I’m building my first real work bench for my small shop (12×18 shed). I figure a 24″x60″ top is as big as I can go and still have room to work. I work with power and handtools on projects that range in size from mall boxes to medium sized furniture.
I plan on mounting my face vise just inside the left leg set with the leg sets almost as wide as the top. My reasoning for this is that with a small bench like this there isn’t going to be much mass, so a wider stance appears to make it more stable. There will be no top stretcher across the front so clearance isn’t an issue. I’ve never seen a vise mounted this way in person, books or magazines, so I’m wondering what pitfalls await me that I haven’t forseen? Any help/ suggestions would be much apprieciated. Thanks.
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Without stretchers of some sort between the legs at the top, I'd worry about the stability of the bench and the top in particular (which might tend to sag). I think I'd inset the legs at one end at least the width of the vise, and add the stretchers. They will also allow you to add support under the top, front-to-back, at reasonable intervals. The top could then be as simple as two or three laminated layers of MDF with a cover surface of Masonite and edge banding.
You might also consider a hinged width/depth extension panel for glue-ups and assembly, to get around the limitations of the 24" normal-operating depth. Loose-pin hinges would allow that to be easily removed and stored. Adjustment screws in the legs would help to level it with the bench.
What do the legs look like, and how are you attaching them to the laminated top?
Here is the ultimate small shop "work bench". That is a twelve inch ruler in the first photo. I used these to make my other larger benches.
Vise !?!
Nah just put your foot on the work or your knee or sit on it. See the Toshio Odate books.
OK I better stop before you tell ME to sit on it.
: )
Works though. And keeps ya flexible ( who needs yoga with this set up ?)
PS: during heavy planing the long beam is wedged against a wall or in the corner on a post and the other end is up on a couple of crossed sticks. Look here at page 155 and there abouts
http://books.google.com/books?id=MNZprtnqT3wC&pg=PA156&lpg=PA156&dq=toshio+odate+workbench&source=bl&ots=I0_zP5bbse&sig=BqbI7mayKD5rYxV3n0Mr8bbHpqk&hl=en&ei=ztilS_YDlKiyA4jE5c8D&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=7&ved=0CCUQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q=toshio%20odate%20workbench&f=false
The legs are 2x4's laminated together then squared down to 2 3/4. The base will be M&T'd together and attached to the top with cleats and carriage bolts.
Workbench for a small shop leg placement
I'm in the process of building a new bench as well (one that can be taken apart and setup without hardware or tools). I suggest reading Christopher Schwarz's Workbench book to learn the basics of good bench design. Chris has done his homework and knows what he is writing about. Also, do an internet search on Roubo workbench. While you may not want to build this form (it uses a lot of material which makes is fairly expensive) its design and features provide a good base line. You didn't say how thick you plan to make the top. If it is 3 to 4 inches thick out of ridge material such as southern yellow pine, maple, ash, or oak you can attach the legs using a mortice and tenon joint and skip the top stretcher. By placing the legs flush with the front edge of the top you create a continuous smooth clamping surface across the front of your bench. Inset the vice so that the rear pad is also flush with the front of the bench.
By doing a lot of reading and planning you may be able to avoid some costly mistakes.
gdblake
We think alike
I've done almost exactly what you've suggested. I even e-mailed Chris, and got a reply in short order. he said go for it. My top is going to be 3" thick. The base is all salvaged material, but I'm using new for the top (SYP). And I will be making the front flush with the top and including a sliding deadman. I have an idea for an eliptical peg for the deadman to give it more flexability. Thanks for your suggestions.
The more I read about the Japanese style, the more I like it. Simplicity is the name of the game. And I know I always feel more like I've done something when I use hand tools over shoving something into a series of electric machines.
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