I’ve only been a member of Knots for a couple of years but it seems there are some members who could use some help in wood jargon. I’m not an expert and can always learn from others but here is some basic information. Please feel free to jump in and correct or add additional information.
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Dimensions: Quarter: as in 4/4 = 1 inch, 8/4 = 2 inch
Board feet: Actually a volume – same as 12 inches by 12 inches by 1 inch or equivalent (144 cubic inches).
Dimension: 1x is really about ¾, 2x is about 1 ½ inch as in 2×4 or about 1 ½ by 3 ½ inches. Dimension lumber is almost always s4s.
Surfacing: s4s is surface 4 faces (sides), s2s is surfaced 2 faces (sides), also s3s but not common.
Hardwood grades: F&S or FAS is first and seconds or 83 1/3 % clear face cutting. Note this is NOT “Clear” grade. Some lumber now is F.E.Q which is First European Quality which for us Yanks means imported. However, FEQ is higher quality than F&S.
RW&L means random widths and lengths. Note an 8 inch hardwood board may be between less than 8 inches. For example, a board 7 ½ wide is sold as 8 inches when calculating board feet.
LF means linear feet without regard to width or thickness.
Tally: A record of the number of pieces and footage by grade. Now when purchasing hardwood, be sure to know whether the price is GROSS tally or NET tally. $2.20 a board foot NET tally is cheaper than $2.00 a board foot GROSS talley.
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This is just a start on the world of “selling wood”. A reputable dealer will sell hardwood graded to NHLA rules.
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Anyone care to jump in and explain plywood? Matching as in booked. Splits, shakes, knots? Rift cut? Flat sawn? Cup & twist? And a thousand other terms.
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Hope this helps clarify some of the jargon. I wish someone had explained these terms to me 50 years ago. LOL
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So come on fellow woodworkers, jump in and don’t worry about “hijacking” this thread!
We all can learn from you.
Replies
Hope this helps clarify some of the jargon
DAMN! .. When ya' bring it home and it 'looks' different?
somebody should start a wiki for woodworking because the problem with posts is that they aren't "sticky" and when you use the search function to find something you invariably get pages of search results through which you need to then comb through to get what you want.
OK, I give, what's a wiki??forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
The easiest way to explain it is to see it in action, go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki
What often gets very confusing is when someone posts regarding a non-flat board and uses incorrect terminology. E.g., they'll say cupped when they mean bowed or crooked (rhymes with cooked). Verbal (or written explanations) of the various misshapes a board can acquire are very confusing. A page with drawings is the most helpful. (Hopefully, this copy from FWW isn't part of the paid site, I couldn't tell). Oh, and for those who don't know, the twisted wood is said to be in wind (rhymes with bind).
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forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
As wood dries and ages,...
Even after it is dried and aged, when you cut wood, stresses relax and a board can twist, cup, or bow again. One should cut to rough size, let the wood again stabilize and then recut to a closer final size. Sometimes, the wood will still be relaxing and may ruin the final size. Forgot the term for this type of wood but it is known for causing kickback when a kerf closes. Maybe some of the experts can help out on the proper term for this condition of wood. I remember it is suspected of having something to do with the conditons when it is growing but I'm not sure.
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
I think the term you're looking for is "reaction wood." Nasty stuff when it meets the table saw.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
81 tree & All ,
Treehouse , when you speak of hardwoods and of soft woods the terminology such as 1X changes as well as the grading standards .
The lumber that binds up when you rip it is now often called reaction wood , I was told many years ago it was called timber bound . Perhaps it is pre loaded with stress from growing conditions . Other lumber challenges include cell collapse and case hardening may be caused from the drying process .Wood can be a very un forgiving medium .
As far as plywoods go there are core types and grades as well as veneer face and back grades . Such as 3/4 " Birch ply may have a D veneer core and a C face and a #3 back and so on .
Plain Sliced is usually Book Matched , Rift or Q Sawn is just that , usually laid up in a Book matched fashion . Rotary cut is very common and Whole piece face (WPF) is rotary cut , there is split face rotary cut as well .
There is Domestic and Import available in most species . Many of the imports are laid up in metric , such as 5.2 mm is a common size of what we would call 1/4". IMO the imports skin can be way thin .
Each species may have it's own terminology and characteristics i.e. VG Fir , Knotty Pine , Birdseye Maple , Even Tone Plain Sliced Oak .
I had the opportunity to tour a plywood mill and observe the entire process , and to me slicing veneer core from steam soaked logs was incredible to see . They took logs about 18" and chucked them up on a veneer lathe and sliced it down to what looked like a fence post about 5 or 6 " diameter in like 10 seconds . The peeler core then had the 4 edges sliced off to make what are called Moon rails and they got a 4 X 4 from the center , with little or no waste .
The veneer was sent through a dryer and seamed together before being laid up into sheets . The presses were about the size of a full size van , pressure and some heat cured the glue .
gee , I sort of feel like Bubba on Forest Gump .
regards dusty
Edited 1/22/2006 11:10 am ET by notDusty
Thanks for the additional inputs. My hardwood dealer now sells plywood rated A-1 rather than A-A and A-B rather than A-2. He explained that is the European method of grading. Have you been told the same thing?
Also I can buy plywood 48x96 in 5 ply or 50x50 in 7 ply. Have not tried to buy 9 ply birch in years and don't know if it is even still available.
Also plywood can be purchased prefinished.
Poplar can also be purchased prefinished and even with dados for drawer bottoms. The widths vary from 4 to I think 9 or 11 inches.
It is amazing what is out there. If others know of some specialty items, jump in. I could sure learn more! LOL
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
Yes , A 1 is the better or best grade now a days . An A face and a # 1 back . Just like B 3 or C 3 both very common in the shop grades of Birch and Maple . 9 ply domestic is scarce as of late , States Industries plywood mills was a major producer at one time . I have never heard of 50" X 50" but 60 X 60 " is common for Baltic Birch at one time also known as Fin ply . That was perhaps the only product I have ever held in my hands that was stamped made in USSR .
dusty
Er, typing problem. Yes, 60x60 is correct.
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
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