Wood wants to lift when beginning a cut on table saw
wonginva
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
Got a new Metabo table saw and after aligning the blade and fence still having issues with wood want to lift when beginning the cut. I have had several table saws in the past and don’t remember the piece doing that so easily. The spinning of the blade should push the piece downwards on approach? But for some reason, it tries to lift and ride over the top of the teeths. There is no issue with binding yet since the piece is just starting to be cut.
Any thoughts?
Replies
Since the saw is new and maybe came with a blade already mounted...is the blade on backwards?
As I push it starts to ride up and then when it suddenly catches and kicks back a little.
It’s a new dewalt 60 tooth blade I put on.
On larger sheet it starts riding up. But it not binding as there are no burn marks or scratches on the newly cut section.
See no burn marks.
First, try setting your blade a little higher. A general rule of thumb is to have the bottom of the gullets approx. level with the top surface you are cutting. A little higher won't hurt.
Having said that, particularly with the blade set low as when cutting a groove, there will be a tendency for the work piece to climb over the blade. This should not be extreme, however. You should need only slight downward pressure using a shoe type push tool to overcome this. Your feed rate might also be a factor. Make sure you are not trying to push faster than the blade can cut. Also, check to see if the blade is sharp and also check again to make sure the blade is not on backwards.
Check the blade for wobble, make sure there is no burr or crud where the blade mounts. Dial indicator or clamp a block to the table that just touches one tooth, then check each tooth on both sides.
Check fence alignment, allow just a hair more on the outfeed.
Check table alignment with the blade.
Check fence is flat from end to end and plumb when clamped down, long straight edge and square.
Try a different blade, this is a safety issue, worth the price of a new blade.
This may not be your issue but on some weaker home made inserts I’ve made, they flex a little when pressing the piece down as it passes past the blade. I’ve not had kickback or problems that way, but on thinner pieces you can get a little chatter. For general cutting, whether ripping or cross cutting, I tend to prefer the blade being so the gullets are just above the wood. Just a rule of thumb, I don’t know of any scientific reason for it, just that it works better that way on the table saws I’ve used.
It is hard to tell for sure but, your pictures appear to show a blade with negative or 0 degree hook teeth. If that is the case, it is not the best blade for a table saw and could be a contributor to your problem. Make sure you have a positive hook tooth blade. A 40 tooth combination blade is good or alternate bevel for cross cutting and flat top grind for ripping.
Had same problem, scares the crap outa me every time. Fixed it with a new blade of same config as old.... but new, sharp and clean
Well this the the blade I have and its fairly new.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225MM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
It saids its for a table saw. Do you think the blade might be the cause.?
That blade belongs in a chop saw, not at all intended for ripping.
Two questions:
1) Are you holding the stock flat with a push stick as it enters the blade? The piece you show is bowed. Have you tried with the concave surface on the table?
2) Does this happen when you cross cut with a mitre jig/sled?
The 60 tooth blade is better for cross cut but should still rip a piece without the problem you encounter.
Go to the orange store and get a 40 tooth Freud combo blade. Try that. If that doesn’t solve it you have other problems, but then you’ll have a good all purpose blade to use once you sort the problems out.
And the board does look lifted on the table, is that how it lays? Is there another piece under it?
The board is flat. I was just trying to show what it was trying to do when it approaches the blade.
Well, my mitre saw could use a new blade...lol
I second the comments on the blade, that looks like a negative rake. Also, you'll want a combination blade for ripping, which will have a positive rake and will push the stock into the table
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