Hi. I’d like to tap into the collective wisdom here and would appreciate any input. I’m getting ready to “upgrade” from my mdf-top bench to a solid wood top. Lacking power tools, assembly space, and time, I’d like to get a laminated countertop maple slab for the top. My local lumberyard sells one for a pretty good price (24″ x 60″ x 1.5″ for $150). I’ve been reading through messages here and it seems people usually consider 2.5 to 3″ the minimum thickness.
Some background: I’m a semi-neander and work mostly with handtools, including dimensioning stock, chopping mortises, etc. I’m a student, and cost is an issue. Portability (knocking down, weight) is also desirable.
I’ve got some 12/4 alder around to make the legs. Stretchers will probably be 2×6 douglas fir. So the base should come out being pretty beefy. I’ll use my old Record 52 quick-release front vise, so that should add some pounds.
So here are the questions:
1) What do you guys think about 1.5″ top thickness? A bit flimsy for handplaning?
2) The nearest Woodcraft (about 100 miles) sells a 1.75″ thick slab, which would end up, with tranportation, being about $100 more. Would this be a worthwhile upgrade?
3) I like the idea of using tusk tenons for the front and back stretchers. Would this be as robust as the more common bolted mortises and tenons.
4) As I’m planning on eliminating my end vise (so I can move that end closer to the wall), does anyone here work without an end vise? Do you feel like you’re missing much?
Lots of questions. Thanks for reading this far. I’d appreciate ANY inputs, and I promise to post pictures when this is done…
Replies
My bench top is about 1-5/8" thick hard maple and it's fine. Not sure all materials will be strong enough at that thickness, but if properly supported should be ok. Did you consider using any of that 12/4" alder for the top and choosing something else for legs?
5418,
I think your plans sound pretty good but as I read your post my own situation came to mind and I thought I'd share some thoughts.
I have an end vise (cheap pony) which is invaluable but I too have a space constraint on that end of the bench....wish I had a shoulder vise so I could move the stock more toward the left and avoid worrying about hitting anything with the plane....not a big deal but when using the jointer. Also, I like to joint on top of the bench and I use the end vise to hold a wood clamp that is holding the stock securly.
Assuming your stretchers will be close the the base, some racking can occur especially while working in the front vise position. I saw a design a while back that included a long front apron that also attached to the legs..it was called a joiners bench.
Lastly, I put a drawer under my bench...when space is tight...it's really great for all the measuring tools to keep them out of harms way. Good luck
Edited 9/27/2005 6:18 am ET by BG
About 30 years ago, I was in a similar position -- poor and pretty much hand-tools only. I decided to build myself a "temporary" workbench, so I got 20 2X4s and drilled each with a template in 5 places through the narrow dimension. Got some threaded rod and bolted/glued them all together after countersinking the outermost 2 boards. Then I smoothed it out with a scrub plane I converted from an old wooden plane. I made some legs, with crossmembers to support the top, out of pinned M&Td 4X4s. Attached the top with lag bolts. I ended up with a nice, strong (and HEAVY) bench almost 8' long and 3" thick. Thirty years later, I'm still using only that bench, having added some maple trim on the front and ends to cover the bolt holes and provide nice, hard square corners, a store-bought vice and a bunch of 3/4" holes in various locations along the top and front to accomodate Veritas "Bench Dogs". Maybe someday, I'll replace it -- but maybe not. Ask me again in 30 more years. ;-)
Hi Mike,Did you do any surfacing before gluing up the 2x4's for the top, or did you glue up the sides directly from the lumberyard and depend on the rod/bolt system to pull everything together tight? Also, did you remove the rods after the glue is dry? This sounds a lot more straightforward than clamping the boards a few at a time. How long did it take you to make the top. I'd like to make it myself out of fir but have read some scary stories about the process.-w
Don't forget that what was sold as 2X4 30 years ago almost can't be bought now, certainly not at home depot. What is sold at home depot now wouldn't have been used to sticker lumber 30 years ago.
How old ARE you?? lol Just reminded me of something my dad would say...
Did you do any surfacing before gluing up the 2x4's for the top, or did you glue up the sides directly from the lumberyard and depend on the rod/bolt system to pull everything together tight?
