I have been using mostly White Ash and Cherry for my furniture pieces. Some fellow workers have mentioned using Sapele.
Its $/BD Ft appears to be comparable to Cherry here in Maine and New Hampshire.
It is a fairly stable (decent expansion coefficients & t/r value-1.5) wood, and is somewhat less dense.
However, I have seen varying opinions on its workability vs a vs hand tools and power tools.
Can anyone give me their take on this wood and the characteristics of its plain, quarter sawn, and riff cuts, as well as it overall looks compared to other hardwoods.
How does it compare to other woods in workability. Do you like using it??
Thanks!!
John
Falmouth ME
Replies
I just completed a couple of projects using Sapele. A split top Roubo bench that has a Sapele chop and dovetailed end cap, and the other a trestle coffee table. For the chop I used a spokeshave and hand planes to get a coffin shape and same for the trestle base of the coffee table. All were quartersawn, and quite easily worked. The grain in the ribbons do run in opposite directions, but no tear out. I would definitely use it in future projects. Finished with Osmo poly oil, it looks and feels great.
Thank you!
See my reply below.
Sapele is a strange one in that sometimes it can look quite interesting, with a mahogany-style grain of swirls and other interesting figure. Alternatively it can look rather boring - uniform straight ribbon stripes that have a nice chatoyance but are reminiscent of a ploughed field.
The colour can vary from a light almost golden sheen to a dark red, with various shades of pink and red-brown between. Sometimes the effects are pleasing but there can also be something of a random or mottled look that isn't that attractive.
It's often difficult to smooth because of the roiling grain - columns of rotating or winding grain that mean you're always planing against the grain every few millimetres. It can tear out quite easily. The density also varies, from very dense and hard to almost woolly.
However, if you can select the good stuff - denser, more evenly coloured and with interesting grain patterns rather than row after row of stripes, it's worth the difficulty in working it. Super sharp jointer/planer blades (perhaps those little square TCT spiral jobs) and a high angle blade in your plane. Or lots of power sanding with a belt sander in a sanding frame to prevent the digging of holes.
Personally I use a jointer/planer with super-sharp HSS straight blades given a microbevel to produce a highish cutting angle; and the same in the planes (60 degrees or more). If you can avoid the tear out, and the particular planks you have are better quality stuff, you can end up with some very attractive pieces that mimic true mahogany.
But I confess -- I generally only use it for nice looking window sills, door frames and similar, rather than pieces of furniture.
Lataxe
Ha! Where I live, a well ploughed field with straight and consistent furrows is a work of art.
Yes, sharp tools and high cutting angles have often been mentioned in dealing with this wood.
Thank you!!
Thank you! It sounds that it is quite important to rifle through available stock at the yard in order to get something satisfactory...may take a small block plane with me.
I have see quarter sawn Ash a bit too linear, as well. Once again, have to be careful when selecting this stuff.
Appreciate the tips.
Whatever species I want to use, I pick the best looking boards. Some work great with edge tools, some need more scraping and sanding. Adjustingthe tools to get the desired outcome is just part of the process.
I do like sapele, especially the ribbon figure.
thank you for your advice!
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