Replies

1. 
   AlanWS | Nov 23, 2009 05:36am | #1

   I don't know what you have, but one type of stabilized wood is saturated with an acrylate ester monomer, I think using vacuum to get rid of air that might interfere with penetration, and perhaps followed by pressure. Once the monomer is inside, it is polymerized to convert to a polymer, or long chain molecule made up of many copies of the monomer strung together. This polymer is a plastic something like plexiglass, but it is distributed intimately throughout the wood. The resulting composite is more durable than wood, and does not take up water, so it's more stable as well. I don't think it is a practical process to do yourself, as the equipment and expertise needed are considerable.

   
   

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   Edited 11/22/2009 9:38 pm by AlanWS

1. 
   Masrol | Nov 23, 2009 07:35am | #2

   Thanks Alan,

   It's priceless info for me. Now I know why they (Knifemaker Supply Stores) advise me to use stabilized wood. The process is complicated to me, so I'd rather buy ready scales since I am not making a living on it.

   Thanks again Alan,

   Take care  

   masrolsumairi

   Edited 11/22/2009 11:36 pm by Masrol

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Nov 23, 2009 09:52am | #3

   From my experience turning stabilized wood, it is much harder to machine than most woods. It's more like working a chunk of hard plastic (or lignum vitae) than a regular chunk of maple or walnut.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodworks.com and http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

2. 
   BrianDerr | Nov 24, 2009 07:59am | #4

   I am also somwhat of a knifemaker, and not of the stabilized wood camp. I am sure that it must add something in the way of all-season durability to the material, but the woodworker in me says that for moderate use and choice hardwood, it's unecessary and restrictive. I have read very qualified knifemakers say that for hard/oily woods it's not necessary. Perhaps mainstream hobbyist knifemakers are uncomfortable with wood, they want to be able to treat it like an inert material, so they use stabilized for peace of mind. A woodworker understands that at the widths we're talking about movement isn't an issue for properly processed wood, what's left is 'just' a finishing issue. Not against nasty chemicals per se (wait . . . ), just saying relax, you don't need it. Spend the money you save on a moisture meter and some nice fruitwood. Just my 0.02, obviously.

   Anyway, just finished my first wood sheath. Easy, actually. The harder part is a good system to make it belt carriable. But I think I've got a good idea. The knife is a 5.5 inch hidden tang Puuko with a brass, bone and almondwood handle and almondwood sheath. What knife do you have on the bench? Have you checked out Northcoastknives.com? As a beginner (knifemaker--not woodworker!), it is a site that really clicks with me, and I get a lot of supplies there.

   Brian

1. 
   Masrol | Nov 24, 2009 03:27pm | #5

   Hi Brian

   I thank you for sharing your knowlege and experience with us. I've wondering too how our great great grandfathers treated the wood for knife handles, sword handles and even axe handles 100s yrs ago when this wood stabilizing technique did not enven reach them. And until now, we can use those tools without problem. So I think what you have said makes sense.

   I would be happy if you can showcase you wooden sheath because I also intended to make one from wood since leather is expensive and hard to find in my place.

   Take care Brian.   

   Have a look at my model handle (made from scraps, soft and very cheap) I just finished before I have the guts to use expensive stabilized scales.

    

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   masrolsumairi

   Edited 11/24/2009 7:30 am by Masrol