Replies

1. 
   djpp | Apr 17, 2002 07:33am | #1

   Freuds ultimate laminate blade works good for me. Router bits leave the cleanest cuts but can be time consuming and the dust is down right nasty. I would most definitly use the router for any rabbets or dados.

   I believe Woodworkers Supply has a doohicky for trimming your edge band. I have never tried one though.

   I am always careful with what surface I place the melamine on, it scars very easy and gets awful scuffs even on a clean tablesaw or router table.

                                       Dave

2. 
   Upraiser | Apr 17, 2002 07:44am | #2

   Melmamine takes some learning and it soounds like you have begun.

   Saw blade ? I Use a Forrest 40 tooth with a blade stabilizer.  I have a Delta Unisaw, 3 hp.  I use a very accurate fence.  I feed steady and fairly slow and the worst part.... I get some chipping.  Usually on the bottom.

   If you use double sided Melamine, you need to expect some chipping unless you have a scoring saw that cuts the bottom at the same time, that is the system used in the bigger cabinet shops etc. Its the only way to not have some chip out.

   The key, at least my success was to plan ahead and make sure that the visible side was on the top.  I have built quite a few cabinets, book cases with the material.  I try to hide the chipped side behind a face frame, or bury it in a dado.

   The tape can be cut with a router.  I use one of the little one designed for counter tops, etc.   If you go that route, be sure to get a bottom bering with only a 1/2 or less of cutting surface.  If you bury the cutter in the router you have less chance in tilting it into the work surface.  You have a very narrow surface to rest it on.  It works a bit better to double it up so that you have a wider surface to rest your router on.

   The only problem with using a router, is that you will still need to taper the cut so that you don't have a square edge that can be caught and pulled loose. The tools designed to cut the excess off, work quite well once you get the hang of it.

   I am speaking from experience on these problems, have messed up my share.  I have also asked a number of cabinets shops, and professional cabinet makers, the problems are not unique to me or you.

   BTW, the Forrest blade is the best investment you can ever make, I never change it, rip, cross cut, all with a very smooth surface.  I have run thousands of linial feet of melamine, MDF and a local product called Cortron which has an enamal surface. Not to mention, all the other stuff. I have had it for about 7 years, never had it sharpened. Just take it off once and while and clean it.

   It sure makes nice insides for kitchen cabinets, but boy oh boy is it heavy.

   What are you building ?

   Curt

1. 
   SteveDaniel | Apr 18, 2002 08:30am | #4

   Thanks for the advice all, I am building a couple of closet organizers for a customer. This has been a real learning experience in all facets. I'm using a Delta 10" contractors table saw with an Oldham 84th blade. Looking into a unisaw or a Jet. But haven't made up my mind yet. Need to study more because I plan on getting into the business. This project is turning out nice since I have abandoned the edge band and went with maple trim. Although I'm not making that much on it, I have learned alot about what it takes to install these things. Demo and patch take up alot of time and considering subing out that work. I did buy a Bosh edge trim bit for my router since then. Will try it on the next project........Thanks again.

   PS. How much does the Forest blade cost????

1. 
   Upraiser | Apr 18, 2002 07:21pm | #5

   $104.99 at amazon.com

   http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000223VR/qid=1019146422/sr=8-3/ref=sr_8_7_3/104-8256151-1108706

   They usually have an add in the woodworking magazines, sell the same with sharpening coupons.

   Recommend getting the blade stabilizer with it.

   If you are going into the business and plan to do a lot of work with melamine, go to your local supplier of commercial grade tools and check to see if the scoring saw attachment will fit on the saw you are looking at.

   Delta makes one of the Unisaw's with it, and another makes an attachment.  My cabinet shop friends say its the way to go for melamine work.

   I like the wood treatment, but the vinyl tape is a lot faster.

   Good luck on you venture.  Protect your back, that stuff is heavy and will get to you.  I know, one operation for ruptured disc and another one going to happen any day. All due to melamine and MDF and a weak brain.

   Curt

1. 
   DonStephan | Apr 22, 2002 05:20am | #6

   A high ATB blade has performed best with melamine for me. I have two. After about 12-15 sheets start to see some very small chipping. Send that blade out for sharpening and use the other.

   Trimmed iron on edge band for years with file designed for this. Bought last year a trimming tool that cuts both sides at once but still use file to bevel back the edge band. Found Edgemate brand edge banding the best.

   Have also found an IMMENSE variation in chipping between manufacturers of melamine. Now I only buy melamine from local outlet of Distributor Services Inc.

   Think there is quite a bit of info and discussion on melamine at some of the boards at http://www.woodweb.com

1. 
   Upraiser | Apr 22, 2002 09:05am | #7

   Don

   I sure agree about the differences in melamine and manufactures.  I haven't used it for a while, but I presume it depends on the type and size of the chips.  I even noticed some differences in the same batch.

   I plan to avoid it as much as possible in the future. Have all the kitchen cabinets built and the shop cabinets are using some of the left over material and the last of it went on the wall yesterday.

   My back just can't take it anymore.

   Curt

3. 
   sschefer | Apr 17, 2002 06:30pm | #3

   CB, You didn't say what type of saw you were using so the advice on the 40 tooth Forrest II Thin Kerf combo blade is right on the money but only if you are using a table saw. Don't use it in a Radial Arm Saw, use an 80th blade with a negative rake.

   I have the Forrest blade and I use it when I cut melamine. I use the table saw with a sled or when making long cuts (cant really call it ripping) I use a zero clearance insert. When I'm working with double sided melamine, I score one side by barely raising the blade and running it through. Then I flip it and make the through cut. This takes an accurate saw and takes some practice but it's not all that difficult. On occasions, I will use a sacraficial piece beneath the cut piece and run it through in just one pass.

   If you are using a circular saw, then buy an extra sheet of MDF, lay it on the floor or a solid surface then put your melamine on top of it for the cut. Set your saw to cut just through the melamine. To keep the top from chipping you can score it with a knife or use a piece of wide masking tape over the cut line. When you remove the tape, pull it on an angle towards the cut, not away from it. This will help prevent any lift off of the melamine in cases where there might not be a perfect bond.

   If you are using a RAS, then the method is nearly identical to a circular saw except you would need to rig something to support a sacrafical piece for long rip type cuts.

   Steve - in Northern California