Replies

1. 
   stevemorris | Feb 06, 2009 02:49pm | #1

   i have a cheap laminate floor in my 2 car garage laid over the underpad diectly on the concrete, its really kind to dropped tools and the feet

   quick and easy to install, stuff rolls really easily, and big projects slide around on it without damage

   its been down for two years, otherthan a few battle scars, its holding up really well

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Feb 06, 2009 04:02pm | #2

   Joel,

   I have 3/4" plywood (good on one side) installed.  I chose no finish/flooring - the thinking being that it is relatively smooth and over time with sawdust, shavings, etc. and walking on it would eventually become burnished by itsef.  Also because it is unfinished would provide a bit of grip for assemblt table, workbench and so forth.

   So far my inclinations have proven to be correct.  I would think that would also be the case for you if you don't experience any moisture issues but your mileage may vary.

   In the event any finish/paint gets slopped on the floor I call it, well, patina.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

3. 
   BG | Feb 06, 2009 06:34pm | #3

   Jspenser,

   I use Dricore and they put a high density acrylic finish (whatever that is) over the wood. Yo may want to google dricore and see if more info would help you.

1. 
   cwalvoord | Feb 06, 2009 11:10pm | #4

   BG,
   Not sure I understood your post - did you put a finish on top of the Drycore yourself or did it come with a finish? I have Drycore under the carpet in the finished half of my basement and it has been great. I would like to put it down in my shop that occupies the other half but I am not sure if I need to put anything on top.
   Thanks
   Chris

1. 
   BG | Feb 07, 2009 12:49pm | #11

   cwalvoord,"Not sure I understood your post - did you put a finish on top of the Drycore yourself or did it come with a finish?"No, I did not put a finish on the Drycore, the finish that is there Drycore put on. I was suggesting to JSpenser that he look at the Drycore finish as a possible solution for his situation.

2. 
   jspencer01 | Feb 07, 2009 01:51am | #7

   BG,Thanks for the input. I did some searching on the internet and didn't get any information regarding "high density acrylic finish" other than artist type stuff. Is your finish clear or colored? Is it thick enough to fill in some of the crevices in the dricore (I assume that the dricore has a surface similar to osb). Lastly, was it costly? Thanks

1. 
   BG | Feb 07, 2009 01:05pm | #12

   JSpencer,I bought the Dricore a few years ago after a comparative article on 'best floor for shop' was published in FWW, paid about $1.25 a square foot at HD.It is an OSB type with a hard surface...natural color. I was kinda hoping one of our finishing experts could enlighten us on the 'high density acrylic finish'

4. 
   Scag_man | Feb 06, 2009 11:21pm | #5

   I used VCT tile and love it.  They use this stuff in navy ships and it's very easy to find at any homecenter.  Benefits are:

   * relatively cheap - $0.50 per sq ft

   * pretty easy to install - just spread glue and stick.  Easy to cut around corners when warmed up

   * white color reflects light very well and keeps workshop bright

   * very easy to sweep up

   * relatively soft so it's very forgiving on dropped tools and feet/knees

   * Glue doesn't stick to it

   If it gets too dirty after ten years, just sand away the top surface, reseal and it looks like new.

    

1. 
   jspencer01 | Feb 07, 2009 01:45am | #6

   Scag_man,Thanks for the suggestion.......by the way, what is VCT tile? The tool palace is a little over 800 sq. feet and funds are a bit tight, so even an outlay of $400 is pushing it. I may do nothing for the moment and when/if the recovery happens I can swing it then. Regards,
   Joel

1. 
   Scag_man | Feb 09, 2009 05:38pm | #13

   I liked your "tool palace" descriptor.  800 sqft is quite large...lucky guy.

   VCT stands for vinyl composition tile.  It's the stuff you often see on the floors at schools, churches, nursing homes, cafeterias, etc.  I tried the that epoxy coating stuff on my garage floor once and hated it.  It flaked off after a short time.  Paint is a cheap solution, but again it needs redone on occasion.  That's when I turned to the VCT.  It might be the next cheapest alternative in the hierarchy of solutions and is much better than the coatings I'm aware of.  If you do it, don't hire it out becuase the cost shoots way up for the labor.  It's actually quite easy to do yourself anyway (get some kneepads though!)

   Here's what wikipedia has for VCT: Vinyl tile is favored over other kinds of flooring materials in high-traffic areas because of its low cost, durability, and ease of maintenance. Vinyl tiles have high resilience to abrasion and impact damage and can be repeatedly refinished with chemical strippers and mechanical buffing equipment. If properly installed, tiles can be easily removed and replaced when damaged. Tiles are available in a variety of colors from several major flooring manufacturers. Some manufacturers have created vinyl tiles that very closely resemble wood, stone, terrazzo, and concrete. Tiles can easily be cut and assembled into colorful and decorative patterns.

