Replies

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jul 17, 2003 05:22am | #1

   They don't twist if the load is not straight, but I can't see how that could be a disadvantage.

   Cheers,

   eddie

2. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jul 17, 2003 08:33am | #2

   As mentioned by the previous poster, a square-hole dog won't slip out of alignment -- but I can't figure out how that is a significant advantage.

   Best I can tell, square dog holes are traditional/historical. They come from a time in which it may have been easier to make things (both wood and iron/steel) square, while maintaining a level of precision.

   I have round holes in my bench. I bought the brass dogs from Klingspor's, and the bench holdfast from Woodcraft. Nothing has ever slipped. I'm a satisfied customer.

   Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.
3. 
   AlanTurner | Jul 17, 2003 11:41pm | #3

   I have both on my bench, all Lee Valley.  The square ones are in the traditional row at the front, the round are all over, elsewhere.  I like the square better, but not signifigantly so.  You can set them higher to hold things.

   BTW, nice find.  Congrats.

   Alan

1. 
   Mach70 | Jul 18, 2003 02:13am | #4

   Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll go the easy route & drill round holes. Using a pre-made top also precludes adding a tool trough in the back--unless I again saw out a section & reglue. The way all my horizontal surfaces collect clutter this might be worth the trouble. Whatever I do it's GOT to be better than the "bench" I've been using. It's my loft from college--20 years ago! I ripped it narrower and shortened the legs but it's still just a sheet of 3/4 ply on a heavy frame. Ahh but the memories....LOL

1. 
   AlanTurner | Jul 18, 2003 05:14pm | #5

   If I could offer a thought?  The tool tray is a feature I like a lot, but it needs to be pretty structural.  You will probably want to be able to clamp to it with some strength.

   Good luck.  A good workbench is a hell of an important tool.

   Alan

1. 
   Mach70 | Jul 18, 2003 07:35pm | #6

   I'm not sure what you mean by clamp to it.  Can I assume you mean the tray needs to be structural to support the rear edge of the bench?  The edge of the bench needing to be strong to take the clamping forces?  If that's your meaning I absolutely agree.  If you mean I may want to clamp to the tray itself, I see no point in this.  I don't have any plans (or Landis' book) yet so I'm just in the visualization stage.  Now I'm picturing setting aside the 8" piece already ripped from the edge (fell off, actually).  Ripping another 8" strip and crosscutting (2) 1 or 1-1/2 foot pieces from that & re-glue the stack back up leaving about a 4 foot "hole" where most of the 2nd strip was. 

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   After planing, glue & screw a bottom to the opening to create a tray.  You think this is workable?

1. 
   AlanTurner | Jul 18, 2003 08:57pm | #7

   Mach,

   Not exactly.  Attached is a pix, sorry for the size, and its upsidedownness, of what I mean.  There are 3x3 endcaps, which support the back rail, which suports the bottom of the tool tray, which back rail is further supported by two interim sliding dovetailed dividers.  This way, I can either clamp to the back rail, or put a block the precise height of the tool tray into the tray, and clamp to this "sandwich."  A coulple of such blocks live there anyway.  Landis's book if great.  I read it cover to cover before beginning mine.  This is also a good time to put on a traditional tail vise, if you are so inclined.  I use mine all the time.  That 8" strip is plenty.  I think mine is only about 4.5" wide, or so.  A word of caution/repetition:  get your hardware before you cut!