All,
I’m about to attach the vises to my workbench and was wondering how long the wood jaw should/could be. The front vise is a Jorgensen with an opening of about 13″ and the jaws measure 7 1/4 “. The back jaw will be incorporated into 2″ thick maple which will be partof the bench top. How long should the 2” piece of maple on the front side be without deflection becomming an issue. What have you folks done for length?
Replies
BG,
I cut my wood jaw the same width as the metal jaws of the vise. I'd think each fraction of an inch you move away from center with your clamping pressure is going to cause some degree of racking. Regardless of jaw width, be careful to clamp wood as close to center as possible. Is this going to be used as a tail vise?
Perhaps it would be a good idea to contact Jorgenson.
Jeff
Jeff,
Contacting Jorgenson is a good idea, will do. This vise is going on the front. The tail vise is a pony.
I have seen pictures of other vises with the wood portion extended about 2-4 inches beyond the metal, but I have only seen the Jorgenson bare (so to speak) without any wood attached...altough it is suggested.
My objective is to be able to plane heavy/long pieces without them slipping.
BG
BG,
I too saw my Jorgenson bare; tok a lot of time and hard work, but after years of therapy I can at least talk about it now.
Jeff
Jeff,
lol...talk to me again and I'll have you arrested...
I bought a Tennessee Hardwoods bench, without vices, about the late 70's or early 80's, and found a split ring vice. I mounted it on the end of the bench, and used 2" maple the full width of the bench, about 25" or so. Clampling near the vice there is very little deflection. On the ends quite a bit. So, what I do (until I build a proper bench, which is to be quite soon, and need to confront your question more directly) is use a small hardwood wedge. The piece I am clampling will be tight at the center, and lose at the edge. Just "drive" (with your hand will be enough force) a small wedge in the opening at the edge, and the whole piece is then tight.
S4S,
My question pertained to my front vise, but I am also beginning to deal with the end vise too. It sounds like you have two rows of holes in your bench to hold the stock with the tail vise? I kinda figured one row would do, it that adequate?
BG
My old bench has two sets of dog holes, which I by and large don't use, and has no tail vice as traditionally understood. My new one will, I think, have an old style tail vise. I just liked the fact that I could clamp rather large things; hence the wide jaw. The back of the vise is inset into the breadboard end, so the full width is usable (sort of, as described).
I am not advocating this type of configuration; just sharing what I did 20+ years ago.
Interestingly, I will have to flatten my existing bench to have a good platform upon which to build my new one. But, am in the middle of a sideboaard for now, thus these matters are in the queue. 5 drawers, 20 sets of dovetails, so little time, so much to do, drink coffee.
S4S,
Yes, building a workbench without a workbench to build it on was/is a challange. Especially when you get it in your head to go with rough lumber and you don't have a jointer and your planer broke. <----whining
I have both, in good working order, and am still intimadated. Living in the garage are 2 planks of hard maple, 12'. 12/4, 10 1/2" and 6" in width. How I would handle these without a bench to start I have no idea.
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