Replies

1. 
   Dave45 | Nov 25, 2005 05:16pm | #1

   Can you post a picture of your pilasters?  It would be helpful for giving you specific suggestions.

   I use a 10" Makita SCMS (sliding compound miter saw) for almost all my trim work and it's fantastic but you DO have to be VERY careful when cutting small pieces.

2. 
   Shep | Nov 26, 2005 12:29am | #2

   I'm assuming the pilasters are 2" deep, by ? wide?

   I cut the short pieces out of a piece that's long enough to handle safely; anywhere from 12" to 24", depending on the size of the crown.

   I also assemble as much as possible on a bench before installing, using Collins miter clamps. That way, the miters are nice and tight, and the crown just pops into place.

3. 
   hammer1 | Nov 26, 2005 03:01am | #3

   I use a sliding miter saw for just about everything because I have one. I normally make up a backer board and attach it to the saw table and fence. This helps with small pieces and the kerf in the backer lets me know where the cut will be. I adjust the depth of cut stop, so I don't cut completely through the table backer.

   Crown molding is basically a 1x board with most of one face removed. Because of this, crown can warp, making cutting and fitting a challenge. Whenever the crown is small enough to fit under the blade, I prefer to cut it up side down, standing at the angle it will be installed. I'm sure you know how this is done, it's the standard way to cut crown molding. If the corners I'm fitting to are 90°, I set the angle of the saw at 45° with the blade straight up and down at 90°. If I have problems due to the profile being slightly warped, I adjust the way the crown sits on the saw backer, sliding it up or down just a bit rather than changing the 45° angle. Moving it the width of a pencil mark makes quite a difference.

   With short pieces, I'll start by cutting a 45° on one end of a larger piece. The second cut will give the piece I want on the waste side. I prefer not to try to hold a small piece. I'll often anchor it with a strip of masking tape so it doesn't blow away and leave the blade down until it stops. It always helps to do some test cuts and mark the backer board so that you can get the work in the same position. The backer in the picture has a crown stop added, manufacturers of chop saws make adjustable crown stops you can add to the saw. I don't find them to be of much use. It seems no matter how carefully you set them, they are always off just a bit when you get to cutting the keepers. I also try to use consecutive pieces from the same length of molding. Use a sharp blade and a slow deliberate cut. Whether you use a hand box or a power saw, the work has to be held in the correct position so it will not move during the cut.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   jstjr1 | Nov 26, 2005 05:15am | #4

   Thanks. While I have had jobs installing crown, I have never, fortunately, been asked to wrap crown until now. I will try your suggestions.

   thanks, john

4. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 27, 2005 05:23pm | #5

   Not sure if any help but I have a friend that is a 'finish carpenter' and a VERY good one at that...

   He told me once that he cuts several grooves down the back (on a TS) of the stick (Like in rip the length) about 1/4 inch apart.. Not sure how deep.. I'd suppose so it don't show in the front?... Just joking... I think he said about 1/3 the thickness. He also told me he will NOT start a job unless the sticks were in the room for a few days so they sort of equalize a bit...

   He worked on 1 million + custom houses only...

   DAMN.. And he died last week.. Bummer... GREAT folks!