I plan to build a fixed (up against a wall) corner bench out of live-edge bubinga. The width of the bubinga is about 15″ and I plan to miter it in the corner. Because of wood movement, this rather long miter (about 20″) is likely to open and close with the seasons. Do you have any suggestions on how I can keep the miter tight.
Edited 1/22/2009 5:16 pm ET by barr
Replies
It is not likely to move with the seasons over 20". It will move with the seasons. Why miter it at all with a live edge? It would seem, from a design standpoint, that a live edge board needs no frippery like a mitered end. Too British I would think for a board from the jungle.
But do not fear movement, expect it. Don't ask wood to not be wood. It will move. Let your design speak to that. Good luck. Have fun with it.
Gary Rogowski
http://www.northwestwoodworking.com
I get it,mitered into the corner. I'm seeing a L shaped bench. Is that so? Thick like 2x? Mounted to the wall or free standing? I would probably just dowel the miter but you could install some type of mechanical hardware from underneath. Ive used ones that strattle the joint and then can be tightened. I should know what their called , I've bought them but... They use them on counter top installations.. you know pre-made formica counter tops with a long a miter seam for the corner. So, I'd guess Home depot would have them.
The leg design could also factor into supporting /reinforcing the joint.
Also,since it's in the corner that corner can be screwed or lagged. Plug it if you think someone pull it out to look!
At 15", it won't expand/contract very much, but it will move and you need to allow for it. Don't try to glue it and prevent the movement or it will likely split. Do an on line search for "wood movement" and you will find calculators that help you determine how much movement you can expect. These will be based on the wood species, dryness of the wood, and expected changes in temperature and humidity. Once you know this, fasten the mitered corner in such a way as to maintain alignment, but allow both pieces to move in the cross grain direction. This is usually done with cross grain battens fastened with screws through elongated holes. This allows the screws to slide in the elongated holes as the bench top moves. Expect the miter to open and close with the seasonal changes and live with it. You can't stop it.
Counter top connectors.
As he wood dries, it will shrink across its width and since at the heel of the miter the board is 15 inches wide and gets progressively narrower towards the point, the greater wood contraction at the heel will cause it to want to open. The opposite will happen as the wood expands and the tip of the miter will want to open. I have been in that situation joining a 12 inches wide board to a 21 inches one and chose to join them at 90 degrees using 3 loose tenons and two countertop connectors between the tenons.
He built the bench in 2009.
It should finally be dry.
First, Bubinga is a good choice because of its length and durability... You only have to use at least three pillars to provide firm support.
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