I have a source of Douglas fir that I get from old crossarms on hydro poles. I have just made a kitchen table with this beautiful wood.
A problem has developed and I am looking for advice. This table is 54 inches diameter. It has a 19 inch diameter hole in the center where a lazy Susan will go. The wood is 5/4 thick. It looks like a really big donut.
The table is made from 57 wedges of Doug fir all facing into the centre. The grain runs from the outside to the center point minus the 19 in. hole for the lazy Susan. This table top looks amazing. 4 weeks went by between glueup / sanding and this week. It was stored in a vertical position in the basement work shop.
The table has cupped. The inside edge has lifted about one inch higher than the outside edge. It has shown no sigh of equalizing.
I think that the outside edge which is 12 ft. in circumference has shrunk much more than the inside edge which is 5 ft in circumference.
With summer and winter expansion of the wood I do not think this table will flatten out and stay that way. What do you think?
I am looking for ways to relieve the stresses in the table top. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have about 25 hours invested in the table top alone.
Barry / Hydroman
Replies
Barry,
I'm afraid you've got a serious heartache there. The differences in expansion - contraction are going to keep the tabletop in rebellion. It's a design that really should have been done in veneer.
Is it possible to salvage? I don't know really. You could consider breaking it up into sections (6,8?) and attaching them to a substrate or understructure that would allow each section to move independently. There would have to be a gap or reveal of some kind between each section to take up the movement.
Worst case - you put it on the wall as a monument to wood movement.
Good luck,
DR
thanks for your reply. What do you think if I rout the whole top down to 1/4 to 1/8 thick veneer and glue it to a plywood base. Will it be thick enough to cause cracking as it wants to expand and contract.
Barry
1/4 inch will act like solid wood, even 1/8 inch can cause problems and will stress whatever the substrate it is glued to. You could probably make a new top out of shop cut veneer in considerably less time (and dust and noise) then it would take to router away 90% of the original top.
If you cut your top at one point from the edge to the center it will flatten out, with the cut opening up an inch or two probably. If you divide the top into a few pie shaped pieces, with some type of substructure to allow them to move with moisture changes, you can use the top in its full thickness, you'll just have to make the seams between the segments look like an intentional design element.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
From John's response he appears to see it as I do. Break it up into segments and create a design element that will incorporate the reveals.
DR
thanks guys
I am going to cut it into 5 segments and loose dowel them together. I will send a photo when it is finished. There will be a bit of a delay because of my knee surgury on Monday. I appreciate the help.
Barry
wood shrinkage in a round tabe
thanks for the advice back in February. You may recall that my table top shrank and warped like a saucer. Here are some photos of the finished table. It turned out fantastic. I divided it into 5 sections leaving a gap of 1/8 inch for expansion. The sections are loose doweled together. It even looks like I planned it that way.I hadn't used the Fine Woodworking forums before but glad I did this time.
thanks again
Barry
Glad it worked out well, and thanks for taking the trouble to update us.DR
Good job, however, if you are going to post pictures, reduce them to no more than 50-60 kb. Your pictures are slow to load and can not be viewed as a single pictureHowie.........
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