Would this technique be safe???
forestgirl
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
OK, guys ‘n gals, there’s been a little talk about tablesaw safety lately, so I want to ask you about this. I made a jig for cutting slots in mitered corners to accomodate splines therein. The book/articles I’ve read about this direct the user to slide the jig along the fence to cut the slot, thusly:
However, I’m wondering if it would be safe to clamp the jig to the fence, positioned in just the right place (front-to-back wise), and lower the frame down the guides in the jig, thusly:
How stupid am I being? Remember, Monday’s my day off, I’m not paid to think. ROFL!!!
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Edited 3/11/2003 12:55:18 AM ET by forestgirl
Edited 3/11/2003 12:58:52 AM ET by forestgirl
Replies
Neat action figures!
I built that same jig(almost) and slid it along without hurting myself but I think the stationary setup would allow you to cover more of the blade. Only the part doing the spline needs to be showing - safer eh?
Truth be told, it's lazyness that's motivating this possible change in technique. If I go with the "slide entire jig along fence" technique, I'm going to end up attaching an upside-down U-channel to stablize (fits over the fence). Otherwise, the whole thing's too tippy.
The fix-the-jig and slide-the-workpiece-up'n'down technique is stable and much faster because I don't have to remove and replace 2 clamps for each corner done. However, if anyone out there sees a safety problem, I'll not do it. Just seems odd I've never seen it in a book or magazine article. Is it possible I've had an original idea?? Naaaah.
PS: Thanks for the compliment. I didn't use a tripod, so the lighting change is from a bit of a bump/change in angle. Practicing for impending construction of my retail web site. Just a quickie with PaintShop Pro and Jasc Image Robot.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 3/11/2003 1:11:30 AM ET by forestgirl
Edited 3/11/2003 1:18:36 AM ET by forestgirl
Personally I feel more comfortable sliding work across the blade than dropping it on it. If I were to make a jig to drop the work onto the blade I would make certain the work fit snugly and couldn't slide to one side or the other whilst getting it on the blade. Come to think of it it'd take me longer to set it up so that I felt comfortable :)
"curved bottom on spline groove" is something I never thought of when I voted for the fixed jig, There is always something I do not think of and that is why I like this forum.
It may seem troublesome now but once you have this jig built to your satisfaction it will already be there for all your future miter-splines.It's not what you chew, it's how you chew it
Yes, it's not hard to see why you wouldn't want to slide that setup along the fence. Have you thought of mounting it on a sled instead? I think that would give you even more stability than clamping it to the fence.
This is a pretty standard jig for cutting spline slots. I've seen the same basic version at least a handful of places. When I tested it tonight, it was pretty difficult to keep it steady and snug against the fence, hence the conclusion that I'd need to make a U-channel to attach to the back, which would ride over the fence and keep everything snug and at 90 degrees.
Even with that channel though, I think sliding into the blade presents possible kickback problems. When the cut is finished, I either have to use one hand to turn off the motor, or slide the assembly back, which I don't particularly like.
The shallow height of the blade makes the idea of lowering the stock down a bit more comfortable than it might otherwise be, I suppose. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The standard setup I've seen is to indeed have a U around the fence that holds it snug then clamp the work to the jig and push it through. As far as kickback is concerned I havent experienced much when using sleds, that being said my switch is positioned so I can hit it and turn it off with my left knee easily
mike
Edited 3/11/2003 1:54:17 AM ET by mstens
That switch extension is something I've yet to build, but it's rapidly moving up the priority list!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hello Forestgirl,
Sliding the jig along the fence with work piece clamped to it is definitely the safer of the two options.
Plunging the wood into the blade at the 45 degree angle will most likely create a blowout on your beautifully mitered corner. The jig you show doesn't have a backer board wide enough to support the cut, and increases the blowout potential. The natural inclination would be to slowly slide the wood down the jig into the blade. The obvious reactions would occur - engage the blade to slowly, and the wood burns; move too quickly and the blade will cause the wood to potentially ricochet off of it. Another dilemma cause by plunging the wood would be lifting the piece back off of the blade after the cut. If there is even the slightest deviation as the piece is lifted, you will end up with a slightly misshapen and oversized slot. I also believe that physics are against you when holding the work piece to the jig. The jig has a high center of gravity, and the wood may be harder to control in that position. Lastly, when making this cut, the table saw's guard is off, so there is nothing protecting you if the blade deflects the work piece unexpectedly.
