Hi all,
I am slowly building a tiny workshop that needs to retract into about 1/4 of a small garage. I am planning 2 or 3 mobile cabinets and have some questions about the best way. Obviously the easiest is to put locking casters on, but I have concerns about the stability of this since the only contact points will be where the wheelmeets the floor. The mobile bases from the likes of Rocker and others seem more oriented to tools, and are kind of pricey. Does anybody make casters that you can screw onto a leg or cabinet side that will flip down or up with a lever? I’m sure I have seen this, but I can’t find it now to save my life. Am I over reacting about regular locking casters?
Thanks for any advice.
Jeremy (San Diego, CA)
Replies
Norm built a work table that might have what you need. The wheels on each end are on a board that is hinged along one edge. When the board is horizontal the wheels contact the floor. The board is held horizontal by two vertical boards hinged at the top. When the vertical boards are pulled together by a piece of rope, the horizontal board pops up, dropping the table a fraction of an inch onto legs. It's tough to explain fully, but along with this photo I hope is enough to figure it out.
In the photo the near wheels are raised, the far wheels are down on the floor, held down by the vertical boards.
http://www.newyankee.com/getphoto2.cgi?0207.jpg
Jeremy you can get casters that have both lockable wheels and lockable swivels. If you have these at all four corners your (whatever) is not going to move.
Edited 3/30/2005 12:43 am ET by POLARSEA1
I mounted all my shop on casters . What i did was make up frames of 1 1/2 x 1/8 angle iron overlaped and welded in the corners overall size slightly bigger tha machine base . I then welded 2 fixed and two swivel casters to the frames . I found that my bases work are stronger and work slicker tha the ones i bought.
I recently moved my shop from the garage to another bldg on my property aaaas it rained one day and the yard was frozen the next ,moved everything myself slicker than snot on a doorknob. List included ts , bandsaw , thickness planer ,edge planer, spindle sander on cupboard, router on router cabinet drill press on ridged stand , 2 mitre saws on mitre saw stands and maple work bench on wheels (about 200lbs stripped & empty} all done on wheels in january. ps my shop has a rug one the floor & I find equipment moves nicely over it & its easy on your feet
Thanks everyone,
It sounds like I was wrong about locking casters providing a stable base. I think I'll go for the 2 non-swivel and 2 that lock both the wheel and the swivel.
Thanks again, Jeremy
I have several tools on 3" 4 wheel swivel lockable wheel & caster with no problem. I will be putting all my tools on 4 swiveling locking wheels, you can get them from Grizzly. Mounting the tools this way they are easier to move in a small area. My mechanics tool box has fix wheels on one end & swiveling on the other & is a bear to maneuver in a small area.
Edited 4/16/2005 11:42 pm ET by Bart
I agree! 4 swivel is the way to go! And the double locking ones from Grizzly are good. Certainly the price for these is best at Grizzly. I found that they don't wiggle at all when locked. I had to use heavier duty non locking cast iron casters for my bench because the ones from Grizzly weren't strong enough. I had to figure out another way immobilize the bench after I got it where I wanted it (see above). But the red tired double locking casters from Grizzly are used for most everything else in my shop.
My delta bandsaw came with a 3-wheel device.
Two "fixed" wheels and the 3rd wheel on a pedal that is easily lowered or raised. When you press down on the pedal, forces the swivel wheel down and it lifts the whole unit off of friction pads (rubber feet) and the weight transfers to the three wheels.I "duplicated" this approach with my router table - works quite well and I made it all with scrap and spare casters. The weight of the table keeps the unit from moving.The router table is not that heavy, were I to do a tablesaw or heavier device, I'd need to use a steel frame (angle iron) and appliance feet (the kind you find on the bottom of a washing machine they are threadded and adjustable), bigger casters and a longer foot pedal to get the leverage.Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Geremy I know how you feel. I just recently bought my first house and for the first time I actually have my own space to work. How ever unfortunately it is not that big and I am forced to use some small space as well. Thanfully though I have been reading and developed quite a library of magazines and books that have dealt with the issue of small shop space. Id like to recomend one that has some cool ideas for your dilema.
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/category.jhtml?categoryid=/templatedata/wood/category/data/Wood_Magazine_Shop_Tours.xml
Just give the ideas a once over maybe some of them might appeal to you. Later Centaur
Germey,
Take a look at the Shop Tour on my website. I built the cabinets for my planer and two sanders; each of them has 3" fixed casters on one end and locking swivel casters on the other end. I got the casters at HD. In use, I rarely lock the casters but I also don't run 12' lumber through the planer either; cut it to rough length first. Both cabinets are very stable. My tablesaw and jointer are on HTC mobile bases.
Regards,
Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
Click Here if you're interested in a good,inexpensive website host.
Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
I have similar problems in my space. A few notes:
Grizzly had the best prices on double locking casters that I could find.
