Replies

1. 
   Howard_Acheson | Mar 04, 2000 06:08pm | #1

   *
   Leaving it unfinished is a viable option. If however, you want to have some finish you should use something that is easily renewable. Watco clear--or make your own from equal parts of varnish, linseed oil and mineral spirits--works well. Apply, let soak in, wipe dry, let dry overnight and do it again the following day. Let it dry 48 hours and apply a coat of paste wax using 0000 steel wool. This finish will make it easier to remove glue drops and add some stain protection.

   To renew, periodically, use a cabinet scraper to remove glue/paint and then wipe using 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits. This disolves the wax and leaves a clean surface. Apply another coat of Watco and rewax.

   Just be careful. If you make it too nice, you won't want to use it.

1. 
   CStanford_ | Mar 04, 2000 10:11pm | #2

   *Is your workshop insulated, heated and cooled? If not, you'll probably want to get a film finish of some kind on the bench to minimize seasonal shrinking and swelling. If your shop has climate control, I think Watco plus three coats of Myland's wax would be great. I'd go 5 to 7 coats of Watco which is a little heavier than normal. You MUST buff all excess oil from each coat very, very thoroughly. You don't want puddles of oil to dry on the surface. The idea is to get as much oil to absorb into the wood as it can hold without having it pool on the surface or bleed back to the surface.

1. 
   Howard_Acheson | Mar 05, 2000 07:39pm | #3

   *Just a couple of points. First, having temperature/humidity control will add to the moisture content swings particularly in northern areas. The already low winter humidity will be even further lowered by heating the air.However, if the bench was properly built, seasonal variations should have been taken into account and expansion and contraction would not be a problem. My bench is maple and expands in width over 1/8" between summer and winter. No problem at all.

1. 
   Rudy_B | Mar 07, 2000 09:44am | #4

   *re: bench expansion - an 1/8" in width, really? I live near Detroit and the bench top lamination is 22"x60", with (3) 3/8" threaded rods through it cinched real tight. I think 1/8" will pop something somewhere...should I be worried???

1. 
   Howard_Acheson | Mar 07, 2000 06:38pm | #5

   *Rudy, yes, it expands 1/8". I have breadboard ends on it and I cut them to length during the summer. During the winter the ends are 1/8" long.As far as through bolts go, I do not think they are necessary. Modern glues are more than enough to keep the laminations together.

2. 
   Howard_Acheson | Mar 07, 2000 06:41pm | #6

   *Meant to add Rudy, fir is very soft (my bench is hard maple) and if you tighten up on the rods during the winter, I would expect that the nuts and washers will be pulled into the wood during the summer.

3. 
   Rex_Kolste | Apr 27, 2000 04:19am | #7

   *Need suggestions on finishing bird's-eye maple; want to leave it as natural, (light), as possible but at the same time want the "bird's-eye" markings to stand out as much as possible.

4. 
   Howard_Acheson | Apr 27, 2000 03:42pm | #8

   *Two things. First, get Jeff Jewett's new book "Great Wood Finishes". He uses birds eye maple as one of his examples of how to finish. Second, repost this as a new subject and more folks will pay attention to it.

5. 
   Harvey_Graham | Jun 20, 2000 06:26am | #9

   *We just purchased a pine table with breadboard ends from a local wood worker. I am aware that the ends should be free to move so that the top can expand and contract with changes in humidity. In this case the craftsmanship be not be quite perfect, as there are paper thick gaps between the ends and the remainder of the top. My question is, will a varnish or some such finish soak down into the gaps and prevent future movement? Should I stick to a wax of some mature?Any thoughts appreciated.Thank you.