I would recommend the sliding jig method, but if you'd like to give the plunge style a go, I would modify the current jig. By making the down ramp the width of the work piece, and by adding an outside panel, you will be reducing the chances of blowout because the piece is supported, and and you will be protected from the blade as it will be spinning on the inside of the added panel (a panel on either side of the "V").
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Hi Dan, thanks for your thoughts. Your were typing at the same time I was composing my answer to Mr. Uncle. I'll contemplate your recommendations and get back to you on how it goes! 'nite.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG,
How would it work if you raised the blade in to it? That way you could clamp the board down also. Just a thought.
Don
Now aren't you terribly clever?!? An excellent variation on the theme. I've got some some of those fancy clamps around somewhere. Hmmmmm, gotta think about that one.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I wouldn't want to try raising the blade into a stationary workpiece if for no other reason than because you'd have to have an awfully precise hand, (or an equally precise ts elevation wheel with digital readout), to be sure of raising the blade the same amount for each corner. Otherwise, trying to get that height just right might take more time than building a one-time U-shaped jig to fit over the rip fence, or a sled that moves in the miter slots. Then again, if the dimension of the splines isn't that crucial, then maybe it would work fine.
FWIW, I also use a push-through type jig for splined frame corners, and I've never had any tipping problem (but maybe I just haven't tried doing sufficiently big and heavy frames); I spring-clamp the frame to the jig, and push the thing through using a handle I attached to the side of the jig (one hand on handle, one hand on frame).
View Image
". . .and only the stump or fishy part of him remained."
Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township
Norm
do you also use a stop on the fence to prevent you pushing the jig all the way past the blade?
No, I simply stop pushing after it's cleared the blade. At the same time, I've got the advantage of a cut-down riving knife that runs in the kerf, so the jig can't move sideways even after it's past the blade. ". . .and only the stump or fishy part of him remained."
Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township
When I looked at your jig, my first reaction was that it would be very easy to push it right through the blade - I had a vision of the blade coming out the back of the jig and cutting your left thumb off !
Edited to insert missing adverbs and prepositions
Edited 3/12/2003 7:35:47 AM ET by ian
Well, obviously if you place your left thumb in the kerf where the blade emerges, it'll get cut ^o^. That's the reason for the handle. In fact, this particular jig is my first effort, and I've only used it for building a dozen frames thusfar (still got my thumbs). But on the next one I think I'll build a bit larger handle. The main point I consider about safety, though, is that the handle functions not only for pushing the jig through the blade but also for pressing it against the fence, so the operator's hand has to be on the side (and thus "out of the kerf zone") for it to function as designed. --Also, as I noted earlier, the kerf runs in a cut-down riving knife that's the same height as the blade, and that helps keep it stable. I've never felt particularly unsafe using it yet (and I'd quit using it if it made me feel unsafe).
". . .and only the stump or fishy part of him remained."
Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township
Neat flick, Jamie - but how did you manage to get the stop action on the saw blade? (grin)
As for your question - analyzing it in terms of geometry, there doesn't seem to be a situation where you'd be involved in a 'climbing' cut, that is having the work piece presented to the upturning edge of the blade. From the looks of it, the blade would always be turning against the workpiece and the workpiece is supported by the jig.
That said, however, you're still working with the rather delicate (looking) frame sliding it down the vertical surface of the jig (fixture). Controlling the far side securely looks like it might be problematic.
Building a jig to fit over the saw's rip fence doesn't really take all that much time and effort. The one I've built so far was made easier with the tip I read in (another) WW mag that suggested using paper or playing card shims between the vert. pieces and the spacer to achieve the 'just right' sliding fit. Beyond that, I think I'll opt to build any more saw jigs such that they ride in the miter gauge slots ala cutoff sleds. They're pretty simple to put together as well.
Finally - as we've all read; if it doesn't feel safe, don't do it. Asking the question leads me to believe that you're not sure. You've demonstrated your skills in woodworking; I'd trust your intuition.
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Wow, lots to responses to as I dip into the caffein this morning! I'll put 'em all in this message.
