Replies

1. 
   joduffy | Aug 30, 2005 11:29pm | #1

   I also happen to be making maple kitchen cabinets with 3/4" birch plywood carcasses.  I ordered 4/4, white, 1 common maple from my lumber supplier.  Maple can have a lot of color variation, so if your lumber yard offers white, this is a good option.  1 common instead of select and better grade because cabinets are a lot of small parts and you can cut around any knots that might be present and not lose much in the way of waste.  This grade costs about half that of select and better.  Also, my lumber supplier offers the option of preparing the lumber, either by ripping one edge straight, planing to desired thickness, etc.  If you have a planer and jointer you'll save money by doing it yourself.  It will probably come in random widths, at a specified length (8', 12', etc.).  I'm making shaker style cabinets with flat panels, so I chose to use half inch maple plywood for the door panels.  I specified white, A2, veneer core, plain sawn, but this depends on the look that you are after. 

   Joe

2. 
   Bioman | Sep 01, 2005 08:08pm | #2

   There are several good books on building kitchen cabinets.  Suggest you invest and read a bit before attempting, there are just so many ways to do this.  Also, if your new, you may not have the tools you need on hand, so figuring out what your construction technique will be is even more important, as it may involve some tools and tooling purchases.  Here are several books that are available on Amazon.  I used the one by Cary and liked it.

   Building Kitchen Cabinets (Paperback)
   by Udo Schmidt

   Building Traditional Kitchen Cabinets (Paperback)
   by Jim Tolpin

   Build Your Own Kitchen Cabinets (Paperback)
   by Danny Proulx

   Building Your Own Kitchen Cabinets : Layout-Materials-Construction-Installation (Paperback)
   by Jere Cary

   Likely some in your local library as well.

    

1. 
   Denman | Sep 04, 2005 10:36pm | #6

   Cary's book is excellent...and I particularly enjoy Toplin.

   Certainly take the time to read as many reference books as you can.

   You haven't mentioned finish. If you intend to spray on a lacquer or paint finish, paint grade 3/4" maple plywood is a very cost-effective product to use.

   There are many variables and that is why reading up on the subject is so important.

   Good luck!

    

3. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Sep 02, 2005 05:50am | #3

   I buy rough-sawn and pick it out myself.

   It comes in consistent lengths (generally) and random widths.  I  estimate the board foot and then some overage and waste.

   Seems like there's lots of variation in the color/grain of maple...why I like to pick it out...I look for S2S (surfaced on two faces) so I can match color and grain..doesn't cost too much more..maybe $.20 per b.f.

   I wouldn't spend time book matching unless you have some really nice figure to show for it..a waste of time in my opinion.

   What you use is up to you.  To my eye, maple looks more modern, Oak more traditional...walnut is nice...just depends on what you like....

    

   lp

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 03, 2005 04:44am | #4

   walnut is nice...LOL..LOL... Sorry.. I just found this really funny in the context stated...

4. 
   wrudiger | Sep 03, 2005 07:19am | #5

   Paul, 

   I would suggest you consider prefinished plywood for the cases.  Doesn't cost a whole lot more, is incredibly durable (2 coats clear epoxy finish) and saves you from having to finish a whole lot of sq. ft. of material.  "Nova" is the name of the stuff I get.  I'm using maple, and as one of the posters stated there is a lot of color variation, but for the insides of cabinets, most of which will be covered by drawers it doesn't bother me.

   Wayne

1. 
   CJH | Sep 30, 2005 07:42pm | #11

   How much are you paying for the Nova and in what thickness? Is it finished both sides?

   Edited 9/30/2005 1:28 pm ET by CJH

1. 
   wrudiger | Oct 01, 2005 03:27am | #12

   Most recent purchase was at the end of July.  At that point:

   - 3/4" White Maple C2 = $61.50

   - 1/2" White Maple C1 = $57.65

   - 1/4" White Maple C4 = $34.55

   - 1/2" Appleply C1 Nova = $75.00 (for drawer sides)

   The 1/4" is finished one side; the others both sides.  Also, it's 48.5" x 96.5" IIRC.

1. 
   CJH | Oct 01, 2005 04:49am | #13

   Thanks. That's priced very reasonably given the cost and time it would take to apply an epoxy coating yourself.

5. 
   woodworker79 | Sep 06, 2005 06:19pm | #7

   Paul,

   Good luck. Sounds like we are in the same boat. I too will be making my first attempt at a full kitchen build of cabinets. I am also making it out of maple. Can I ask why you have chosen Birch ply vs. Maple ply? I was planning on using Maple ply to match the face frames. Just wondering if you had a reason to use birch instead of the maple.

   Also, my wife wants a natural finish on the maple. Of course she is judging by what we see at the box stores and what they call "natural". I'm not sure this is the same as placing poly finish over maple or if they have some sort of stain. Does anyone have any insite on this?

   Please keep this thread going and let me know how you are doing. I'd be happy to exchange some design ideas if you are interested.

   Tim

1. 
   pmcint01 | Sep 06, 2005 07:03pm | #8

   Tim,.

    

   Birch ply is cheaper I think.  The books I've read said to make the carcases out of Baltic Birch Ply.  I had planned on making the face frames and doors out of solid Maple.  Although I haven't figure out iff you make the door panel out of one piece or if you'll have to glur two together.

    

   PAul

1. 
   woodworker79 | Sep 06, 2005 08:30pm | #9

   Paul,For a very long discussion on wide panels vs. glue-ups, visit the following:http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=25301.1My contention is you should glue up panels larger than 8". Unless you want to spend time making sure that the wood is very dry and stable, this is the easiest way to get the best results. Just alternate the growth rings when gluing. Grain match can be a problem with glue ups, but in the case of maple, the grain is very light and glue joints don't show as easy as a wood with heavy grain (like oak). Are you doing raised panels? Have you set up a good router station or do you have a shaper?I haven't fully investigate birch vs maple on cost. I will be doing that soon. I just estimated the amount of wood I will need so I will be shopping around soon. If it is cheaper, it does look similar to maple, so I guess I could go with that.Tim

1. 
   pmcint01 | Sep 07, 2005 04:21pm | #10

   Tim,

    

   Thanks for that advice on glue up panels.  I had just read in the FWW Power Tool technique magazine that raised panels should be solid boards.  I was planing on doing raised panels.  Youa re way ahead of me though.  I'm still int he learning stage and don't even have a shop full of tools yet.  So I'm probably at least 6 months away before cutting my first piece for my cabinets.  I only own a $150 Craftsman Contractor Table saw and some really old routers.  I need to get the whole set up going.

    

    

   Paul