Replies

1. 
   docbones | Mar 17, 2005 05:35am | #1

   Hi Sawdust,  Yes I have done that. I used biscuits and polyurethane glue. I wiped the edges before gluing with acetone to remove surface oil. Worked out well, messy though.   Bob

2. 
   DennisS | Mar 17, 2005 06:21am | #2

   Sawdust-

   I've only worked ipe once but my preference for gluing would be epoxy. It seems so terribly dense that I can't imagine anything else soaking in adequately to create a bond. The poly glues might work, as was suggested but for overall weather proof-ness I think epoxy is the winner.

   ...........
   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
   Dennis
1. 
   douglas2cats | Mar 17, 2005 01:52pm | #5

   You might be right on the epoxy, although I can tell you that the cheaper 5-min stuff doesn't work well with Ipe. I think one of the better epoxies would probably be fine (System3, West, Etc). Goop brand Marine Adhesive-Sealant also doesn't work with Ipe. If I ever have to glue up Ipe again, I think GOOD Epoxy and Poly are probably the best candidates.

    

   If you build it - he will come.

   Edited 3/17/2005 6:53 am ET by douglas2cats

3. 
   Fingrs | Mar 17, 2005 06:55am | #3

   Be sure top seal the end grain...otherwise checking WILL occur!

    

1. 
   Sawdust2655 | Mar 17, 2005 12:58pm | #4

   Thanks all.  Fingrs, what would you coat the end grain with?

1. 
   DDay | Mar 17, 2005 02:51pm | #6

   this wax like stuff called anchor seal.  You cannot get any on the surface because it will stain it a bit and it will seal that area and prevent any type of finish from penetrating.  For a finish, use penofin or messmer's, both work well.

2. 
   Fingrs | Mar 17, 2005 03:15pm | #7

   There are several different end grain sealers for ipe; I don't recall the name of the stuff I used.  It's parafin-based and look like milk when in the can.  Your ipe supplier should have it. 

   There are quite a few discussions in Knots and Breaktime about ipe, albeit mostly for decks, that speak to many different aspects of working with the material.   

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 17, 2005 07:11pm | #8

   I did quite a bit of on-line research re: ipe for decking last fall, and nobody mentioned sealing the ends.  This is a surprise to me!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Fingrs | Mar 17, 2005 07:58pm | #9

   Hi, Jamie.  If you do a search on ipe over at Breaktime there are more than 500 messages...enough to keep you busy for a while.  That's where I found out about end sealing.

   I used stuff called Anchorseal end sealer from Iron Woods on my ipe deck.  A quart ($14) will last several lifetimes of deck installations.  But I hear it's good for waterproofing shoes and boots, too.

   So I guess you haven't started your deck yet?  When you're ready let me know and I'll share my "findings".

   Lofton 

2. 
   forestgirl | Mar 17, 2005 08:13pm | #10

   Hi Lofton, nope haven't started it -- we (Nick and I) got the money and made the decision about materials just about the time hunting season arrived.  Ooooops!  So, it's a summer project.  We had about 10 days of summer earlier this month, but glad we didn't start it then -- it's cold and miserable out there now.  Nick works in Oregon (I'm in WA), so the plan is for the two of us, and maybe the son-in-law, to get the frame up in a weekend when he's home, then I can do the installation of the "floor" part on my own.  Hope this is realistic -- I've never done a deck.

   I'll let you know!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   Fingrs | Mar 17, 2005 09:40pm | #12

   You'll have fun.  Try to get the frame square and pay close attention to spacing of the deck boards so you don't have a long tapered piece at the end.  Give yourself plenty of time to make it pretty...the ipe is great to work with and gives excellent results.  It will be like a big piece of fine furniture that you walk on.  Be well. 

4. 
   Fingrs | Mar 19, 2005 11:23pm | #15

   Hi, Jamie.  I'm in the process of plugging 700 or so holes in my ipe deck (the weather is finally warm enough) and decided to re-install a few boards that had been previously plugged.  I removed the 3/8 diameter plugs (which had been glued in using polyurethan glue) by drilling a smallish hole in the center of the plug.  I then used a chisel and my pocket knife to remove the remainder of the plug.  It's a little slow, but not too bad (I'd hate to do the whole deck, though!).

   I had to reinstall several boards because they cupped.  I guess I did not expect this to happen with ipe, but it did.  I had used 1X6s on joists spaced 16 inches on center.  As suggested by some one else, I screwed each board into overy other joist, and used construction adhesive on all joists.  I used #8 2 inch square drive stainless decking screws, BTW.