Dennis: welcome back buddy, how ya been? Ha, stop action, yeah. Figured having the blade running and reaching for the teeny button on the camera wasn't a great idea, LOL. U-track: yep, I know it's no big deal, built a couple already, but the thought of a lighter, less bulky jig was intriguing. Safety: It's not that it "feels" dangerous. Intuitively, it actually seems safer to me than pushing across into the blade. The far side: Yes, would have to be sure that was steady. [Hey, update on the Locust: I'll be going over on May 16th, and will go inspect the orchard and take pics. Will get back in touch around the 20th]
Wolfsbear: Yep, I didn't think about the curved kerf right away. Setting the blade for depth of cut is actually pretty easy, though.
Norm: Just as I was sinking into bed last night, I realized that raising the blade was out for the accuracy reason you cite. It would be different if it was a through cut. I like your nice solid block! I can see big advantages with the kerf going through the block and a lower profile in general. I might be a little nervous about that handle on the bottom -- is there any possibility of the blade exiting out the back? Thanks for taking the time to post the pic!!
Sgian: [ahhh, I'm glad "Sgian" is back] Hmmmmm, well don't have a shaper. Guess I'd better not get any ideas about putting my Freud Ultimate Cutoff blade on the ol' PC690, huh? Too funny.
Sprucegum: I agree with the sentiments about the forum. Yep, I'll probably just slap the channel on this morning and get going on planing and sizing stock.
Have a great day y'all. Thanks!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 3/11/2003 12:11:32 PM ET by forestgirl
I'm in the minority here, I guess. The curved cut might be an advantage. Given the 10" diameter of the blade, the "dip" in the middle would be slight. And, importantly, the edges,which areall that one would see, will be nice and tight. A bit of dust, etc., in the mortise would have a place to live happily, without creating an unsightly gap at the edge.
However, that said, I would stll slide it. I think it would be faster. I wouldn't bother with clamps on the stock. I would set up a vertical fence, clamped or serewed to the reg. fence, and slide the jig flush with the clamped aux. vertical fence. Just make sure the aux. fence can take a bit of pressure. Probably good to clamp the regular fence to the back of the table for stability.
Happy joining.
S4S,
The first thing I thought of with FG's jig was the curvature of the cut...but then like you, thought that might not be so bad. So if I think the curve is okay...why not just use a biscuit cutter? ..with two 45 wedges clamped to the sides and I can raise and lower the PC...?
When the piece is run all the way over the blade the kerf is straight. You're right, if I was willing to settle for a curved slot, a BJ would work, but the biscuit's wouldn't look real great after staining, heh heh.
Biscuit joining would be an option (for unseen slots) except that some of the frames are pretty thin and none are very wide, have no plans to buy a new BJ to accomodate. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Yeah - I just thought you had a super fast strobe on your camera and you had the setup automated with a bunch of servo motors. (haha)
Indeed, the circular bottom of the saw kerf became patently obvious once it was pointed out. Odd how things like that don't appear until someone takes off our blinders!
The good news is that by May I should have some time to be thinking seriously about hauling locust logs around. Don't forget - I now have a 1 ton truck and a 14' 10,000 lb capacity car trailer. So we can 'think big!'
Do you know anyone with a portable saw mill? I seem to remember you mentioned you knew someone that could do sawyer work.
...........
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
You prefer the abrasive, fat-mouthed, controversial Sgian Dubh to the meek, mild mannered, conciliatory, RichardJ? Ha, ha. Slainte.Website The poster formerly known as RichardJ-- now Sgian Dubh-- again.
FG
I've used all three methods: dropping the workpiece down, sliding the jig, and routing with a slotcutting bit. The router was the cleanest and most precise, but too much work setting up for me. Now, I'm getting even lazier and using the safest, cleanest and quitest, method - a handsaw. Just a couple of storkes and I've got a decent slot. Especially good on the small, thin peices like a box lid or frame. That is if the small kerf is enough.
Give the hardest job to the laziest man, and he'll figure out the easiest way to get it done. - Henry Ford
Stan
Stan, the is to someday be a part of a small, periodic production run, so I may go to the router yet, as the set-up time would be well spent. The need is for a bigger spline than a handsaw would produce.
