Replies

1. 
   swenson | Feb 29, 2012 04:40pm | #1

   One way would be to glue the top to the MDF and allowing a bit of the top to overhang the front and the back.  Then using a router with a straight bit with a pattern bearing, rout the edge flush using the MDF as the pattern.  Since you only have 1/4 inch too much you would only have about 1/8 to remove on the front and back and could do it in one or two passes.

   Another way is to build a guide for the circular saw by gluing and or screwing a fence down the middle of a piece of plywood or mdf or hardboard and then running the circular saw down along the right side against the fence, cutting off the base.  Now you have a jig with an edge that is exactly as wide as the saw will cut .  Mark the start and end of the cut you want to make, line up the cut edge of the jig with the marks and slide the saw down along the fence as you cut.  As long as you keep the saw against the fence and don't allow it to wander away from the fence you will cut right along the edge of the jig.  After you make the jig, write "CUT" on the right side of the base and "CLAMP" on the left side of the base.  The wider the left side is the better.  Too narrow and you could bump into the clamps holding the jig to the work piece with the overhanging saw parts.

   Hope this helps some.

   Take care, be safe.

1. 
   roc | Feb 29, 2012 07:41pm | #3

   Work Bench Top Question.

   This top sounds questionable.

   :   )

   Swenson,

   What do ya think ?  Is this a sound  combination ?

   I am picturing a structure like a bimetallic strip 

   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimetalic_strips

   How, in other words, is this top going to act when the top red oak layer absorbs moisture and expands and the particle board stuff does not (as much) ?

   Cup time or what ?

   Maybe this top does not have to be all that flat for the work intended ( no hand planing, or using as a flat reference etc. ).

   AaaaaaaaaaahhhDn'O

   PS I'm vot'in for a solid wood top and use that particle stuff for . . .

   . . . for . . .

   . . .  well I can't think of a use for it but anyway . . .

1. 
   swenson | Mar 01, 2012 01:42am | #4

   roc

   You hit the nail on the head.  I wasn't doing the poster any favors by being kind.  Nothing wrong with a first bench top out of 2 layers of plywood or 2 layers of MDF but gluing the oak to the MDF is not a good idea.  The oak top could make a nice table and the MDF could be a first bench top.  Together they spell trouble.  When he gets a table saw the oak table could be an outfeed and the MDF bench could hold all the crap I now put on the bandsaw and the table saw and the router table and the stuff i remove from the tablesaw and put on the jointer when I have to saw something.  You always need flat places to pile up parts and hardware and tools in use and junk.

   I'm not a dead flat junkie except for water stones and such, but this MDF/oak combo is a bad idea.  Besides if he had a lot of trouble with the oak glue up, the back is most likely not flat enough to glue down anyway.  But it's all a learning experience for him, I wish him well.

1. 
   Newwoodsman | Mar 08, 2012 09:56pm | #11

   Clamping on the edge

   Well, you live and learn.  Wish I had consulted the experts on this forum before I dove right in.    I just used TiteBond and tried to clamp the top as tightly as I could as you can see by the picture.  Not quite sure wha to expect but time will tell how this bench treats me.  It's all done now except for drilling the dog holes and installing the vise hardware.  It sure looks good, though.  Can't help but feel a surge of pride in the thing.  I have to keep telling myself 'It's only a work bench, not a piece of furniture'. Thanks to everyone for taking the time to offer your opinions for which I remain very grateful.

   My first (second, after the bench) real furniture project will be a cherry cabinet the plans for which I saw on the Fine Woodworking site.  I hope to think it out thoroughly and consult the experts at the slightest question.

   gjw

   
2. 
   RalphBarker | Mar 02, 2012 12:06pm | #5

   Shades of . . .

    . . . the proverbial irresistable force meeting the immovable object.

   Assuming the oak has been ripped to allow face-gluing the resulting strips, let's say 1.5" wide, so the top of the bench is edge grain, I could see some justification for using an MDF base for increased weight, stability, vibration deadening, etc. But, the method of attachment should be with screws through elongated holes, so as to allow the oak to move, or some similar plan.

   BTW, MDF can be useful for things like jigs, router-table tops, etc.  ;-)

1. 
   roc | Mar 02, 2012 09:49pm | #7

   Aaaaaaaaaa D Know

    >BTW, MDF can be useful for things like jigs, router-table tops, etc.  ;-)<

   I have used that partically stuff for jigs before and have had the experience of where ever there is a screw it distorts the other side causing a bump or a bow.  Not a lot but enough to not be flat or to go out of square.

   Plywood doesn't tend to do this especially the good stuff.

   But then you know me . . . all magnifying glasses and micrometers; not an easy going journey is my woodworking.

1. 
   RalphBarker | Mar 03, 2012 12:08pm | #8

   MDF jigs and screws

   True, MDF doesn't like wood screws, or even threaded inserts. But, glue works OK.

   I also like phenolic ply for jigs, particularly if a durable slickery surface is called for:

   View Image

2. 
   Newwoodsman | Mar 08, 2012 09:14pm | #9

   Saw Jig

   Thanks.  That worked pretty well.  I used clamps to secure the fence. 

2. 
   swenson | Feb 29, 2012 05:43pm | #2

   Clamps

   I forgot you had a clamp question.

   Sooner or later you will need some pipe clamps.  Why not sooner?  With six 48 inch clamps you can gang together three 96 inch clamps by interlocking the tail clamps in the middle, after rotating them to face each other, and putting the head clamps on each end of the table.  See picture number 1.

   You could buy just three clamp sets, one set has one head and one tail,  and six 48 inch black pipes threaded on both ends, and three connectors.  See picture number two.  Then you take three pipes with head clamps and three pipes with tail clamps and attach them to each other with the threaded connectors in the middle.  The picture is kinda dark and the pipes are not the same lengths as my example but you can just see the connectors between pipe lengths.  Unscrew the connectors for storage.  Move a tail clamp to a pipe with a head clamp when you need a forty inch clamp.

   You could have three black pipes cut and threaded to make 62 inch clamps, being sure to allow several inches more for the head and tail fixtures.  Then you would have to store really long clamps.

   There are clamps that are used for edge clamping but they cost more than the pipe clamp solution and you need a few of them.

   There is a way to clamp an F clamp to the table ends and use wedges between the edging and the F clamp bar but I've never tried that.

   
1. 
   RalphBarker | Mar 02, 2012 12:08pm | #6

   Clamps

   A fella (or, gal) can't have too many of 'em.  ;-)

2. 
   Newwoodsman | Mar 08, 2012 09:16pm | #10

   Clamps

   Thanks.  I borrowed some pipe clamps and joined a couple together just as you described.  Worked great!  Pipe clamps are definitely on my shopping list.

3. 
   Frozen | Mar 19, 2012 02:05pm | #12

   Kerf the MDF if movement becomes an issue.

   As long as you can attach the top to the base securely, kerfing the underside in the same direction as the wood grain will minimize the stresses in the top.