Replies

1. 
   jako17 | Mar 18, 2003 03:19pm | #1

   Cherry burns really easily .Ensure it is a rip blade ,that your fence is parallel to the blade ,feed rate is adequate and you will minimize it .I always find I have to joint or hand plane the cut edges

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 18, 2003 04:46pm | #2

   The primary reason for cherry burning is using the incorrect blade for the cut. When ripping, be sure to use a rip blade, not a combo or general purpose blade.

   A secondary reason is not having your saw perfectly aligned. If the blade is not parallel to the miter slot and the fence not perfectly parallel or just slightly kicked out in the rear, burning can occur.

   BTW, it's not just cherry. Many hardwoods contain sugars and the sugars burn very easily.

3. 
   GrouchieGrum | Mar 18, 2003 04:59pm | #3

   Aother thing to check is to make sure you have the proper height on the blade compared to the wood you are cutting. I am a babe in the woods, but my Forrest Woodworker II states that the blade should rise above the wood to basically clear all of each tooth(including the curved portion underneath each tooth).  

   I noticed some burning on some mahogney I was cutting, and the instructions stated my blade was too low.. I raised the blade so even the curved parts of each tooth cleared, and the problem went away....

   Hope it helps,

1. 
   DonC | Mar 18, 2003 06:24pm | #4

   Grouchie has the best advice on this burning subject. I was told this at the Forrest blade booth at a Woodwork show. Now whenever I saw cherry, I just raise the blade near it's highest postion and NO PROBLEM with burning.

   don

1. 
   UncleDunc | Mar 18, 2003 09:27pm | #5

   Of course, you want to make doubly sure your blade guard is in good working order when you use this technique. :)

1. 
   GrouchieGrum | Mar 18, 2003 10:56pm | #6

   Awww cmon Uncle Dunc... I am young.. I am IMMORTAL!!!!!  hehehe Safety stuff is for losers!!!  errr or is it Not using safety stuff is for losers... lose your fingers, hands, etc....

4. 
   jonsherryl | Mar 18, 2003 11:57pm | #7

   RJ, your getting good advice on how to minimize "burn" when ripping cherry...but down the road, when you start sanding, you're going to be facing the same problem. The gum in cherry reacts to heat and turns dark very quickly. This is true regardless of what machining process you are attempting...In fact, it can happen even when hand sanding this wood, if you are the least bit aggressive.

   The objective is to avoid exposing the wood to heat. Be sure blades are sharp and always maintain an even rate-of-feed, regarless of the power tool you are using. You'll also have better luck using scrapers as much as possible in the finishing process.

5. 
   Thom1 | Apr 18, 2003 10:37pm | #8

   I rip solid stock mostly on a bandsaw.  Obviously not the question...

1. 
   PlaneWood | Apr 20, 2003 06:13pm | #10

   rip it on a band saw and then use a jointer.  My son has had my TS for the last 6 months and I haven't missed it one bit.  Also have enjoyed gaining that floor space back!

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

6. 
   endgrainguy | Apr 20, 2003 03:48am | #9

   Another alternative is to rip 1/32 -1/16 oversize on either table or bandsaw, and then rerip with fence canted about 1/16  over length of fence(as measured off mitre guage slot) away from blade. This is the best way to rip a glue joint, as wood movement during a rip cut makes a good glue joint impossible. Use this fence setting only for these sort of trimming operations. If you have a Beisemeyer type fence this adjustment can be made in a few seconds.