Replies

1. 
   Fiddler | Sep 06, 2005 03:52am | #1

   Hi Doc. Refer to the Workbench Book by Scott Landis - Taunton Press. Get it from your local liabrary or this website. I purchased solid maple cabinet doors from a building products recycler, ripped them to thickness (2 1/4" and laminated them. Total cost about $60 CAD. I then bought dimension maple only for the aprons and ends. Back apron behind tool tray is just 1X5X8. I've had the bench for 2+ years and have had no problems with expansion however I live in quite a dry climate.

2. 
   BG | Sep 06, 2005 02:27pm | #2

   Doc,
   There are no hard and fast rules for workbenches, whatever pleases you and your budget and holds stock securely for working. Breadboard ends can be tied into the front apron with either T&G or dovetails and, if glued in the front, allows the top to expand and contract while the ends stay flush to the front. A back apron is an option, with or without a tool tray. Make sure you acquire the vises before construction...they need to be figured in to the aprons and allowed for with the legs.
   The expansion issue is somewhat relative to your particular environment. My top is maple (24")and we have dry winters with 10 or so days in the summer above 90 and humid....my bench top moves about 1/4". Your environment could cause a movement of 1/1/4"...but I wouldn't worry about it if my front apron stays flush with the ends.

   
   

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   Edited 9/6/2005 9:41 am ET by BG

3. 
   KeithNewton | Sep 06, 2005 04:09pm | #3

   Doc. You actually ask the wrong question. It would have read, "What does maple sell for on your planet, it is $9.50 here?"

   My question is what planet are you on? Since you have not filled out any information in you profile, someone might be able to tell you where to get maple for $2 if we knew that.

4. 
   BarryO | Sep 07, 2005 01:22am | #4

   That design in Tools and Shops has no back apron.

   Where are you.  Maple ain't that expensive here (Pac NW).  Decent cherry, OTOH, costs and arm and a leg.  'all depends on local supply, I guess.

1. 
   Doc | Sep 07, 2005 04:43am | #5

   Thanks for all of the replies.  I live in northwestern Minnesota.  There is only one hardwood dealer in town.  It's absolute flat prairie.  I've been trying to locate some maple from some of the loggers in northern Minnesota, where I used to live, but haven't had much luck.  I've found some 4/4, but nobody has 8/4.  Everyone I've asked says "we never cut 8/4", so I guess I'll keep searching.  My other thought is some of the old Douglas Fir that is around here from salvaged barns.  I know our old family barn is solid Doug Fir, from the beams, to the studs, to the tongue and groove flooring in the loft.  I see salvaged Doug Fir from barns in the classifieds quite often.  The price is right, so that might be a better choice for my first attempt at a bench. 

   So, back to my original question, I'm thinking that a tool tray in the back that sits in a slot, similar to panels in doors, should allow for expansion.  I would prefer to have the apron be on all four sides, so that might be my best bet.  I like the plan that Lee Valley sells, so that might be a good guide for my first bench.  Any thoughts on vises?  I would like to go with the traditional tail and shoulder vise, but that might not be as practical for a weekend warrior.  Any thoughts?  Thanks again in advance.

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 07, 2005 04:53am | #6

   Doug Fir is a wonderfull wood AS long as you do NOT try to stain it! AND want a even finish..

2. 
   BarryO | Sep 07, 2005 08:07pm | #7

   I'm lucky I guess. Retail prices for 8/4 soft maple here is $3.75, and $5.95 for hard maple.

   Old DF might not be too bad.  New DF wouldn't be nearly as good.  The growth rings per inch I find in the old timbers around here are incredible, and it is much harder than the new-growth DF you find in the lumberyards.

3. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 08, 2005 04:18pm | #9

   I would not hesitate a second to build a bench out of Doug fir -- assuming you can lay your hands on a supply of old growth, straight grained stuff. If you can manage a trip to MSP, there are lots of yards that sell hard maple for way less than $9.50 bf.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   Doc | Sep 09, 2005 12:17pm | #11

   We go to MSP a couple times a year, as my fiance is from there, but I don't know my way around very well.  Could you recommend some lumber dealers there?  Woodcraft is the only store I've been to while visiting the Minneapolis area.  I may still end up going with some old salvaged lumber for my first bench, but would still like to know where I can get maple at an affordable price.  Thanks.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 11, 2005 07:29pm | #13

   I buy most of my stuff from either Youngblood or Lake Elmo Hardwood.They will sell to anybody, but if you are going to buy in any quantity, it would be worth your while to play the contractor game, and open an account -- which will get you into their discount structure, which can be a pretty substantial savings.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

2. 
   Doc | Sep 12, 2005 12:16pm | #14

   Thanks so much for the tip.  I don't get to the Cities very often, but I will definetely try to swing into one of the places on my next trip down.  Thanks again.

4. 
   ufduh | Sep 09, 2005 12:18am | #10

   I just finished a work bench using old doug fir for the top and the legs . I salvaged the roof joists from an addition from my 1930s vintage house so the material measured about 2.125 by 4 with a rough surface. I ended up with a top about 3 inches thick. Makes a nice bench material. If you can get this material cheep or for free it beats paying for new maple. Good luckTroy

5. 
   pqken | Sep 09, 2005 03:27pm | #12

   I made a large Doug Fir workbench (2600mmx900mmx110mm thick). I looked at Landis' book to figure out what I'd need and give me ideas. Some might say Doug Fir is too soft but I don't work into the bench. Nor do I use it as a chopping block, that's on the floor. I'll use a scrap underneath when mortising or paring so I don't dent or cut up the surface. I put in a tail and end vise, dog holes, and hold downs. I don't use all these everyday but they're there when I do need them. My advice is to put what you can into it, you never know when you'll use them.

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 12, 2005 06:48pm | #15

   Some might say Doug Fir is too soft but I don't work into the bench ???Hardly.. Straigh grained is wonderful wood.. Hell, I made Cabin Boat using ALOT of it.. Back in 1964? or so.. I forget.. Mostly White oak and Fir.. 22 foot? (About that) inbord from plans... STILL FLOATS!

5. 
   daveinnh | Sep 08, 2005 04:21am | #8

   My dad and I built one from the plans in the back of Landis' book from Taunton some 8 years ago.  Although we used maple for the top (bought 6/4, ripped and Gorilla-glued to result in a 2" top), I'd say any close-grained hardwood (birch, beech) would do.