Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Jun 26, 2010 09:18am | #1

   I've found that I get less spatter on my glasses from flipping quarters than I do from flipping burgers.  ;-)

   If I understand your description, you've got 3.5" of laminated ply, which is generally equivalent to most benches with solid wood laminations on the top, weight and stability-wise. The surface, however, won't be as durable as solid wood. One option would be to put tempered hardboard (Masonite) on the top as a "work" surface that can be easily replaced from time to time. Edging could provide a pocket for the hardboard, along with dressing-up and protecting the edges of the ply.

   Unless you do a lot of pounding on the bench, I'd think it would serve well for that purpose. I'd prefer an even alrger surface for an assembly bench.

1. 
   Tinkerer3 | Jun 26, 2010 11:29pm | #4

   "I'd prefer an even larger
   "I'd prefer an even larger surface for an assembly bench."

   So what do you think is an ideal size for an assembly bench?

1. 
   RalphBarker | Jun 27, 2010 12:33am | #5

   assembly bench size

   The ideal size, I suppose, depends on what you actually build. But, in my dream shop, it would be 4'x8', on wheels.

1. 
   Tinkerer3 | Jun 27, 2010 05:14pm | #13

   Thanks, since I already have a dedicated workbench, I was hoping to build a combination assembly and off feed table.  Don't want to waste so much space as having two tables.  In actuality, it will probably be smaller than 4 X 8 but larger than I had originally thought.  I can put it on castors but would like to be able to adjust the height to match the table saw and lower it to use as an assembly table.  So far I'm pondering that one.

   Tink

2. 
   heirloombill | Jun 27, 2010 10:25am | #7

   I'm sorry i wasn't very clear. My plywood surfaces were edge glued and now measure 1-3/4" X 33 X 61 and heavy.  I am working at a base, but it won't be mobil. 

   I do like the idea of replaceable top inside of edging. If at some point I choose not to have the hardboard top I can just plane the edging down flush. Good thoughts

1. 
   RalphBarker | Jun 27, 2010 10:41am | #10

   thickness

   Even at 1¾" thick, the top should prove to be substantial - if well-supported by cross-members in the base.

2. 
   sapwood | Jun 26, 2010 11:55am | #2

   Keep it simple

   I would put on a edge of hardwood to stabilize the ply then a coat or two of a simple finish. Then go to work. If the top gets mucked up in the future, then you can laminate something onto it.

   Don't fret over something so inconsequential.

1. 
   heirloombill | Jun 27, 2010 10:32am | #8

   I think your idea in tandem with the masonite cover will give some good years of use.  I'll be using it primarily for glue up table for small items, with wax paper underneath, and assembling smaller furniture pieces like end tables. It will most likely also get alot of "hold this for awhile" use as well. Thanks

3. 
   roc | Jun 26, 2010 08:31pm | #3

   Careful mixing stable ply and a dynamic planable plank

   >Or do I laminate another top surface on so that there is future planing ability for flattening< Good question. Problem is the planable plank may crack apart if glued down and gets dryer. I suppose if it took on moisture from the air it could even bow upward. Question is : Are you planing on using the bench for hand planing stock straight and flat ? If so it may be best to make a bench without the ply. If not then just add the hard board (Masonite) atop the ply.

1. 
   heirloombill | Jun 27, 2010 10:53am | #11

   I had nightmares of doing all this work and then throwing it all on the burn pile.  So laminating is out.   15 years ago I built a very stable straight and flat traditional maple bench.  I do all my hand tooling and joinery there, so this will be used primarily as secondary place to assemble small things and layout and probably some finishing duties.  After 15 years all the different stain colors have given my bench a look similar to a very expensive painting that the artist threw paint on the canvas. Only difference is I wouldn't want to hold up my bench in various places as my wife desides where to hang it. Thanks Bill

1. 
   roc | Jun 28, 2010 03:05am | #14

   Photos Please ?

   Any chance of seeing your Jackson Pollick esk work bench ? I enjoy seeing work benches posted here, especially the ones that have had a lot of use.

4. 
   Jfrostjr | Jun 27, 2010 10:06am | #6

   Bench top

   My experience with masonite, tempered masonite as well, is that it is not dimensionally stable with seasonal changes in humidity.

   As mentioned in another post, my bench-top covering of kitchen counter laminate, faux Rosewood at that, has lasted for many years.Hard maple edging is a must.

   Frosty

1. 
   heirloombill | Jun 27, 2010 10:40am | #9

   Am I correct assuming that this laminate material is glued down?  Have you found it to be too slippery at times?  I can imagine that it helps with clean up.  Do you use this with jigs and hand tools or assembly or general "everything wood shop" use? Thank you,  Bill

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Jun 27, 2010 11:39am | #12

   Workbench top

   As I recall, I glued the laminate with contact cement. You are correct that it is easy to clean; I just run a razor-blade scraper over the surface get rid of glue spills. Also correct: I use it for general shop use. I've beaten out white oak dovetails, pounded the living daylights out of it for 20 years. It just keeps on ticking.

   Photo #1 shows benchtop surface;

   #2 shows benchtop with vise and maple edging; note the magnetic-rubber, vise jaw facing with felt surface;

   #3 shows my general bench of particle board and a couple coats of poly;