Today, I made a pusher that goes across the bottom "V" of the workpiece, with a 45-degree backer and provides: protection for my hands, leverage down to the table and against the fence all at the same time. Also made progress on a slightly different take on the splines, which I think I'll use for the next two cases I make. We'll see if it works the way I'm hoping.
Thanks y'all. Keep 'em coming if you have anything more to say!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Cool animation at the beginning.
I recommend modifying the jig to ride as a sled AND fit over the fence.Steelkilt Lives!
Your jig is correct, sgian is right... stick with the known methods and you will be just fine. Drop and cut... yikes!
Guess I'd better not get any ideas about putting my Freud Ultimate Cutoff blade on the ol' PC690, huh? Too funny.
Not so, you could use the same sort of blade as used in a biscuit jonter - Makita even make a "saw" blade for their biscuiter. Or the blade Uncle Dunc refers to. If you mount one in a router just select a slow rotation speed of about 8000 rpm.
"Not so, you could use the same sort of blade . . ." Same sort, yes, but just envision a 10-inch blade on a small fixed-base router! Still too funny, IMO.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG,
The Spline cutting setup is a great one. I've done that with picture frames and small boxes that are able to be set in a jig I bolt to my miter. Yours is a larger jig and probably a lot more stable. I cut a 90 out of a block of waste oak (4x6 or so) and saved the off-cut. Then use a couple of screws to secure the offcut in the new groove. (See half-baked ascii drawing below.)
I- ____ /-I
I V/ I ------> Moves thru the blade attached to miter this direction
L________I
The upside is I move the inner "V" in or out of the picture to determine the location of the spline in the frame or box. The downside is it is too wobbly for production work.
How's about an orthographic photo of your jig to see how it is assembled? Please?Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
That's a pretty cool jig, but it seems to me that you'll wind up with a curved kerf. It may be hard to guage the depth of cut. Other than that, I it ought to work fine, just don't drop the piece on the blade too quick, it may kick.
fg, it won't work as you intend, unless you intend to make curved splines to fully fit the slot, a point wolfsbear also noted in post 11138.14 before. Therefore, the conclusion is that to keep the spline making simple, the jig will have to pass across the blade to create a flat bottomed slot.
This is an operation where a spindle moulder (shaper) fitted with a saw blade shines, using essentially the same jig , for obvious reasons-- no need to reach over the blade for one, which can be guarded well (made reasonably inaccesible) for two, and no temptation to slide the jig back across the blade after the cut for a third, and there are one or two more I'll let you puzzle out for yourself, ha, ha. Slainte.
Website The poster formerly known as RichardJ-- now Sgian Dubh-- again.
>> This is an operation where a spindle moulder (shaper) fitted with a saw blade shines ...
And you don't even have to buy a shaper to use this technique. A 4" diameter by 1/8" thick slotting saw blade and a 1/2" arbor would set you up to do it on a router. My usual metalworking tool source is MSC. Their (3 year old) catalog shows just such a blade and arbor for less than $40.
Some people would say 4" is too big a tool to run on a router, but we're not talking a lot of mass here. A saw blade is much lighter than a panel raising bit or lock miter bit.
Jamie,
There's another option for this that is probably safer and which may provide you some benefit during initial glue-up of the frame.
If you get one of the slot cutters for arouter you can cut a slot in the 45 degree faces before you do the glue-up. You can then cut splines that go into this slot and glue up everything at the same time. The spline can have the grain running eithere parallel to the joint (not as strong) or perpendicular to the joint (much stronger). The spline should assist in glue-up, as it would act as an alignment device.
There's no worry about blow out, no worry about a saw blade, etc.
I use this method in making the mitered outside border of my chess boards and it works extremely well.
John
A guy named Roger W. Cliffe wrote a book called "Table Saw Techniques". It's probably a little basic for most of the folks here, but he give plans for what he calls a universal jig.
It rides on a cleat sized to fit the miter slot of your saw. the distance from the blade is adjustable. It sits flat on the table, so there is little danger of tipping.
I have used this jig to cut splines (feathers, keys, whatever you want to call them) in mitered picture frame corners for a couple years, with great success.
I have used it with less success to cut tenons.
