I have just finished building the base for a new work bench. 4×4 legs with 2×6 aprons and 2×4 stretchers about 5 inches from the botton. The long aprons and stretchers are attached with bolts through the 4×4’s into the endgrain of the 2×6’s and 2×4’s with a hole drilled afew inches from the end to attache the nut to the bolt. Like some bed plans I have seen. I was skeptical at first but it is rock solid. It worked great! I am going to use a solid core door from Home Depot, 1 3/4 inches thick. My question is how to attache the door to the base. Would pocket screws every few inches from the base into the door work ok? If that would work adequately that is my preferred method. I could bolt up through the apron, but it is a 2×6 and that is quite a long way to go with the bolt. Any suggestions?
Frank
Replies
I would expect the aprons to be attached to or part of the top as opposed to the base but maybe I'm misunderstanding your design.
In any event I would have a minimum of attachment hardware for the top to the base so as to prevent problems with doghole placement and attachment devises for the top.
My workbench is constructed from a solid core door also. The base is constructed so the back side is flush with the wall and lag bolted to the wall studs. It aint goin nowhere unless I rack the walls down from hand planing!
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I also used a solid core door from HD, what I did was to drill a 3/4" hole in the base and top for a dowel, you can lift the top but there is no side to side movement. Make sure your holes are accurate.
PatCap,
Great idea! I'm just about to mount two more on trestles.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Frank,
Those bed bolts are good aren't they?
My bench is similar to yours but with a home-made rock maple top near 3 inches thick (6 footish X 2 footish). As it weighs a figurative ton, I have it unattached to the bottom of the bench. Instead I have a few short, shallow battens screwed to the underside of the top in such a way that they abutt all the aprons and prevent the top from sliding about.
The top stays put even with the most vigorous planing and such.
As Bob mentions, this absence of top-fastenings prevents interference with dogholes, vises or other bench accoutrements; but also means that the bench is easily knocked down if it ever needs moving. (I say "easily" but the top alone requires two strong blokes or one that doesn't mind a hernia).
How heavy is your door-top? Heavy enough to stay down under its own weight, I bet?
Lataxe.
Lataxe,
Of the solid core doors (3 so far) I've used I wouldn't recommend one person handling them alone. Not sure how much though.
By the way, got the Twin Screw up and running. Will be installing my homemade York dog this weekend!
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Even though I was skeptical I've decided the bed bolt design is excellent. Even without the top on I can't rack it a fraction of an inch. I don't know how heavy the top will be. But a solid core door 30x80 has got to weigh quite a bit. I'm retired now and not quite as strong as before so the suggestions to get some help are good.
Frank
I have a similar bench, with a solid core door top. I sized the top to fit the outline of the 4x4 posts, attached maple skirting around the edges of the top, and dropped it down over the posts (the top itself rests on the top of the 4x4's, and the skirting keeps it snug). Then a few screws through the skirt into the sides of the 4x4's hold it in place. Works like a charm.
Edited 7/18/2007 9:20 pm ET by gspman
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