I have just completed my workbench top out of Beech and Curly Maple and am in the process of flattening it.
I had intended on flattening with the router and jig assembly such as Tage Frid suggests, but decided to try out the belt sander first.
I had a little over an 1/8″ of out-of-flat to take care of…
My notes from this escapade are these:
Belt sanders have their place, but I’m not sure that place is flattening my benchtop — too aggressive and not flat enough.
Routing technique is purported ot take about 4 hours when all the jigs are made — too long, too much prep.
I ended up using a #7 jointer plane, #10 1/2 smooth plane, and a scraper plane.
The planes were fast, got the surface nice and flat, and no dust!!
To anyone that is wondering which method to use for flattening a benchtop, I’m a proponent of using handplanes — no noise, no dust, and it is a pretty good workout.
erik.
Replies
Couple of thoughts on bench flattening...
The router doesn't have to be that time consuming. Screwing guide boards on the front and back of the bench is quick. An inch proud is enough. Just make sure they are aligned with each other. Mounting the router base to a sturdy non flexing straight board is fast. The better cutter to use is a spoilboard cutter. Basically a large diameter cutter used to flatten spoilboards on CNC routers. Makes fast work of flattening large areas. Hersaf makes them as well as others. This type of cutter isn't known by most woodworkers. http://www.hersaf.com makes some great bits, also not known by most folks.
My favorite apprach to be flattening issue is to take a bit more care in the initial glue up and not have bother flattening the table later. It's doable. Better prep with milling and curved cauls aligning the glue up ensures a perfect aligned panel so all you do is scrape of the glue and sand the planer marks out.
Edited 4/10/2007 2:07 pm ET by RickL
Edited 4/10/2007 2:31 pm ET by RickL
"The better cutter to use is a spoil baord cutter. . . . Hersaf makes them as well as others. This type of cutter isn't known by most woodworkers."
Count me in as "most woodworkers". Never heard of it, so being the curious sort, I went to the Hersaf site and searched for "spoil". Nothin'. Any more/better clue?
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Mike,
Try "spoil board cutter".
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 4/10/2007 1:25 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
http://www.hersaf.com/shop/index.php/action/category/id/7/subid/14/
http://www.vortextool.com/standard/productDetail.cfm?groupID=305
Hersaf doesn't call them spoilboard cutters.
Hello All,I just flattened the top of my bench two weeks ago using the Tage Frid method-
My bench is 15 years old and had a few small issues- It took 1.5 hours from start of jig building to end of final scraping. I have been thinking about doing it for three years but always hesitated .... Those little voices in my head... if the router just slips ... or I just slip ... I could do horrible damage to the surface... I kept putting it off.There was a thread discussion about two weeks ago and I just decided to go ahead and try it.Damn- what a beautiful little system! My bench is now very flat and I was extremely satisfied with the entire process.I built the sled from scrap ply, and a nail gun- no glue , no dry time
I didn't even screw the rails to my bench (Curly Maple- too pretty)- I just used three pony clamps, two winding sticks and a dead blow to tap everything plumb.I guess the only reason I'm sharing this info is because I put off something for years that turned out to be a joy to do. And the results ... Awesome.ps- I was going to use this task as an excuse to get me a LN #7 jointer plane. but then there is a whole new chorus of little voices .... Dave
I want to build this jig to use on my bench can you tell me where to get the plan to build the tage frid jig thanks alot!
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=58http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=3338Alan- copy/paste these addresses into your browser.The first from highland woodworkers website (the plan I used)The second from here at FWW.They both do the same thing- just a bit different design.Just a note with regards to the plan I used-
I did not make a sub-base for my router- I was going to... but I just used the router itself and slid it across the rails- When you build the rails it might make sense why I skipped this step.
I did place the stop blocks- turns out that is a good tip- you don't need to stress over when to stop- just glide to stop in both directions- almost Zen- wax on wax off-also I did not do the string thing to check for level- just a couple winding sticks for me because I'm comfortable with that tecnique.I do have a pretty decent straight bit for my router 1 1/4" ($30) - Not sure I would have done it using a 1/2" bitGood luck
drop me a note if you have any questions
Dave
Thanks for the link -- Yeah, that would do it alright! (Wood)Chips Ahoy!
Neat bit, and one I've never seen before.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Thanks for the links, was curious. Gotta say, though, if I'd have to go out and spend $355 for the cutter, I'd definitely take a different approach. Wow.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
WOW!
Imagine what the router costs to twist them and recommended horsepower! I'd send it out to a shop.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 4/12/2007 1:32 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
I couldn't figure out how much the Hersaf set-up would cost, hopefully less than the Vortex-whatever. Sheesh, suggestions like that....most of us don't need, ROFL!!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
And I might be a dumb ole country boy, but I have just looked at that router sled thing and it looks like a hell of a flap to get into just to skim a bit off a bench -especially if I am not to make a career of bench top flattening.
Doesn't a nice LieNielsen or Veritas low angle jack cost less than that helicopter bit?Philip Marcou
"Doesn't a nice LieNielsen or Veritas low angle jack cost less than that helicopter bit?" By golly, I think it does!
I don't have anything against the sled concept. Since my planer's maximum capacity is 12.5", there probably will be times down the road when a sled would be of use, but I ain't puttin' any $300+ router bit in it, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"most woodworkers don't know" about the helicopter bit, but now this one does.
What was that definition of esoteric, again?
Meanwhile it's about time to grab a bench plane and a straightedge to flatten/ resurface the top of my workbench this year. It's got dried glue drippings, ground-in metal filings, coffee cup rings, a certain amount of paint overspray, and looks like it's been beaten severely with a mortorcycle chain in a couple places. Yes, believe it or not, things are built on top of it.
Yah Ed, I would prefer to run helicopters when they are set in inchand quarter shafts on a shaper...
Your bench sounds like mine-let's face it they are supposed to be worked on. Mine has suffered engines and other machines too-gives them character. The slight dip in the center remains static, so can be compensated for if needed. Trouble is mine is only one inch thick and 22 years old, so a yearly levelling ritual has not been undertaken (;)Philip Marcou
Hey Phillip- I have a router that has this little knob on it- it allows you to raise AND lower the bit- to any setting you want!You'll get em out in the country some day soon.
T
Helioctiflipper, eh? That could work if the leading edge was sharpened with the correct micro-bevel. Couldn't it be flattened by finding a piece of really flat road and dragging.......oh, never mind.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
You might also like these as a less expensive alternative...http://magnate.net/index.cfm?event=showSubProductGroup&theID=6Cheers,Michael
That is funny. I am building my bench right now, and while my belt sander (the PC 4" x 24" beast) was great at rounding the ends of the leg trestles after I chopped them close with the miter saw, I don't think I will let it anywhere near the top. I am hoping my glue up goes well and it doesn't need much flattening. I am building a version of the one Lon Schleining built in a Tool & Shops issue a few years ago, and he does the top in three glue-ups. He runs each of these through the planer before glueing them together with lots of cauls. I will take extra precaution with this part.
You are exactly right. All you need is a straightedge and a No. 7. After it's flat you can take a break, catch your breath, move the frog to close the mouth a bit, and finish it off smooth.
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