Does anybody have advice or insight in reference to fastening and attaching custom built 2x wood frame-plywood base 2-tier shelving in a 2003′ Ford Econoline work van? My shelves are already constructed and in place-I have a 2 tiered wood shelving unit 8’ft long x 4’ft high. the shelving unit is located on the drivers side . I temporarily fastened the shelving unit to the inner wall panel frame using 2 sets of nylon ratchet clamps placed at each end of the shelving unit. This just won’t do for the long term though!! Any help or advice is GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank You! Chipper email- [email protected]
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Replies
Shim where necessary, and use sheet metal screws.
where do people usually tie the shelving framing in with sheet metal screws (fastening points)? through the floor, top, or sides of van. will they strip[ out with all of the weight on shelving? Can't i just bolt them to the gas tank?
Ditto what Forestgirl said -=- screw (or bolt) to the ribs.
And no, I don't know if this is strong enough -- but it's the only place where you can attach something.
Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.
The things that would get the supports stripped off would be movement and torque (and of course bolts that are too small -- I'm assuming your smarter than that). You need one row of fasteners to be up pretty high to counteract the potential torque of the top trying to fall over. Make sure the shelf unit is snugged up tight to the supports so that there is no movement whatsover when you try to shake it.
Gas tank???? Surely you jest.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Chipper, I don't know what the inside of the 2003 vans look like, but our 1984 Chevy cargo van had upright "ribs" (2 or 3?) down the length of the sides, and they had a couple of 1/4" holes predrilled in them. When we bought the van, it had heavy-duty metal shelving with electrical contracting supplies piled up. They were fastened to those ribs.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Run 1x3 stock horizontal on the ribs (two or three should do). Fasten them to the ribs. Then you can fasten your shelves to the 1x3.
You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
I own a 2001 F350 van. I ordered it w/ the interior panel package for noise and insulation and when I got it it had come with the cargo rails attatched to the sides. This being my dream van, I had designs on a bulkhead w/ door and removable modular cabinets w/ locking doors. This was similar to what I did in my '89 Ford F250. The beauty if my new system is that I fashioned steel hook-brackets to the backs of the contour fitting cabinets allowing for easy removal when more space is needed. When fully loaded, I have the majority of all my tools and a large assortment of glues, fasteners, misc., misc., misc., at my disposal all the time. The bulkhead w/ door provides a cockpit environment which keeps the heat in and most of the noise out.
Enough rambling, my point is you can get these horiz. rails installed and this could provide the mounting platform you desire. Trick it out, your vehicle and the stuff you pull out of it are the first things your clients see when you pull up!
Let me know if you want to see pictures. Its helped me stay organized!
Phil
Hi Phil
I'm about to get my first POS van. I really don't want to give up my truck just yet. Anyway, I'd like pic.s of your van storage system if you could post them.
Thanks
Dan
Edited 12/11/2003 11:07:49 AM ET by Dan
Chipper, to prevent the two units from moving away from the van's side panels, add a sheet of 3/8" plyacross their tops and fastened with angled clips or angle iron. Stein
I have an 89 GM van all my shelves and compressor bin are made of 3/4 ply and have a 3 inch ply upstand at the top which is screwed to the vertical panel supports with No 12 sheet metal screws .I sandwich some sill plate gasket between to stop any squeeking.The van has a 3/4 ply floor so the shelves are screwed to that as well.That has worked for me since '92 .only removing them every two years for rust proofing spray.It is essential to rust spray between the side panels and the wheel arches so consider that when designing the interior
Thank you everybody for your input! I like the concept of removable shelving, gaskets to cushion and sound control, plywood sub-base floor, and angle iron, & furring strips packers. A culmination of many "Great Minds" is greatly APPRECIATED!! THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!!! & THANK YOU!!!! Chipper 11/6
You can get a blind nut rivet. If you never heard of them here is url to read about them.
http://www.riveter.com/english/pages/whatsanutrivet.html
A pal of mine with two VW Transporters (1-tonne steel panel vans) uses a combination of blind nut rivets into the ribs and angle brackets bolted through the floor to secure his welded ally shelving. It seems to work well. He replaces his vans every three years and this is the third set he's had on this system. He repairs street sweepers so they are always full of heavy spare parts.
Having read a couple of others I've just been over to remind myself how my pal's vans are set up. The blind nut rivets are fastened into the faces of the ribs (the ribs aren't too deep) but at three or four points up the side of the van and a couple of points in the roof area. That plus the bolted through base bracket and the built-in steel load barrier across the van behind the front seats (something my next van is going to have) makes it pretty good in accidents - and he tells me he has survived a couple. After the last one he riveted metal plates into the front ends of all the frames above safety barrier height.
Scrit
Edited 11/6/2003 6:51:33 AM ET by Scrit
How ever you chose to fasten things up, down or together use the side of the rib and not the face. Many times stronger doing it this way.
I you have an accident the shelves will tear loose and they (shelves and stock) will try to end up in your lap.
I learned this on my 1st van and every thing was face mounted.
If you use the rib sides you can thru bolt.(G5 - 1/4-20's, fender washers and nylocks) Also I mortized my shelves to fit the ribs and used off the shelf mounting hardware.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
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