1. 
   kreuzie | Feb 10, 2009 06:21am | #14

   Will the VCT adhere to the OSB, or should 1/4" underlayment be installed over the OSB?

   kreuzie

1. 
   Scag_man | Feb 10, 2009 04:31pm | #17

   The VCT is pretty pliable and flexible, so over time you will see it take the shape of the floor it covers, including all the gaps, seams and bumps.  So, it's best if you're covering something very flat (like concrete). 

   If you have large gaps between the OSB sheets or movement, you might even see cracks in the VCT that mirror these gaps.  You can fill them beforehand and sand for a flat surface and perhaps be okay, but the underlayment would be better. 

2. 
   jspencer01 | Feb 10, 2009 07:02am | #15

   Scag-man,The 800 sq. feet is not a matter of luck......It just took a bunch of hard work, severely misplaced priorities, and a willingness to go deeply in debt. As for luck, I'm lucky that I married a very tolerant woman. Regards PS Thanks for the idea on the VCT.....I'll keep it in mind if I decide to upgrade the floor. For now, it will remain unfinished.

1. 
   Scag_man | Feb 10, 2009 04:24pm | #16

   Well said! 

5. 
   USANigel | Feb 07, 2009 02:06am | #8

   If funds are low, just use up the leftover paint to seal the surface. Mix well for a even color.

6. 
   JayTran | Feb 07, 2009 08:04am | #9

   I put dricore panels in my shop as well. Before installation I applied 2 coats of water based poly to the panels. I now wish I hadn't done that, they are rather slick when walked on, especially when there is some dust on the floor.
   I'm hoping it wears off in a while.
   -Jay

1. 
   dgreen | Feb 07, 2009 10:21am | #10

   I went the same route as Bob of Kidderville acres and left mine unfinished, I have not regretted it. 

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot

7. 
   Mackwood | Feb 10, 2009 07:38pm | #18

   I also have an OSB floor in my shop.  Mine is the cheap stuff; 7/16" @ 5.95 a sheet.

   I used Sherwin Williams "ArmorSeal" in a very white color.  It has held up wonderfully for 3-4 years now, goes on very easily and is pretty reasonably priced.  It's an acrylic product, water based and has no terrible fumes or odor.

   I strongly recommend the white color as it will reflect light, brighten your shop and make small things dropped easier to find.

   Regards,

   Mack

   "Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/10/2009 2:30 pm ET by Mackwood

1. 
   JohnDMcleod | Feb 10, 2009 08:07pm | #19

   What kind of Armorseal? There is more than one kind. Product # or specific name, please?

2. 
   jspencer01 | Feb 10, 2009 11:17pm | #20

   Thanks Mack. A few questions for you:First, did you put the armor seal down on new osb? If not, how scruffy was the floor and did it need much prep prior to applying? Second, does the armor seal make it easier to sweep? The osb I used traps a bit of the fine particles which in general doesn't bother me, except I will also be doing some finishing in the shop. Thanks,
   Joel

1. 
   Mackwood | Feb 11, 2009 01:29am | #21

   Joel,

   When I laid the OSB down, I put "shiny" side up.  I did absolutely no prep to it what so ever.  I put down three coats of the "ArmorSeal" straight onto the OSB with no primer (per rec. from my friendly SW store mgr.).  There are places where it's been gouged or scraped off but none where it has peeled or "let go".  It has really held up remarkably well!

   I would say it does a more than adequate job of filling in the craters in the OSB.  It sweeps at least as well as the old sealed concrete.   A couple more coats would probably be great.  I will do that down the road after I beat up the current coats a bit more!  LOL

   If your shop is empty, it's a great time to do the floor.  I had to x-fer all my junk from one side to the other and back.  Tedious, but well worth the effort!

   Best of luck with it!

   Regards,

   Mack"Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Feb 11, 2009 04:45am | #22

   Folks,

   I just Googled osb subfloor and found out something I did not know B4 - OSB should not be used if there is any possibility of moisture.  Because it doesn't breathe it is highly susceptible to mold and mildew.  Also, if it gets wet several times it breaks down and crumbles.

   I've never been a big fan of osb because of all the glue that holds it together.  To me, for the difference in price I'll stick with plywood.  I suppose one could say I'm not quoting from experience as I've never used the stuff.

   Yes, I AM old fashioned,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!