Consider lifting the cabinet/tool/whatever off the casters when stationary. Harbor freight has a nifty foot operated jack that lifts the object off its casters. The call it a shop equipment floor lock( http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92107). Get one for each caster. 12 bucks each and pretty much worth it. They also have a good selection of cheaper heavy duty casters.
Please consider putting four swiveling casters on your equipment instead of two fixed and two swiveling. In a compact space, the extra mobility is truly useful. It helps avoid interminable :three point turns".
Best of luck!!
I built a modified version of this cart for my Jet contractor's saw.
http://www.binkyswoodworking.com/TblSawCab.html
I used griz swivel casters all around. I didn't use the jacks but installed screw levelers at the corners because my saw is usually stationary.
I remember seeing that plan in wood. I was wondering what purpose the base served because it never touched the ground and all the weight was born by the casters. Can you clarify? What is that base for? Is it merely a stiffener for the platform? Apart from not understanding that, I think I'll build something similar for my General Contractor saw. I currently have it on a modified Shop Fox rolling platform and I have to re-level the side table and wings every time I take it off its wheels. A pain!
That's exactly what it's for, a stiffener. The platform is 3/4" MDF so it's needed. If you do a search at the Woodnet forums you'll see several different versions of this same saw station. I'm using 1 1/2" fir plywood as a base but I still used some stiffeners.
I think I would modify the design somewhat to make the stiffener more integral to the cabinet and not rely on the strength of the attachment scheme as much. Current design puts that joint in tension with the unsupported cantilever of MDF used to hold the caster. It requires too much of both the MDF and the joint between the base and the MDF. Sorry, I digress.
A further question:
When you do move this cabinet, do your levelers get hung up on scraps or saw dust piles or the like?
Tony I'm just now finishing this thing. The levelers won't hang up, even in my shop. Here's what I'm using:
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=41865&cat=3,40993,41283&ap=1
I going to slide blocks of wood under the levelers.
As to why they designed it that way, I can only guess that it's because they were combining several different plans. I'm sure there is a better way. I used a peice of 1 1/2" ply that has been cluttering up my shop for years.
Looks like a good piece of hardware. Gee I wish I could find a source for 1.5 inch fir plywood! Sounds like a perfect base for the cab!
I worked in a ply mill 16 yrs ago, we were able to buy the falldowns (rejects) for almost nothing. The on grade stuff (in those thick panels) was very expensive even back then, a second mortgage would probably be in order at today's prices.
Tony' I have to disagree on your statement, use all swivel casters. With two fixed at one end,two swivels at the other end, the tool or cabinet can be steered easier than with four swivels. With four swivels, many times the swivels are in the wrong direction when starting to push. Then you have to kick them to a straight line with your foot ,or pull the cart back and forth until you are heading in the right direction.
That's why you see two swivels and two fixed on 95% of store carts and even shopping carts.Drywall carts sometimes have four swivels, usually two.Can't think of any other commercial type of cart or similar tool that uses four swivels.Even in a compact space I believe this would be the best arrangement of castors.
mike
Parking my ten foot long by three foot wide bench along one wall of my 24' by 24' shop with two fixed and two swiveling casters took an hour to get exactly where I wanted it. When I switched to four swiveling casters it took two minutes to get it exactly where I wanted it. This bench weighs 1500 pounds. If I had a larger space I would use casters as you suggest. If you need commercial corroboration for design innovation you will not find it. That is why it is innovation.
But this use of swiveling casters is not innovative in the least:
Look at carts for sale at MacMaster - Carr. Look at carts for sale at Grainger. Look at bread delivery racking carts. All have four swiveling casters.
That said - arrange your casters as you wish!
Edited 4/6/2005 8:51 pm ET by Tony
Well, this has turned into a thriving discussion. Enjoyable and informative, but not exactly what I was originally looking for. I finally found the retractable casters that I had in my head. Alas they are too pricey for me and my little hobby shop. I still think I have seen something similar but cheaper, but then, some days I feel lucky to remember my name.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3703
Love the Saw/ router Cabinet. I am building something similar, but just for the saw as my space won't allow something that big.
Thanks to all,
Jeremy (San Diego, CA)
I'm betting with bolts and hardwood, you could make an imitation of that device in an afternoon...Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
I purchased those wheelie things for my table saw -- Thieves stole the saw -- but that's a whole other thread.
Any way -- The wheelie things worked pretty well with a few caveats. The casters and the yoke that held them were too small and light weight. The smallest bit of debris would cause the casters to hang up. And the metal yoke would bend and twist alarmingly. I do note that all four casters swivel! ;-)
I suspect that with hardwood, bolts, a few casters and an afternoon you could do better. Perhaps much better.
I am currently using regular heavy duty swivel casters on my equipment. I immobilize the equipment by having the casters mounted on blocks that are hinged. The blocks swing under the equipment when I need to move it and swing out of the way when I want it stationary. The only hitch with this arrangement is that one needs to be able to lift one end of the equipment to allow the casters to drop into place. Not a problem for me but it could be I guess.
Best of luck!
