I was able to rescue some 100 years old peroba do campo wood formerly used as 8″ x 2″ and 12″ x 2″ roof beams in quite good condition except for irregular black stains around wholes made by old iron nails, probably due to tannin in the wood. I was able to do a pretty good job correcting the wholes but have no idea on how to get rid of the black stains that look so bad in this otherwise beautiful fine grained straw colored Brazilian hard wood that has disappeared from commerce a long time ago. Could anyone help me?
Fernando Gontijo Teixeira
[email protected]
Replies
Fernando ,
You might try wood bleach on the affected areas . There is special wood bleaches as well as household laundry type bleach . You could dilute it a bit with water and spray with a hand held spray bottle or dab it on with a rag . Let the bleach dry , then neutralize or wash off with water before you do any sanding .
good luck dusty
Dusty,
Thank you for helpjng. I'll be trying sodium hypocloride which is what women use here in their household chores. Will be telling you what happened soon.
Dusty,
I tried household bleach and oxalic acid. The second choice worked better. I was expecting oxalic acid to be liquid but it was solid and actually quite cheap and easy to find. I tried making a solution with water and with ethilic alcohol. Maybe due to very small pores of peroba the alcoholic solution worked better. I had a bad time though when I sanded the treated areas when everything was dry: I had a terrible nose irritation as soon as the wood dust mixed with the dry acid flew into the air. I'm a lot more cautious now.
Thank you for your help.
Fernando ,
Glad the results were good . I did suggest in post #2 that you wash off and neutralize the bleach before sanding . Man , the first time I found that out , my throat felt like I was in the gas chamber .
dusty
Oxalic Acid is what you need.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Jazzdog,
I'll try to find this acjd here and will also give it a try. Is there any percentage dillution or just straight?
Thank you. Self taught beginners like me have lots to learn.
Maybe it would be helpful to have a more complete name for the oxalic acid?
Oxalic acid (IUPAC name: ethanedioic acid, formula H2C2O4) is a dicarboxylic acid with structure (HOOC)-(COOH). Because of the joining of two carboxyl groups, this is one of the strongest organic acids. The anions of oxalic acid as well as its salts and esters are known as oxalates.
and this iste givs explanations of its uses.
http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/oxalic_acid.html
It is apparently used in leather tanning, so maybe that suggests a source of supply?
Please be careful...maybe check with someone that uses it and Good luck:)
Thank you Rich1107 for your detailed description. I'll be giving you all a feedback as soon as I can try these remedies, i.e. if I can find them around here.
Vey welcome, just hope it helps. Looking forward to hearing how you made out. Good luck:)
Rich1107,I tried household bleach and oxalic acid. The second choice worked better. I was expecting oxalic acid to be liquid but it was solid and actually quite cheap and easy to find. I tried making a solution with water and with ethilic alcohol. Maybe due to very small pores of peroba the alcoholic solution worked better. I had a bad time though when I sanded the treated areas when everything was dry: I had a terrible nose irritation as soon as the wood dust mixed with the dry acid flew into the air. I'm a lot more cautious now.
Thank you for your help.
Ouch! I wish I would have emphasized the need for caution with all of these products. I get sick just from household bleach fumes. Whenever working with these types of products you really need a mask with the proper filters for the specific chemicals being used.
Please be carefull, nothing is worth risking your health over!
Jazzdog,I tried household bleach and oxalic acid. The second choice worked better. I was expecting oxalic acid to be liquid but it was solid and actually quite cheap and easy to find. I tried making a solution with water and with ethilic alcohol. Maybe due to very small pores of peroba the alcoholic solution worked better. I had a bad time though when I sanded the treated areas when everything was dry: I had a terrible nose irritation as soon as the wood dust mixed with the dry acid flew into the air. I'm a lot more cautious now.
Thank you for your help.
Hi Fernando,
Glad things worked out well for you. Thanks for keeping me informed of your progress.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
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