Replies

1. 
   john | Dec 10, 2003 01:22am | #1

   I tried some once, found it very difficult to work. Might be ok with a drum sander. One of the problems is the varying degrees of hardness.

   John

2. 
   VeniciaL | Dec 10, 2003 05:57am | #2

   Todd,

   Zebra wood is very beautiful. Finished, it looks like someone swirled oak and walnut together in a mixing bowl. I like an oil/varnish finish on this open-grained wood. It polishes beutifully.

   Like all wood with confused grain (burls, crotches, birdseye maple, other highly-figured forms) it is very hard to work without tearout. Rotary cutting tools (jointers, planers) are the biggest problem. Hand tools are better including low-angled bench planes, block planes, scrapers and of course sandpaper. Blades must be very sharp, use very light cuts and hold planes askew to the long grain direction (if you can discern it).

   VL

3. 
   jonsherryl | Dec 10, 2003 06:58am | #3

   Todd, as you're hearing from John and Venicia, even top grade zebrawood is brittle and tends to be a little chippy...but another thing you have to look out for when buying this wood is to be sure you don't get buttress stock.

   This species typically grows in swampy soil and it produces a very large (high) buttress. Because of its popularity and scarcity, loggers tend to salvage as much of the log as they can at the buttress end. The buttress wood tissue is especially brittle and also experiences relatively high longitudinal shrinkage. You can usually spot buttress stock in that it often exhibits very fine cross grain checks...also, it tends to be a little softer (sort of punky) and the color contrast is usually not quite as vivid as stock from higher in the log.

   When you see these symptoms, avoid using the stock in anything important...or at least don't use it in a prominent place...and especially, avoid using it along with normal stock in an edge glued panel.

1. 
   toddhunter | Dec 10, 2003 08:02am | #4

   I couldn't seem to get a clean face with a plane, so I just used my ROS beginning at 80 and going up to 150.  I also hand sanded to 180.  It came out pretty good, though some of the grain seems to want to raise.  But this is about looks mostly, so a little grain won't be noticeable when the colors pop.  I tested blo and clear waxless shellac. The shellac seemed to darken the dark grain a little too much.  But I was trying to seal in the grain some.  I suppose an oil/varnish would do just as well. I was also wondering if edging it with a router would cause too much tearout. ?  Todd

2. 
   ian | Dec 10, 2003 02:05pm | #5

   Jon, remember Splinte's "what wood is this posts?"  well I now have a copy of the Australian Timber Buyer's Guide.  Listed among the exotics is Zebrawood.  Under working properties is noted  "it is hard to machine plane in that grain tearout occurs fairly easily and it tends to burn slightly if cutters are not kept sharp"   Hopes thsi helps

   Ian

1. 
   jonsherryl | Dec 10, 2003 03:03pm | #6

   Ian, I certainly do remember Splintie's posts...In fact, you might say virtually all of them were downright indelible. That sample of incredibly dense wood she sent me cupped so bad I thought for sure it was destined for the firewood pile...but it finally came in handy. I've been using it for nuts and bridges on some of my dulcimers (about the largest useful things I've been able to mill out of it that stay flat.)

   Also, it's good to hear that forestry down under has progressed to the point that they are able to produce a buyer's guide. Does this mean your botanists have finally settled on an agreeable taxonomic nomenclature...Or does the guide just omit scientific names? :O)

   ...Just jerking your chain again, Ian. I've been reading some very scholarly paleobotany reports from Aussie authors lately. It seems to strengthen the argument that the angiosperms probably originated somewhere down there in what is now greater Southeast Asia...but I suspect they'll be chewing on that question for a good long time after I'm gone.   

4. 
   AlanTurner | Dec 10, 2003 11:47pm | #7

   I have used zebrawood a few times, and while quite striking it is a PITA.  To me, and maybe Jon Arno can help here, it seems that the grain rises in one direction on the dark wood, and in the oppositie direction on the light wood.  One time I decided that I really could hand plane it, and carefully sharpened a L-N snoother, tightened down the mouth, and went at it with abandon.  All I got was an iron that looked like a toothing plane, with tons of tearout. 

   Only way I've found to work it is on a TS, followed by a drum sander.  And, please note that the dust is terrible to breathe.

   Good luck.

   Alan

1. 
   jonsherryl | Dec 11, 2003 01:25am | #8

   Yes, s4s, interlocked grain is very common in zebrawood...in fact, it's the norm. It also often produces some curl...and when it does, the fibers are running off in everywhich direction. It's pretty, but it's a challenge to work with.

1. 
   toddhunter | Dec 11, 2003 02:31am | #9

   I noticed the grain going in opposite directions.  I kept it simple.  Sand and finish.  How does it take screws (for hooks) or pegs (glued)?  Todd

1. 
   jonsherryl | Dec 11, 2003 05:51am | #10

   Todd, it's best to drill pilot holes, especially if the fastener will be installed near the end of a board. Zebrawood is pretty brittle...and it's also dense enough that you'll want to be accurate on the diameter of the pilot hole. Just snug enough to bind the nail or allow the threads on a scew to grab.

1. 
   toddhunter | Dec 11, 2003 06:27am | #11

   Sounds a little risky, but thanks for the head's up.  Todd