   When I pulled up the first board, I found the adhesive had totally failed.  I had used a Titebond product that I thought would work ok, but it didn't.  This was not all bad since the adhesive was very easy to remove from the bottom of the board (using a cabinet scraper).  Once cleaned up (and lightly sanded because that's the way I am), I replaced the board cupped side down, and drilled counter sink holes through the original holes.

   I'm undecided as to whether I'll go back and put screws into every joist.  Maybe later when everything else is done (read: never). 

   The lesson learned:  pay attention to growth rings when installing, otherwise cupping may be a problem.  This can be annoying because in the batch of ipe I got one side of each board was generally clearer than the other.  Also, if you're going to glue the ipe down, use a good epoxy adhesive.  And the stuff does shrink, so plan spacing carefully.  See ya!            

5. 
   forestgirl | Mar 20, 2005 02:39am | #16

   Thanks for the update!  I'll have a folder with all this info in it to read before we actually get started on our deck.  Your's is the first report I've seen about cupping problems, but then I haven't really scoured the forums for anything and everything yet!

    forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

6. 
   DennisS | Mar 20, 2005 09:35am | #17

   Has anyone tried turning this wood? Carbide tipped tools? (grin)...........
   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
   Dennis

7. 
   Fingrs | Mar 20, 2005 07:57pm | #18

   Just thinking about the dust that would be generated makes me gag... 

8. 
   DennisS | Mar 21, 2005 07:29am | #20

   Just thinking about the dust that would be generated makes me gag...Good point!...........
   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
   Dennis

9. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 21, 2005 09:18pm | #21

   IPE is like Purpleheart.. You have to WANT to work with it!Great wood.. Like a wife.. Pretty but stubborn as hell!

10. 
    Fingrs | Mar 20, 2005 08:00pm | #19

    I never saw anything about cupping being a potential probelm so I didn't pay attention to avoiding the problem.  Best be conservative, just in case! 

11. 
    dab | Mar 25, 2005 03:53pm | #23

    I too am considering Ipe as well as other similiar woods.  Did you buy it online or local?? how much a square foot for typical deck thickness??

12. 
    Fingrs | Mar 25, 2005 11:21pm | #24

    Hi, dab.  Ipe is usually priced by the lineal foot.  I used 1X6 for my deck, which is about 250 square feet.  With waste and such, I spent about $6.25 per square foot. 

    I bought my materials from a fence supply yard north/west of Philadelphia.  They delivered for free.  Your price will depend on your location and availability.  Have fun! 

13. 
    dab | Mar 26, 2005 04:22am | #25

    Fingrs,

    how did it go down for you??

    did you use the ipe deck fasteners with your router??

    how long ago did you install, is it turning gray or did you topcoat with UV protector??

    sorry for all the questions I don't want to make a mistake I'll regret later

    mark

14. 
    PatricKinOnt | Mar 22, 2005 10:16pm | #22

    I built a 700 sq ft, 4 level IPE deck last summer and this is what I did and it seems fine so far.  I used 5/4x6 decking on 2x8 PT joists, 16" centers.  I covered the joists with "joist-cap" to add to the sub-structure's life.  Face screwed ends and every 4 feet or so and used the Eb-Ty hidden system for the rest:  http://www.ebty.com/ .

    I used 2-3/4"" SS screws and tapered drill bits from Lee Valley, and installed plugs with titebond III.  For all the mitered corners (Rail Caps, stairs, Etc.) I used a biscuit for strength and to help with the alignment.

    The only problem I've discovered is that some of the miters have opened up and there is some checking on the ends but its wood, afterall.

    The wood looks like nothing else though.  I used Penofin Ext. Hardwood finish on it.

    For more info, also check the http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/porch/ forums as there is a TON of info. 

15. 
    BOBABEUI | Mar 17, 2005 08:14pm | #11

    Forestgirl,

    Ipe has a nasty habit of forming tiny end grain checks if it is not sealed..

     

     

     

4. 
   mike4244 | Mar 18, 2005 02:04am | #13

   Don't drop it in the well, it'll sink. Ipe is so heavy that it is not bouyant. Wear a dustmask when sawing, the red dust is irritating. Drill pilot holes for screws at 90% of the screw size instead of 75% as usually done. Otherwise you will snap a lot of screws.

   mike

1. 
   Sawdust2655 | Mar 19, 2005 01:34pm | #14

   Mikek4244

   Actually,  I was planning to hinge the top to keep it out of the well.  In addtion I will be mounting an antique hand pump on top.  Later I will update the gaskets, add some pipe and whallah a working well pump.

   Again, thanks to all for the advice and comments.