No surfacing prior to gluing. I just selected them from a new bundle so they were pretty straight and flat and worked them up right away before they had a chance to warp, twist, bend, etc. as construction-grade lumber is likely to do. I relied on the rods/bolts to pull them together. The drilling jig (just a scrap of 2X with 5 holes) helped line up the holes so the 2X4s were pretty well lined up. (You will need to drill a little oversize, or you'll never get the wood over all 5 rods at once. A drill press would be a big help in squaring up the holes, but I didn't have one then, so I just made sure the holes in the jig were as square as I could get 'em.)
Also, did you remove the rods after the glue is dry?
Nope. (If I had to do it over again, I'd plan the dog holes prior to drilling. As it happens, one of the rods interferred a bit with one of my dog holes requiring some tedious filing.) I figured leaving them in would add strength down the road even if the glue failed or the wood tried to move.
This sounds a lot more straightforward than clamping the boards a few at a time. How long did it take you to make the top.
A couple of hours to put it together, a couple of hours to level the top. I never bothered to level the bottom. Putting the maple banding around the top a few years ago was the most time-consuming part of the process since I worked up some pretty joints just to make it look a bit nicer. If I was doing it again today, I'd run the joined top over to my pal at the mill and have him run it through his surface sander just to smooth it out more.
I'd like to make it myself out of fir but have read some scary stories about the process.
Don't know what could be scarry about it. I initially thought it might move around a bit after it dried some, but it didn't really -- I guess due to having all the boards laminated together took care of that. Also, since it's "only 2X4s" and not a cabinet-grade workbench, I'm not so squeamish doing heavy or messy work on it, having my wife do stained glass & finishing on it, etc. The only drawback is that there is no tail vise on mine, but that's because I use it integral to a radial arm saw table on one end and it's up against a wall on the other. So I make due with a Veritas Wonder Dog (a bench dog that incorporates a screw clamp.) Still, if only . . . .
Hi Mike. Another question for you if you're still following this thread. You've inspired me to make the bench top myself. Wouldn't leaving the rod there after glue-up interfere with the cross-grain expansion/contraction? Have you noticed any problems on your bench?
I have had no trouble from leaving the rods in. I did notice things were a bit loose one time years ago, from wood contraction I suppose, and I cranked them down tight again. Haven't touched them since. I figured that leaving them in would help hold the bench tight and prevent cracks from opening up between the boards even if any of the glue joints failed after time/heavy use.
BTW, my bench looks pretty much like the photo posted by Lydensden, but not nearly as nice! (I envy his tail vice.) Although M/T joints would be much nicer, I just used lag bolts to attach the top to the legs, so it comes apart easily and quickly. (I built this for a cheap, quick bench. I had no idea that I'd be using it forever or I'd have used nicer joinery for the frame.) Each leg is cut out to allow a section about 1 1/2" thick it to extend up along the side of the bench almost to the top. This part is screwed to the top horizontally and is covered by the apron board. I also put a few bolts in the stretchers to hold the top down on them. I attached the apron with screws so I can disassemble it. Also, my dog holes are round since they were added years after the bench was done and I didn't want to screw around with chopping square holes. The round holes work just fine for me and I think they are stronger since they are each completely within a single 2X4. Also, Veritas makes a holdfast that tightens with a knob on the top of the post which I use a lot. It also takes a 3/4" round hole. I also added a tool well in the back that is nice in some ways, but sure gathers a lot of shavings, dust, etc.
Dang Mike, I thought I was the only one out here with a soft bench. I used two 24" laminated beams to get a top 5 1/2"x7'x4'. Only one joint to make that way. Like you said, heavy.
Steve
I have my 'fancy' bench made od Purpleheart.. Which I never use.. I think the top is about 3 inches thick..
My Working benches are Oak legs/frame and 'DROP IN' 3/4 MDF.. I use two thicknesses of 3/4 inch.. Just lays there( well, a few hidden screws ) Deep so I can't mess up a blade.. One is Maple sticks held together with threaded rod and hardware..
If you are on a budget.. Stick with MDF.. Just sand off, flip it over and ya got a NEW bench!
I will probably get flack on this one but 1.5 inch thickness should be more than Ok for most work.. Well, unless ya a purest...
Read this first before buying the maple slab.
http://www.terraclavis.com/bws/beginners.htm
Great post! nOT SURE i BELIEVED all o it but I'll think on it a bit..
