Replies

1. 
   SNMARK | Dec 30, 2007 08:53pm | #1

   I personally have never used the blankets you mentioned, however I have seen many shops
   done this way, mainly because most steel building kits come that way.

   I have to first say I am not a building contractor, however I have built several shops and
   houses both in Seattle and most recently Wyoming so take this advice for what its worth. As far as R-Value, two issues must be considered, 1 no matter what the R specs of the insulation, the main factor is how sealed the shop will be after completion. The problem I've encountered in the past is that even with stud framing and interior walls, unless you spend as much time sealing every single gap, holes for pipes, conduit etc. you've negated a lot of hard work and money. '2' Depending on how concerned you are about dust, should determine what type of surface you want to end up with.

   My current shop was converted from a Pole Barn because I needed to do it as quick and cost
   effective as possible, ( Re Dumb Decision ). Anyway after correcting several shortcomings,
   I ended up with steel roof, r-19 ceiling ins, steel ceiling, two layers of walls, one 6" w/r-19, one 4" w/r-13, exterior wood siding, tar paper, osb, interior sheetrock, steel or t&g pine walls, Double pane vinyl windows, ins steel doors etc. The Main problem I encounter
   on a consistent basis is despite knowing better, I got in a hurry and didn't seal things well enough. Using tar paper instead of Tyvek etc. Consequently, after every 50-100 mph wind
   I end up with enough blown in dust and horse manure I could start a compost business on the side to help pay for the lost heat.

   Anyway, sorry to get longwinded on the subject, I would definitely look into professional insulation contractors to apply polyfoam (the highest R-Value) or blow-on cellulose,(Best for sound if you have alot of noise with pick neighbors, But needs to be covered). At least talk to one and see what they recommend, and remember to weigh the higher costs of polyfoam and prof contractors with future energy loss as well as the added benefits of getting the best sealing job possible at the same time.

   Hope this helps!

   Mark

2. 
   billsams | Dec 31, 2007 04:02am | #2

   what I did in my quonset hut, was to find a commercial dealer of insulation, who offered anywidth up to 8' and any length, 4" thick.

   The way it was applied was with metal pins attached to a perforated 2" square flange. First using flooring adhesive, apply to the flange and stick to the metal walls 2' on center or closer. After allowing to dry for 24 hours, push the insulation on the 6" pins sticking out (be careful not to puncture your hand), apply a second 2" square flange over the pins holding the insulation in place and then bend the pin over with plyers.

   This all has formal names, but damn if I can think of it right now.

   The insulation has been up for close to 10 years with no issue.

   If you remember the old desk top note holders that people used to push papers onto, that is the basic principle.

   If you need more explanation, let me know.
   Bill

3. 
   Don01 | Dec 31, 2007 09:16am | #3

   Have you considered polyurethane foam? Not sure how it would behave on metal walls. It is common use in many of the renovation projects shown on the tube. The stuff really sticks to everything you do not want it to stick to. Gives excellent R value and will seal up any holes.

   Don

4. 
   loucarabasi | Dec 31, 2007 01:04pm | #4

   Mr fingers, I had foam insulation sprayed in my shop and its working just great. Like the other guy said- You have to make sure your sealed up real good. I think on steel you have to use closed cell foam. I have a good friend that works for Key insulation His name is Pat Franklin (his direct line is 609-352-0343) Drop him a line- He'll answer all your qeustions. He's a good guy and happy to help!!!

   Hope this helps, Lou

   p.s. the foam is not real attractive you may wanna cover it up with sheetrock and I think you have to spray it with a fire proofer if you keep it exposed

5. 
   chrisn | Jan 01, 2008 10:03am | #5

   This past September I had sprayed polyurethane foam put in the attic of my 57 year old home.  The installation is known as an unvented attic.  Do some research on this with a metal building.  It's kind of pricey, but the insulation results are fantastic.  My heater (forced air, oil furnace) runs fully half as much as it used to.  The combination of stopping the air flow and R-value (an overrated term, because so much heated air tends to escape many buildings due to what is known as the "stack effect", rendering "R-value" useless) is hard to beat.  I have a small 2 bedroom, one bath, <1500 sq. ft. rancher, and the installation for me cost $3400.00.  But the liveability is superb.  Best $3400.00 I ever spent.

   Chris

   Richmond, VA

1. 
   10fingers | Jan 03, 2008 07:46am | #6

   Thanks to all that replied,

   I will compare pricing on the spray foam and the blanket type.  Money is an issue at this time.   There are several spray foam companies in the area.  I would have to apply the blanket type myself.  I don't need to be 10' off the ground as I have had a broken back in the past and don't need any problems with that.

   I am having the shop wired really well by a contractor.  Lights everywhere and plugs every 8 feet.  I am even wiring for a heavy duty welder that I hope to purchase in the future.  

   It is hard to come from a shop that was built with 2x6 walls, insulated and sheet rocked.  But I am going from a  12x16 shop to a 20x30 shop with a carport also.

   I guess that I have to make concessions to get a larger space.

1. 
   SNMARK | Jan 04, 2008 03:44pm | #7

   I Would also recommend 4 square outlet boxes every 4 ft. and also at bench hight wherever
   you might want benches or work surfaces, also, don't forget extra 240 for the future equip.
   that will surely fill even the largest shop. Extra Outlets are usually only o few dollars at wiring time but a big expense later. If necessary just put in the spare boxes and leave the receptacles for when you need them.Also just an idea ( not to piss-off your electrician ). Just have him do the rough-in or whatever you really feel uncomfortable with and finish the rest yourself. If you've never done
   electrical it's not hard to learn and you'll probably save enough to pay for insulation and then
   some.Good Luck!