I’m posting this in “hand tools” because I want to get a hand-tool users perspective on the subject.
Due to my recent post (3 weeks ago?) here, I have come to realize the reason I was having so many problems getting flat boards was not my technique, tools, etc, but my stupid POS “wavy” plywood bench top. I suspected such, but chose to ignore it for quite a while. No wonder I was beating my head against the wall wondering how anyone could possibly keep their sanity flattening boards by hand. Anyways, first order of business: a new bench.
I am going with a dominy-esque type of workbench and have some 2-3/4″ to 2-7/8″ tight-grained white oak in 15″ wide by 9′ and longer boards. I plan to use two boards, having one glue line down the middle, to form a final dimension for the top of 2-1/2″x24″x84″ bench (maybe 96″ long if I can).
My question is this: What are your thoughts on whether or not 2-1/2″ thick white oak on its face is strong enough to use as a bench top? I know there are plenty of 2-1/2″ (and even less) thick tops out there that are plenty stable, but most of them are formed by taking thinner (I’ve seen 8/4, but it seems most use 4/4) boards, turning them on their side, and glueing them up that way to get the thickness they want, but also the added strength of the side grain.
I know I could help combat downward pressure by attaching an apron around the bench — but, I really don’t want an apron around the bench.
My initial thought was that 2-1/2″ should probably be fine even though I’d like thicker. Maybe I should support both ends and jump up and down on a board, and have my wife watch to see if it flexes. Maybe not the most scientific approach, but I think
I might do just that…
Any thoughts? Any interest in photos (I have been taking a bunch while building this bench) or a “bench build” thread to follow?
Replies
Depends on how you are constructing the bench
Jeremy:
It depends on how you plan to construct the bench. With aprons and cross bracing it will work. Otherwise double the thickness of the top (4" or so).
gdblake
Thought so. :
I was affraid of that. I don't want any aprons or cross bracing, so I think I'll rip boards 3-4" wide and glue it all back together. Probably go at least 4" so I get the added weight, plus then I can thread my twin screw face vise right into the bench w/out the need for extra bracing that most people add for the twin screw.
I wasn't thinking (lesson learned) when I bought the wood that 2-1/2" face grain wouldn't be thick enough. In fact, I've got a little bit of buyers remorse about the thickness and quality (lots of knots) of the wood.
I would think 2-1/2" edge grain would be plenty, though. No?
Thanks!
Jeremy
edge vs. face
"I would think 2-1/2" edge grain would be plenty, though. No?"
Probably. There is much more "spring" to a board in the face-grain direction than on edge. Face-gluing boards so they are on edge in the final top assembly provides a top that is far more "dead". 2 1/2" thickness is usually enough to achieve that, I'd think, but thicker might be better, depending on what you'll be doing on the bench. Plus, the extra thickness will provide more material for future flattening.
4"
I decided if I was going to go that route, I'd go for 4"+ ... This way, I can thread the 1-1/2" right into the top for the twin screw face vise, and not have to worry about attaching thread blocks.
Thanks for the input!
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