Hello All,
I’m in the process of building a workbench based on the design presented in Fine Woodworking’s Tools and Shops Issue 167 (Winter 2003/2004 Issue) and shown on the cover of that issue. Everything has been going fine but I may have run into a bit of a snag related to the installation of the vises, now that I’m planning the layout of the dog holes in relationship to the vises I plan to use.
I’m wondering if anyone out there has built this particular workbench, and may be able to shed some light on the problem described below.
To be specific, I’m planning on using the Veritas Twin Screw Vise as my tail vise (as shown in the magazine article), but for my front vise I intend to install the Tucker Vise, also from Lee Valley. I have used the same basic dimensions as indicated in the article, but I have found that the main screws of the twin screw vise will hit the trestle top member of the right leg assembly due to their length. I have found that I need 11″ clearance between the inside of the right end cap/apron and the outside of the trestle top member. Based on the design dimensions it appears I will be over 3″ short of this if I install the bench top symetrically on the base. This conflict is not mentioned in the magazine article, and from the photos it does not appear that the author found it necessary to drill holes through the top trestle member (or make any other modifications) to accommodate the length of the vise screws.
I realize that in theory I could drill holes through the top trestle member, but I am skeptical that I would be able to do so using a hand drill now that the base is fully assembled (base is beech, bench top is hard maple). Has anyone tried drilling 3″ deep holes in hardwood such as beech with a 1″ or slightly larger forstner bit with any success? By my calculations the holes would have to be drilled right through the centre of the 3″ thick top trestle member.
The only other alternative I can see, is to offset the workbench top relative to the base in order to provide more overhang at the right end than at the left. However, in the magazine article, it does not appear that the author found this necessary either. The drawings make it appear that the top has equal overhang at both ends, including the thickness of the tail vise jaws. Unfortunately, this causes a problem installing the Tucker Vise at the front left corner of the bench because I would be left with insufficient overhang clearance (bench top slab has already been glued up in three partial slabs as well, so I can’t increase the slab length without starting over, which is not an option) to the left of the left leg assembly in order to line up the Vise’s built in dogs with corresponding dog holes in the benchtop (unless I were to drill the dog holes into the left end cap/apron, which the vise instructions specifically recommend avoiding).
Can anyone provide any suggestions how to approach this problem? I would greatly appreciate any advice anyone can offer in this regard!!
Thanks very much!
Dru Dron
Replies
Dru Dron,
I made the same bench but I modified dimensions somewhat. I did end up with more of an overhang on the end with the twin screw vise.
I see your problem on the other end. They may recomend against dog holes in the apron to avoid blow out. Maybe you could double up that apron piece so there is plenty of wood there so you don't get a dog hole to blow out.
See my bench photo attached.
John
Hello John,
Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it!
Nice bench! It bears a strong family resemblance to my creation. I just hope mine ends up looking as nice as yours when it's all said and done. This bench is actually my first ever "real" woodworking project, and I was afraid I might be biting of more than I can chew. But so far, so good. No major problems. I'm finding I just have to go slow, and be as methodical as possible to avoid major problems.
I find it reassuring that you also found it necessary to have more overhang at the end where the twin screw vise is. At least that tells me I haven't badly misinterpreted the general design and dimensions of the bench.
Your idea about thickening the left end apron to provide more space for dog holes sounds logical and simple. So simple, it hadn't occurred to me. That may be my best option when it comes right down to it. However, for aesthetic reasons I would prefer, if possible, to have equal apron thicknesses all the way around the bench due to the contrast between the beech I've used for the aprons and the maple I used for the top. Not a big deal, just a personal preference which doesn't really affect the functionality of the bench. I will definitely keep your suggestion in mind for future reference.
Also, I discovered to my surprise that my cordless drill does have the power to drill holes large enough to allow the vise screws to stick into or through the top trestle member, if necessary. I really didn't expect to be able to use a hand drill to muscle a 1-1/2" sawtooth/forstner bit through 3" thick beech, but it worked on a piece of scrap. So I may take that route, if I can convince myself that two 1-1/2" holes 16" or so apart through the trestle top member won't weaken the support too much. I don't think it will, but I'm going to hold off taking that somewhat drastic step until I exhaust all other reasonable options.
By the way, what finish did you use on your completed bench? I'm planning on using Tried and True Danish Oil based on the recommendation of someone at Lee Valley Tools. I think I want to avoid a hard film finish like polyurethane or other varnish type finishes so that the surface of the top doesn't become "slippery", making clamping, etc., more difficult. Any thoughts? It seems there are almost as many answers to this question as there are workbenches out there.
Thanks again!
Dru
I used linseed oil on the base and apron. I did not finish the top. The top will need to be trued up from time-to-time to re-flatten and a finish would gum up the hand plane. It seems to be holding up fine as is.
When you install the twin screw vice be very careful and methodical. It takes a bit of doing but when it is finally done and closes up just right it is very satisfying. I was going to drill the screw holes with a hand drill since I did not have a drill press but found that by hand I could not get the holes perfectly perpendicular. This is important for the install and operation to go right. I ended up buying a drill press to do this and it was worth it.
Good Luck,
John
Thanks again John,
I agree about the use of the drill press. That's definitely what I plan to use for drilling the holes through the jaw and apron. The only ones I was considering drilling by hand, if they become necessary, would be the ones in the side of the trestle top member, since they would not directly affect the accuracy of the installation. They would just be there to provide additional clearance, and would be drilled a little bit oversized for "safety". According to my latest measurements I would probably only need to drill part way into the side of the trestle member (maybe an inch or so, not all the way through). I don't anticipate this causing structural weakness in the leg assembly. Would you have any concerns about this, if I take this approach to increasing the screw clearance?
I've read that installing this vise can be a challenge in terms of getting it to function smoothly. However, from reading the instructions and examining one in a Lee Valley store, the installation appears (visually) to be quite simple, in contrast to what I've read. Based on your experience with it, can you elaborate on what aspect of the installation causes the potential difficulty? Is it just getting the alignment of the holes through the jaw and apron accurate that is the problem, or is there something else? I would think the hole alignment problem could be alleviated or elliminated by drilling the holes simultaneously with the jaw and apron clamped together on the drill press.
Any further insights would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again for all your help!
Best regards,
Dru
Dru,
I wouldn't be concerned about drilling into the trestle an inch or so. It would probably be OK all the way through as well. An inch diameter out of 3" stock still leaves a lot of structural strength.
For installing the vice there are no big problems. Careful layout and then getting the holes perfect makes the rest of it go smoothly. I probably went slower than necessary but I was triple checking everything since I had all the work done on the apron piece I didn't want to blow it and have to redo those dovetails.
Anyway its a great vice. The other thing you will notice about this bench, if you haven't already, it is absolutely stable. The weight and structure make it rock solid and perfect for all bench jobs. My previous bench moved a lot if I was planing a board - this bench does not move at all.
John
Hi,
I also built my bench, but bought the vises first (Lee Valley twin screw and Record). I adjusted the base design to clear the vise screws. The end result is that the twin screw end is off set. No problem.
Bob
Dru, Why not drill a horizontal cross bore centered in the trestle rail/apron just below the proposed vertical bolt location?
Then bore down down to the hole. The cross bore hole should be only slightly wider than the nut and washer and some clearance for a wrench. You'll have to use a shorter bolt or, hacksaw the original bolt. Steinmetz. Some times for esthetic appearances, The nut itself can be side drilled to accept a tightening rod (instead of a wrench.)
be sure to locate the vise jaws to allow for grasping any vertical long stock clear of the bench front.
If the vise rotates, allow for clearance at both sides of the bench's corner. Steinmetz.
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