If you are interested in more details, I would be glad to send you more info, or plans. It's not a big project. You will need some MDF (or plywood) a few t-nuts and machine screws.
Jon
Thanks, Jon, for the offer. I've got a couple of plans for such a universal jig but for the time being am making individual jigs as I need them.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
For about ten years, i used a sliding sled to cut thousands of key slots per year for picture frames and boxes, but at one point i looked at the set up and realized i'd been really dumb and lucky. Draping oneself across the table with all those moving parts suddenly looked like a good way to lose more moving parts of my own.
I drop the pieces down these days. I cut a 45* notch almost all the way through the side of a 2x6, run it over the blade to make a slot, clamp it to the fence where i think the notch will be centered, turn on the saw to check it from the side, drop a test piece down, measure the length of the slot on each face of the miter, then adjust the jig forward or back and necessary and reclamp. The blade is covered in use; it looks kinda like a stationary version of Norm's jig, mostly.
"Dropping a piece down" doesn't literally mean dropping it, but sliding it down the ramp of the side of the notch nearest to me. I get a lot less splintering out the exit side this way bec i can control the rate of feet much more easily and have both hands on the frame/box, so balance/stability is not a problem at all. I've never experienced any sort of kickback problem, and results are much more standardized.
It's true that there is a slight curve to the bottom of the kerf. This serves to seat the key better at the edges, rather like allowing a bit of room at the bottom of a M&T joint, no? It doesn't affect the strength of the joint whatsoever, bec the important glue surfaces aren't at the bottom 1/64th of the kerf on 45* grain, but at the the sides, where the flat grain is.
Don't use poly glue for the keys, BTW. If you use yellow (i do) be sure it is warm enough to make the drips dry dark yellow. If too cold, you'll see the light yellow glue line around the key. Wait a couple days to sand it, until the water goes out of the area, or the key and the box won't be in plane when it does.
forestgirl,
You're one of the most knowledgeable posters out here;surely you must know the answer already?
Hi JP, thanks for the compliment. My knowledge is way ahead of my experience, as I spent a lot of time "armchair woodworking" before actually having shop space and being able to work wood.
The input I needed was posted pretty early in this thread, but as is common at Knots, posts are still coming in and providing interesting information about how different WWers do things. The reason I asked the question in the first place was because I had never seen in print the technique of fixing the jig and sliding the workpiece down into the blade. Felt it was best to ask if there was a safety reason.
At this point, I'd be comfortable making the splines either way. I have modified my jig a bit to make it more stable and safe for the sliding method, and will use that for the time being.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG,
I don't remember if anyone suggested this, but here it goes. I did a number of small boxes and wanted to strengthen the miters, but the only decent blade I had was Freud Combo that would not leave a flat bottom. My solution was to use my router table and a slot cutting bit of the right thickness (3/16ths). I then made a sled much like yours, but the sled laid on the table with the 2 45 degree miters facing the fence. I'll try to draw it. It seems that it might be the ticket for your frames as long as your spline don't need to be too large. Worked very well for me. Once around the bottom, flip the box, once around again, raise the bit, around one more time.
Dr. Bill
Thanks Bill. Yes, the router is in the back of my mind, way safer me thinks. The frame you saw in the pics was just something I threw together for testing. The actual frames will be ~24" wide and 30-some-odd long, making balancing a bit of a treat. Seems like especially with smaller frame, where a more delicate slot would be in order, the router would be just the ticket.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
MLCS has these bits, with different sizes of both cutters and bearings. Just a thought. They mount on a single arbor. BTY, this setup would lork either for your style of spline, or the more traditional type where the entire flat of the mitre is mortised, and a cross grain, solid spline is used.
Edited 3/14/2003 11:23:20 AM ET by s4s
Jamie: Jackplane states your one of the most knowledgeable posters, I totaly agree with him.. Plus you & Splintee are the cutest also..<G>....
ToolDoc
FG
Love the pictures, I can't figure out how to get a simple picture or
drawing onto emails.
Regarding the jig.
I have a similar one on it's side.
It goes on my radial arm saw.
I just flip the blade level to the table and can keep the work nice
and flat.
No chance of wobble or movement.
Jeff
My thinker,s off too. but still.Ican,t help but think stationary is safer and more accurate. Later Lefty
Your jig and photos are tres chic!
