I am considering using multiple species of hardwood to create a woven table top. The different woods would be cut and glued in s-curve configurations with no defined pattern.
Do I need to be concerned the the different expansion rates of the various species of hardwood?
Are there any other potential issues with making a table top from multiple species of wood in the s-curve configurations?
Replies
Woven s-curve? Can you post a drawing?
Check out this "woven" cutting board on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1bVVpAxF7k
I would not be concerned about using different woods and curves if they are all hardwoods and dry. I would however, for a tabletop , take special care to get a closer to perfect glue joint and use way more pressure than in the video if using PVA glue.
Very interesting end result and should make a distinct table top. I shuddered when I saw the 'thin'strip' jig where he cut kerf filler strips that were between the blade and the fence, but maybe they they are too thin to be transformed to backward shooting arrows.
I also cook and could never bring myself to use something that nice to slice peppers and onions for moqueca. I use bamboo cheapies from Walmart and don't worry about scoring the surface.
I couldn't help but laugh at "could never bring myself to use it". I made a simple cutting board from a left over piece of slab, I can't make myself cut on it either, and it's definitely nothing fancy.
Saw some of the video...did not have that in my head as "woven". It should be a nice look. Fast and smooth cuts at the bandsaw seem to be the key. You may need more help than a roller stand can give you.
To address your original question, wood movement should not be a concern as long as you take normal precautions when attaching the top. Wood movement is negligible over small widths so any variances will be of no significance.
Good luck with that project. The bigger concerns as you scale the project will be handling the larger boards as you try to get smooth cuts through the bandsaw. Large support tables front and rear will be almost essential.
I made 3 tables with tabletops of various species. One 30" square, one 40x25" routed into a circle and my favorite; a special order 36x48 solid Gabon Ebony.
The 1st, 30"-er taught me a great lesson.
The boards were all flat & square. I edge-glued them using Old Brown Glue, the strongest stuff I found for edge-gluing. Then I made the mistake of letting it sit in the shop for a month uncovered and untouched. My client wasn't in a hurry.
I don't know why it surprised me that it bellied (cupped.) Teaches me all I needed to know about not putting aprons on. The other tables came out great cause I put the aprons on once the top dried.
But, to your question: don't fret about using different species if the boards are all dry. Just be sure the edges are flat.
Hope I helped,
Good luck,
Mikaol
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