Just picked up a Worksharp on Friday night. I got a chance to play around with it this morning. I could not for the life of me get it to sharpen square-every chisel that I used came out skewed. This obviously frustrated me ( yes they were square to begin with). Also flattening the back wasn’t all that greatn and that little “micro-abrasive” piece at the sharpening port really scratches up your nicely polished back. Aesthetically I don’t care about that, but it makes me wonder about the finished edge.
I’m going to work with it a bit more today. If I don’t get it to work better, I’m returning it tomorrow.
I know the unit has fans here and elsewhere, Anyone else have similar results?
BTW I am typing one-handed, so please excuse any typos.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it’s like he’s stuck between stations.
Replies
I know nothing about you tool.. I have a Tormek and had the same problem.. They told me.. Gee, Tighten the clamps that hold the 'blade' on each side at the same pressure..
Does it have a clamp? I guess I was tightening the right clamp more than the Left.. OK, so I'm right handed...
I've been using the WS 3000 and all my chisels are perfectly square. I just rechecked them thinking maybe I wasn't looking close enuf.
Oddly enough, your endorsement led me to the purchase decision. I can see how it's a good idea and could work well, but I just can't figure out what's going on. I get good edges when I use stones; I just wanted something faster. I could learn how to use this the right way but the idea was to grab it and go. Maybe I'm expecting too much from the machine.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
I've got one and have no issue with keeping a chisel square. Also, after using it a bit, the Sc paper for removing the wire edge/burr, wears down sufficiently that it doesn't scratch the back. If it really bothers you, replace it with a piece of 1500 grit or higher.
I agree with your comments about the unit being less than acceptable for flattening. In my earlier posts I indicated that I felt the machine is high priced for what you get and I sustain that opinion--at $50 less it would be a real winner. In spite ofthe limitations, if I could return it for full credit, I don't think I would. It does set bevels beautifully and greatly reduces honing time. Incidentally I free hand sharpened most tools on oil stones (prior to this purchase).
There is an adjustment to square it up. Check the manual. It may have slipped in shipping.
Yeah, I did that. No effect, so perhaps I did it incorrectly. I'm going to check again tonight.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
I just got one this week and have only sharpened one chisel. Did it well and was square. The motor seems a little klunky though.
250 smackers and a klunky motor to boot? Booo.
"250 smackers and a klunky motor to boot? Booo."
I'd say "Booo" too if I paid $250. The most expensive model sells for $199 retail.
No input on the WS3000, but i have used a Makita horizontal sharpener and quit doing so. I think that since the cutting action comes around in a circle against the blade, it is always likely to be skewed (long point to the right). Anyway, it required a lot of fiddling, plus keeping the stones flat, etc was not worth the effort.
I have found that with my trusty Veritas honing jig (the early version), I can go from a hosed over edge from the grinder to a mirror finish with a flat bevel in just about 5-6 minutes. Touching up takes way shorter. I use a medium diamond plate to clean up from the grinder and to flatten the back, then hone on 800, 1200 and 4000 grit Japanese waterstones. Once the blade/chisel is in the jig, I can very quickly go from one stone to the other and still hone the back as well.
The reason that I can touchup very quickly is that once I have honed the blade, before I remove it from the Veritas, I measure the projection from the cutting edge to the base of the jig and record this measurement on the handle end of the blade with a sharpie (I have a small plastic jig with a ruler cemented to it to do this). Generally this is somewhere between 25 and 40 mm, depending on the bevel angle and the blade thickness. Regardless of the exact angle, I can reinstall the blade to this projection and be very assured that I will be touching up at the exact same bevel angle (I use the same measureing jig to do this and get the blade square as well). Anyway, that's my two cents!
Thanks for the input Bill. I have the Veritas Mk II jig (or "training wheel", as superior woodworkers like to call them), and with the registration jig I can get repeatable bevels quickly. It works well. I just wanted something that would work even faster, and the Worksharp seemed like it would be the ticket. I think you might be on to something with your theory.
I returned the machine yesterday morning. I'm going to round out my collection of Shaptons now.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
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