I use a biscuit joiner mounted to/trapped within a wooden jig. It's fast, easy and safe.
Thanks Paul. Heaven knows my jeans and shirts aren't tres chic so at least something is, LOL.
Thought about biscuits, but needed something for through splines and this stock is pretty thin.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG,
I use an Elu-brand biscuit joiner (side-cutter) that I've had for years. I can use it to safely cut slots of virtually any length, in addition to standard biscuit slots.
What I probably didn't say clearly enough in my previous post is that, on some of my past projects, I used it to cut long, continuous, slots in which I later inserted splines instead of biscuits.
I found it simpler and easier to make a jig for this small machine than the table saw, and it worked very well, as long as I didn't need a slot that was deeper than the biscuit joiner's maximim depth of cut and its kerf-width was a suitable thickness for the splines.
Hope that clarifies -
Paul
Ahhh, sounds cool. How do you do that? Does it involve cutting a series of slots to make one longer one, or do the side-cutters make a completely different kind of cut? forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Ahhh, sounds cool. How do you do that? Does it involve cutting a series of slots to make one longer one, or do the side-cutters make a completely different kind of cut?
FG,
The old Elu is really easy to slide along a surface to make a continuous groove; all you have to do is retract the registration pins and adjust the fence and/or cutter.
Shortly after a project in which I used the Elu to plow a groove all the way around a small plywood table top to which I attached hardwood trim (with a tongue sized to fit the groove), I got the idea of using the Elu to machine the grooves in which exposed splines would be inserted in the miters of a few picture frames.
What I did to achieve acceptable accuracy was to make a simple jig from a quarter sheet of MDO I had laying around the shop; it "captured" the biscuit joiner, leaving the adjustment features intact so I could fine-tune the distance of the blade above the work surface, and accommodated a simple featherboard-type fixture that held the work square and tight to the Elu and flat against the jig.
In many repects, it was similar to using a router table or a horizontal mortiser, albeit with a revolving circular blade instead of a router or mortising bit .
As I recall, I only owned one router at the time and it was out for repair, so I decided to try the biscuit joiner. It was fast and easy to make and use the jig, and, as I recall, tearout was negligible.
Paul
Seems like this technique would be especially useful on a large piece of sheet goods. You are very innovative! (That's a compliment)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie: Just was wondering what brand Biscuit jointer you Have??
ToolDoc
For the elongated slots, my guess is that you push the biscuit jointer into the wood, and then move it along the wood, much like you'd do with a router? Left to right, so the cut isn't a climb cut?
Seems to me this would be easier with a router and a slot cutter. The base of the router is much more likely to "stay in plane" and the cut would be more "accurate". Do you think that'd be true? (I've got the router and a DeWALT biscuit cutter, and think the router would be the way to go if I had to choose between thse two machines.)
John
My jig is almost exactly like yours. I use a couple spring clamps to hold the frame as I push it past the blade.
I use a rip saw blade because this really is a ripping operation AND it will give you a flat bottom cut for the spline. Alternate bevel, combination, and triple chip blades will not work since they don't yield a flat bottom slot. Nice photos of your set-up!
Don
I haven't read the other posts, but in case it wasn't mentioned, by lowering the frame down on to the blade, you will end up burning your way in, and the burnt part will not glue well. Besides that, you could possibly see the burned edge from the outside. This is compaired to sliceing your way through.
Nobody has mentioned this. Splintie, who uses a drop-down technique routinely didn't seem to have that problem. I haven't been out to the shop for a couple days, so no first-hand experience to report.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Sorry, no help here. Dull blade, maybe, or the blade body is rubbing on the sides of the jig, creating heat? Some woods, like cherry, will discolor a bit on the end grain at the botton of the shot using either method, but it has no effect on the look at the surface of the box. When i've been really chicken of splintering, e.g. on a custom box, i've kerfed slowly to avoid it, with no burning problems.
I used to use a router to rout the mortises for my box hinges before i went to the barbed type of "invisible" hinge. I always had trouble with breakout on the exit side of the cut, so i always had to climb cut from the exit side, then send it through the proper way--stressful for me and variable results for the box. I suspect using a router bit to cut keyways might give you the same fits for production work, though i haven't tried it.
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