Hello,
I’m building copy’s of my Grandfathers table he made for my mother before I was born.
I’m using Black Walnut for my copy’s.
I will be adding an apron to the underside of the top and not just adding glue blocks and nails like my grandfather did.
My question is about the wood movement of the bottom shelf. The shelf is about 7 1/2″ deep from front to back. I would like to use M & T jointery at these 3 points but I don’t know over time if this will hinder the wood movement and create a crack?
Any help would be great!
thanks,
Vance
Replies
I was gonna ask for a drawing or pic, but then I saw your other post.
I don't think you'll have any problem with wood movement on this bottom shelf to make any difference. Heck, the legs will flex enough to take up the movement -- if there is any appreciable movement.
That said, these joints are typically dowel joints since there's not much wood there to fashion a tenon from. So they are tenon joints, just round tenons. ;-)
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
Mike,
I didn't think wood movement would be a problem but if I'm going to do all of this work, I wanted extra advice.
Yes using round tenon's would and will be much simpler and square ones.thanks, thanks,vance
Yes using round tenon's would and will be much simpler and square ones. I wonder?
Both about the same work. I love fitting things that do not quite fit! Worked with my wife for years!
Maybe you already figured it out, but I thought I'd emphasize what Mike was saying: the front edge needs a tenon of some sort (e.g., a dowel) into the leg. Simply shaping a tenon on the shelf stock would be prone to snapping off (and difficult to form). And structurally, that edge of the shelf is very weak and needs more than glue to attach it to the leg.
BTW, it would be ok to form tenons on the ends of the shelf stock to go into the other two legs, but I'd probably just use dowels there, too. Fewer setups...
I'd also suggest that you wait to shape the front edge of the shelf until after you've positioned the dowels and holes. Dry assemble everything and mark the shelf edges where it intersects the legs. Then shape the shelf.
Good luck!/dev
Dev,
thanks for your input. I've learned the hard way to always do the jointery first and then shape after.
It's great to have this forum to help me with anything I'm unsure of!!vance
Seasonal expansion wasn't a problem with your grandfather's design because the top and shelf would move at about the same rate. In your re-design, the top will float free, and the tops of the legs will be limited by attachment to the apron. But, I'd agree that the 7 1/2" wide shelf made of black walnut won't expand/contract all that much. Wider, though, and it might be an issue.
Ralph,
thanks for your thoughts and input, Sir.Vance
Vance,
The length of the legs will allow enough flex that the movement of the relatively narrow shelf shouldn't over stress either the joinery or the shelf. Making the shelf from quarter sawn will immediately cut your wood movement in half, to around just an 1/8" in most climates.
John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007
Thanks John,I don't have access to that type of walnut stock.In the past we talked about setting up knives on my jointer. I did buy the Oneway Multi gauge and had much better luck with getting the knives closer to "0".It's cool to see the finished cut from a well tuned Jointer will produce!!It still took a while to set up the knives, but with practice I'm sure I'll get faster doing this task.Thanks again to all for your input and ideas,
Vance
Vance,No matter how a tree is cut up there is always some quarter sawn wood produced, it is unavoidable. So unless your wood source has been picked over by someone else, you should be able to find some quarter sawn in the stack.John W.
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