What is not to be believed? Thr Purpleheart bench?It is made of Purpleheart that was purchased as recycled wood from a old factory that was torn down. It just looked brown when I got it and was used as a base for a very large woodworking machine tool. As I remember the sticks were about 8 inches thick (top to bottom) and about 4 inches thick (wide). They were tongue and grooved together and used no metal fasteners (that I found). The 'floor' was surrounded by a welded steel 'L' that was attached to the building structure. (The wood just was the 'filler' inside of the 'L' frame) The wood was worn because of years of traffic but in almost new condition. The only holes in the wood were where the machine was bolted to the main structure and some impressions from machine base. The machine was already removed so I have no idea what it was.All of the machine tools were mounted this way. If fact the entire floor in this very large multi story building was made of it (I think) but the other parts of the floor were made in squares like a butcher block. 6x6 or 8x8..? Well, just big blocks that sat there.. And YES you hardly ever saw a seam between the blocks.I knew the owner of the company that was tearing the building down. I know how the wood I got was used because I had to take it apart and haul it outside by myself... The price was just the cost of having it delivered. $100.00 or so but that was when $100.00 was real money...
But not bad for a 20 by 20 foot hunk of floor.I thought it was oak or something until I had it home and started to cut it up into something..
Hi Will, I know that at least one of the Caterpilller machine shops around Peoria, IL has a floor like that. First time I'd ever seen such a thing. After walking on the cement all day, those wood blocks were a joy stand on.
Steve
I made the workbench Robert linked to in reply #12 about a yeart ago. While I did get a little bit of twist as I laminated up the top one 2X4 at a time, it was not too bad. One corner of the bench curled up maybe 3/8 inch.
The project was initiated as something to use my new LN #7 jointer on, and it indeed got a workout getting the top flat, but it was worth the effort. I drilled four rows of 3/4" holes to accomodate LV bench dogs and installed two LV front vises.
The bench is one strong puppy and is heavy as h*ll. I installed the top to the frame with metal "L" brackets and screws for easy removal in case I ever need to move it.
Like another poster, I treat the top pretty hard and think nothing of doing finishing work on the thing. Stain and finish drippings don't bother me a bit. Every once in a while I'll go over the top with my #41/2 smoother and clean it up.
Fact is, I don't think I could ever do real woodwork on some of the gorgeous, almost furniture grade benches I've seen in FWW and other places.
Chris
I made my workbench out of doug fir 2x's. Laminated top w/aprons, 4x4 legs drawn together w/ 2x6 stretchers through m&t'd & wedged (not glued).The top is atatched with 3/4x3/4x3/4 tennons on top of the legs that go into mortises underneath the top (no glue). I built a cabinet that slides into the empty space below the bench. The whole thing can be easily taken apart using only a hammer to knock out the wedges and it is very stout. the top is 2'x 5' about 2 1/2" thick. I'll try to post a picture of it later.
here's the foto of my fir bench. Hope this helps.
Hi,
I just want to end my comments regarding the use of an end vise. I was fortunate to get my hands on a workbench top with wooden front and 'European style'end vise. I have used it now for two years and I find myself using the end vise probably more than the front vise. The end vise is very useful for clamping larger panels,long pieces and very thin pieces. I find that the support from the top means than light clamping is sufficient. I use it with hand tools and electric tools. My vote: keep the end vise if possible.
>> and I promise to post pictures when this is done...
Following up on my promise: here's the bench, after 2 months of planning and building.
Top: I ended up buying a 1 3/4" laminated maple top, due to several reasons including time and limited assembly space. (What you see is pretty much half of my shop. The other side is taken by a bandsaw and a lathe.)
Base: Legs are 12/4 alder. Stretchers are 6/4 soft maple, 5" wide for the long ones and 3" for the short ones. End pieces are drawbored and pegged without glue. The long stretchers are M&T and bolted to the end pieces, and rabbeted for the shelf. The milk paint is topped with an oil/varnish/turpentine blend. (Milk paint is messy!)
Thanks everyone for the advice, if you're still around after the new Knots :)
Anyone in SoCal wants my old bench?
Nice bench and Baaaaad looking dog, no one will steal that thing!!
Steve
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