, while white ash has a radial shrinkage of only 4.9%...so, by paying some attention to grain direction you can compensate for any serious shrinkage differentials.
Unless you're a real pro at dovetails, there'll be some slop in the joint to absorb a little of the stress.
Jon, thank you, thank you, thank you. Gold star for you. You've just provided me with my best excuse ever for a gap in my dovetails. Bless you. <grin>
David ("What, that? That's just to absorb wood movement. Part of the design, y'know.")"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad
Yup, Dave. It's called the Silver Dollar fit. If you can drop a silver dollar in the crack between the pins and tails...then there's no sense worrying about shrinkage stress.
...You'll have more important things to worry about.
Have dovetails hit a new low with this discussion(LOL)?
Ahhhhh, the Shrinkulator:
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/shrinkulator.htm
You can also get a similar program to **download** onto your computer at the new magazine "Just Woodworking"
http://justwoodworking.com/links/wood_move.php
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
If you are interested in tradition, make the whole drawer and slides from pine. It will be a hundred years before the drawers show much wear if you periodically put some paraffin on the sliding parts.
I have a set pine drawers with pine side slides in my shop as a pedestal for a work surface. I have one drawer loaded with three power drills and another loaded with some other heavy stuff. The unit is about 15 years old and there is no appreciable wear. The slides have been coated with paraffin and the drawers slide like there were on metal slides.
Howie,
I was going to say the same as you.
Might be better to make both the drawer runner and drawer side out of the same timber. That way, wear is uniform, and not concentrated on one part or the other, causing quicker drawer failure. (although it would take a number of years to be noticed).
Cheers,
eddie
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