Hi Tony,
I have been looking for a way to install casters on my workbench, I need something like what you have, can you explain how you installed yours?
Thanks,
Dick38
Hey Dick:
My bench is 10 feet long by 32 inches wide. It weighs approximately 1500 lbs fully loaded. The structure, separate from the top is, a dovetailed carcass made of fin birch. The base is two frames mortised and tennoned together of clear Douglas fir 4 x 4.
That said you may understand why I designed my system as I did. Note that when I built the bench I was not aware of the shop equipment floor lock available from Hfreight ( ITEM 92107-0VGA). Had I to do it over again I might well have incorporated those into the design.
I got four Heavy duty cast iron wheeled, rubber tired 6 inch by two inch swivel casters. I mounted them on Doug fir blocks that were the same size as the caster mounting plate (same footprint if you will) with four grade eight bolts and nuts each. The blocks were the same thickness as the base frames.
I I installed hinges on the four lower corners of the bench and mortised them into the blocks on the side opposite the caster. This way, when the bench is lifted sufficiently, the casters can swing into place under the cabinet. I made sure that the base frames of 4x4 material would not interfere.
I then got two trailer tongue jacks rated at 1000 pounds each from H freight (on sale 17 bucks each!). I painted these with appliance spray paint to match the cabinet as well as possible and then mounted one on each end of the bench. They are mounted so that when the bench is on its base the wheel from the jack is 1/4 inch off the floor. There is an 11 inch travel with these jacks, so it is enough lift to allow the casters to swing into place. I lift one end and swing the casters down and then lower the bench on to the casters. I then do the same at the other end. I use strategically placed rare earth magnets to hold the casters in either the up or down position.
Harbor freight also has a $25 trailer drop leg jacks (ITEM 47267-0VGA) that look better and would probably work better rated at 3500 pounds each. They were out of stock on these when I went to get them so I wound up with the trailer tongue jacks instead. The nice thing about the drop legs is that they could be easily removed from the bench when they weren't needed. This would improve the appearance a lot.
The first design criteria for this bench was that it had to be 41.5 inches high ( my ideal work height) and then it had to be rock solid when in use but also transportable. If I were to redesign for the floor locks (mentioned above) I would have to accommodate that height into my design. With those You can just mount the caster under the bench and then install a floor lock next to each one at the right height to lift the bench off the casters when necessary. I would have used six on my bench with six casters.
Note : the hinges are four heavy duty 3 1/2 inch door hinges mortised into the bottom of the cab and the blocks so that when the casters are in the up position, the hinge is open ( i.e. it lies flat and the leaves aren't touching except at the hinge pin)
Edited 4/18/2005 1:43 pm ET by Tony
Hi Tony,
My bench is 8 feet long by 32 inches wide. It weighs approximately 600 lbs fully loaded, I have a mdf top about 4.5 " thick and 4x4 doug fir framing.
I have the 1.5" box tubing with the holes in mounted across the ends and the casters are 4" mounted on a plate and welded to 1.25" box tubing that slides inside the larger larger size. I take a 4x4 and pry each end up one at a time and slide the casters on . Works ok but can be a pain.
Thanks for your reply.
Dick38
The only hassle in your system seems like the prying up part. Consider attaching a jack instead. It's a bit safer ( I think) and less effort. It does add a little time.
regular locking casters... MY 2 cents.. They dont work! Well, the cheap casters..
May as well get some good ones.. Good is they LOCK!.. A bit expensive but.. Make sure the casters LOCK!..
Just me...
I forgot.. Look at the RIDGID Table Saw.. Home Depot... Just some casters and angle iron.. Easy to COPY! and works!
Edited 4/12/2005 12:52 pm ET by Will George
yo. i have a few sets of the casters that double lock and there great but they can still wobble a bit. when i get back home ill be on the quest for a new bench as well. i did some research and found these little feet that raise up and down by stepping on a little pedal. it will allow me to have my casters under the bench and these feet at the outer edges. it picks it up about 3/4 inch i think and puts the bench on 4 solid feet. there about 20 bucks each if i remember correctly. ill call them on mon and get you a link to them. i dont know what there called so i cant find them on the web right now.
Tmaxxx
Urban Workshop Ltd
Vancouver B.C.
cheers. Ill buy.
You can get the same thing (or something similar) from Harbor freight tools for twelve bucks USD. See Here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92107
I put my planer on wheels with locking casters. Suggest getting the biggest you can find, mounting them to 2 by 4's or 4 by 4's, and bolt the machine to them. The oversize casters do several things. First they are very stable, they lock very firmly and they raise the machine to a more ergonomically correct height (this is true for those of us that are tall). Northern (http://www.northerntool.com/) has them very cheap. I bought a set; 6" steel wheel with bearings loading capacity 1200 lbs each for about $8 each.
I agree! The biggest caster you can use is advisable. This will enable rolling over small obstacles like extension cords or debris that happens to be on your otherwise spotless shop floor. ;-) --- great price on the casters Bioman!
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