What would be some recommendations for a workbench top finish. I have an old bowling alley that I am flattening now.
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Replies
I have had none on mine for 10 years, just flatten and scrape as needed. Got that from Krenovs books. It is easier to keep up than any finish.
traditionally the finish for workbenches is a mixture of 50% Boiled Linseed Oil and 50% Turpentine
Who's tradition? Most never had any finish at all.
Right Napie. Its the tradition of some non-hand tool woodworker who wrote an article for FWW 20 years ago. I oiled my bench having similarly read that article, and it was nice that the white glue I never used didn't stick to it. The problem was that is was slippery as heck! I've since reflattened my bench. The oil isn't gone, but the surface has a lot more friction, which I like.
If you use your bench to impress people do whatever you want. If you use it for hand planing, I recommend not finishing your bench at all.
Adam
Would those be the same people who sharpen their tools with expensive sandpaper and even more expensive jigs, ($60 grinder and grandpa's oil stones here). Or the ones who buy the lattest router jig/bits vs. getting a good dovetail saw and some practice. Just some personal peeves.
Napie,No. Those aren't the same people. I have no problem with folks who think router jigs are the only way to cut dovetails. I have a big problem with people who write books, magazine articles claiming folks have ALWAYS used router jigs and that there is no OTHER way to cut dovetails. Its surprising how often I come across stuff like this.Adam
Edited 5/3/2006 7:57 am ET by AdamCherubini
Agreed, I love to cut DT's by hand, but, when I was building blanket chests by the hundreds, (and through dovetails set them apart from the competition), I ponied up for a Keller jig(s) and found it to be one of the best investment in my shop. But, I taught myself to do it by hand first.
gandert,
Recently I've been using the workbench top with cleats and shims to glue up thin panels (3/16"). My workbench has a shellac finish that is easy to refinish and the panels just pop off....on balance, I think shellac is a good alternative
I don't have any hard historical documentation regarding when and to what extent blo and turpentine was or was not the favored method of finishing a work bench. For me, and I suspect many others, it is a good compromise between leaving your bench completely unprotected, but not creating a surface that is as slippery as it would be otherwise. I haven't noticed a problem with the finish being too slippery, and when I've gotten glue or other liquids on the bench top I've been glad that the finish was there.
Regardless of what was or was not traditional, or what you would find in a newport workshop in the early 18th century, you have to make your shop work for you today. If you work like Adam, then his views are going to be very relevant to your work. If you do not, then keep in mind that what Adam does in his shop won't necessarily make the most sense for you. The important thing is, and I think Adam will agree, is not to follow blindly, but to be a thoughtful about what woodworkers did in the past, what woodworkers do today, and what you would like to do with your craft.
To Houston,I completely and entirely agree with everything you wrote. Well written. Well said.It recently dawned on me that there is a line betwen really working by hand and kinda working by hand. Judgement aside, its good to be able to see that line, and know what side you are on so you can make good decisions. Its also good to know what side an author/expert is on. This is one reason I always wear the funny clothes whenever I give talks. It reminds folks about where I'm coming from. I think oiling your workbench is a great example of something that may work on one side of the line, but not necessarily the other. Adam
Edited 5/2/2006 5:36 pm ET by AdamCherubini
I use paste wax on mine. Not too slippery, easy to maintain, and glue drips pop right off.
Regards,
Dan
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