Replies

1. 
   Hoops70 | Mar 27, 2005 01:45am | #1

   I'm going through the same issue.  I am actually picking up some scraps of Corian on Monday.  The dealer is giving them to me free.  I'll let you know how it turns out.

1. 
   MarkRD | Mar 27, 2005 02:36am | #2

   I'll be watching.
   Thanks,
   Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

1. 
   Mardon | Mar 27, 2005 01:30pm | #3

   I have an older model Craftsman and found that Leecraft, Inc. makes zero-clearance table saw inserts for various models including one(Model CR-3) that is made specifically for "Vintage Craftsman" tablesaws. I ordered mine through McFeely's catalog. tel. 1-800-847-7136 or online at: http://www.mcfeelys.com McFeely's item number for 10" belt drives, which is what I have, is ZC1026.

2. 
   cowtown | Mar 28, 2005 06:09am | #4

   I've made my own zero clearance inserts out of 1/4" ply and have used them for 25 years now.

   I make about six at at a time, and use them for different blades. The oldest is in use now is from the first batch, 25 years ago, and it's no longer zero clearance, but it still a functional insert for gross work.

   Why is it only used for gross work now?, well, when I want real zero clearance, I simply fill in the cutting end of the slot with bondo and let it harden, file it flat with a body file, and raise the saw blade up through it.

   The bottom side gets, well, just a tad rough, over the years and comes a time when the insert just has to be retired to coarser service.

   works for me

   Eric in Cowtown

1. 
   MarkRD | Mar 28, 2005 02:54pm | #5

   Do your inserts have the 1/10" rim?Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

3. 
   sedna | Mar 28, 2005 08:37pm | #6

   I posted this idea a few weeks ago, perhaps you did not see it, or maybe thought it was not a good idea. Here it is again:
   I put a piece of tape over the kerf in the insert, turn it upside down and pour epoxy in the back to level. After the epoxy hardens, put the insert back on the saw and raise the balde as if you were making a new zero clearance insert. That is clamp a block of wood over it, start the saw, crank up the blade. Presto, a s good as a new zero clearance, actually better.

   If you want to use the blade at an angle or use a dado blade of course you will need to make some new zero inserts for that.
   Keith
   ps I have done this, it is not just a theory, it works perfectly.

   Edited 3/28/2005 1:38 pm ET by Keith

   
   

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   Edited 3/28/2005 1:39 pm ET by Keith

1. 
   MarkRD | Mar 28, 2005 09:35pm | #7

   I did not see the previous post. Great idea. Unfortunately, I only have one insert - what do I do when I need to make bevel cuts (tip the blade)?I wonder, could cast a whole insert from the epoxy (I've done some plaster casting - but plaster is way too brittle for this application)Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

1. 
   sedna | Mar 29, 2005 07:54am | #9

   To make more inserts I trace the original on ?? (whatever) but my choice is baltic birch plywood. Then bandsaw the inserts a little bigger. Double face tape them to your original and use a flush cutting router bit with roller guide running on the original insert, trim them to the exact same size. If you have a router and bandsaw, this is easy.Then a bit more involved, I used screws from the underside of the plywood , placed where the original height adjusting screws are on the factory insrt, then trial and error screwing them in until the plywood insert is flush with the top. You nay also want to make a little projection on the bottom back to prevent the insert flipping up. Just follow the original.One thing I really like about my epoxy filled insert is the weight. It used to rattle a bit, now it sits quiet. I use it all the time and the plywood ones are for specialty jobs and are somewhat "disposable". Hope this helps. The idea about buying them isn't bad depending on how you value your time.
   Keith

1. 
   MarkRD | Mar 29, 2005 03:31pm | #10

   "placed where the original height adjusting screws are on the factory insrt"Factory screws? My saw is older than that - no adjustment screws. the lip around the edge of the insert is 3/32" (1/10" by my calipers). I have to get that thickness right or the insert won't sit flush. My current insert is a single piece of flat steel 1/10" thick with a spring clip on the out-feed end and a rotating spring clip on the infeed end. I tighten my plate by squeezing the spring clips down a bit...Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

1. 
   sedna | Mar 29, 2005 09:14pm | #11

   Sorry Mark, I have no further suggestions. Good luck.
   Keith

2. 
   MarkRD | Mar 29, 2005 09:28pm | #12

   Thanks for your efforts, I think I'll order one from McFeeleys for vertical cuts and keep my old one for bevel cuts.Curious, what type of expoxy do you use and how bad does it smell when you run the saw blade through it?Thanks,
   Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

3. 
   sedna | Mar 30, 2005 02:07am | #13

   I used West Systems epoxy to make my stock insert into a zero clearance model. I did not notice any really strong smell and of course, it is only once. Another contributer said they use auto body filler, cheap and fast setting.
   Keith

4. 
   RickL | Mar 29, 2005 12:06am | #8

   http://www.wooddynamics.com/models.html

   I think they make one for your saw. I think this is the best type on the market. I could make one but it's actually cheaper to buy it in the long run. I used to make batches of them but after watching the guys make half ####ed ones in the shop I got disgusted and bought them this one. You could make something similar by using aluminum for the support part and make a dovetailed slot that would allow you to quickly switch inserts. Aluminum cuts and routs easily with woodworking tools. I'm not sure if you get the concept but you could make a similar one with stiff plywood (baltic birch would be super) and some aluminum or even brass. Materials wouldn't cost much and then it's your labor if you don't want to buy the Wood Dynmics one.

   
   

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   Edited 3/28/2005 6:46 pm ET by rick3ddd

5. 
   wchips | Mar 30, 2005 06:35pm | #14

   I have aolder craftman table saw about 35 or so years old  I make my zero clerance inserts from 1/4'' ply scraps .  they work farley well make 6 or more at a time when one gets chewed up throw it away.

   Have a nice day Lee

6. 
   patternmaker | Mar 31, 2005 05:31pm | #15

   Mark: I am not familiar with the insert requirements for your machine.Some years ago,I was able to get some leftovers from a bowling alley lane rebuild. The material is plastic sheet,perfectly flat and of exact even thickness. Maybe this will give you some ideas. I milled the depth of the recess on my unisaw to the exact depth of the material thickness.I have a separate insert for each blade used. If you could use a similar material for your inserts,maybe that you could make a rabbeted edge that would
   allow the use of thicker stock.

   Work safely¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

   Thank you,Mr.Croney,where ever you may be.

   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

7. 
   AlanMikkelsen | Apr 03, 2005 10:19pm | #16

   Highland hardware also sells zci's for vintage craftsman saws.  I had a 1953 model for years, and bought several inserts from Highland. 

   Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934,  Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT