STL 96: Tablesaws and Tool Tests
Fine Woodworking contributing editor Roland (a.k.a., Rollie) Johnson talks about how the magazine tests machinery, and drops a few details about his latest head-to-head test: compact cabinet saws. Plus, our favorite techniques of the week, loads of sharpening advice, and yet another cool use of blue tape.
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to [email protected] for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Listen to Previous Episodes
- Shop Talk Live 95: Looking Back Fondly
- Shop Talk Live 94: A Fond Farewell
- Shop Talk Live 93: Nick Offerman’s Dream Shop
- Shop Talk Live 92: Please CLOSE the Bathroom Door
- Shop Talk Live 91: Best Way to Destroy Furniture
- Shop Talk Live 90: Gorilla Glue for Fine Furniture
- Shop Talk Live 89: Workbench Wisdom
- Shop Talk Live 88: Marquetry Master Craig Thibodeau
- Shop Talk Live 87: Shop Talk Live Moving to Video
- Shop Talk Live 86: Furniture Maestro Chris Gochnour–Part II
- Shop Talk Live 85: Furniture Maker Chris Gochnour
- Shop Talk Live 84: One Big Problem with Helical Cutterheads
- Shop Talk Live 83: Outfit Your Shop for Under 2-Grand
- Shop Talk Live 82: Matt Kenney’s Controversial Arrest
- Shop Talk Live 81: Weird Woodworking Tools
- see all episodes
Comments
great show!
Great show, love the humor, what happened to the sound affects?
In my 1939 L. S. Starrett catalog, the bevel end is shown to be used for inside acute angle measurements.
Nice podcast. I prefer the video as there are often word descriptions that just don't always make it through the audio-only. And the level of humor is acceptable. Thanks.
As to the angle on the Bevel gauge, it sometime allows you to get into inside corners where you wouldn't otherwise be able to. And with the angle on the end of the blade, the handle can be made shorter without loosing integrity of the tool. However, some say the angle was put there for digging out the old grout from around window panes or it could be sharpened to use as a make-shift scribing knife.
Keep up the good work guys.
There are two kinds of bevel gauge blades.
Type 1 is bevel down, and the newer version is bevel up.
The bevel down was traditionally used by old wood workers to scratch an itch in hard to reach parts of the body.
The bevel up is a new concept type of blade that can be bought in various blade configurations and sold at inflated prices to young affluent wannabee wood workers that are just itching to own and possibly use hand tools.
What is Rollie's process for measuring
Parallel at 45•....
When and where will Roland's compact table saw review be published? I thought the podcast referred to the 2016 Tools Guide, but Taunton Press told me he only had a Bandsaw review in that issue.
Great podcast. Thanks,
The angle on the end of a sliding bevel gauge actually was not always present. It was not introduced until the mid 18th century by a team of German woodworker-turned-tool makers Matthias von Kennyschniztel and Mikael Oostenhausen das Pekovich. Matthias was in charge of manufacturing of baby furniture and an oddly substantial amount of small boxes while Mikael was in charge of assembly and finishing. During glue-ups of the tiny pieces, Mikael could not get his meaty schnitzel sized fingers inside the boxes to clean up the glue squeeze-out so he had an idea when looking at his sliding bevel gauge on the workbench next to him. He thought if he cut an angle on the end of it, it would fit perfectly into the small crevices of the furniture so he could scrape away the excess glue. They immediately started manufacturing this new design and it was an instant success. Other notable items to come from this team are, blue colored joinery tape, waterlox, rogaine, and flocking. And in the words of Paul Harvey "and now you know.... the rest of the story".
In reality the 45 is to make quick miters on a board. It's a rough way to do it but it worked for marking up 2x4s and stuff like that
While I agree that the angled end of a bevel gauge allows gauging into an inside angle, I believe that the real reason for the angle is to allow the tool to be used for killing zombies. A square or rounded end just wouldn't have the penetration needed.
Hi Guys... I heard Roland (a.k.a Rollie) mention he was a gearhead. Me too! I'm surprised that correlation doesn't take place more often. I spent several years building an old Corvette and when I was done and didn't have a car project I decided to get into the woodworking thing. I've been at it for about 4 years or so and have some done some interesting projects... thanks to my mechanical side, and also Fine Woodworking. The unfortunate part of the story is that since I was a gearhead, I started off woodworking buying all the machinery! After getting into the hobby a while, now I mainly use handtools. I still use a table saw and band saw to get close, but my handtools are where the joy of woodworking comes in. Just a word to the newbies... use your handtools awhile before you pop for heavy, high cost machinery.
aylward johhn,
Rollie's review is in this years Tools & Shops issue, which should be out very soon. Thanks for listening.
Matt
I left out the 'point': The purpose of the angle on the bevel gauge is quite simple: as an oracular device, it points to the area where the craftsman is most likely to make a mistake when cutting or milling.
45 degree parallel adjustment!!!! WOW!!!
I have ALWAYS hated cutting 45 deg bevels with my table saw. I thought I had it tuned perfectly, yet I could never figure out why the thing always wanted to smoke and kick back at me when cutting 45 bevels.
I made 90 and 45 deg parallel measurements with a dial indicator this morning ... and voila!!! at 90 degrees I was out by less than .002" - just about perfect. Yet, at 45 degrees I was out by .047"!!! Bingo, problem found... ordering up some shims from MSC and fixing that 15 year old problem this weekend.
THANK YOU ROLLIE!!!!
I love these forums and reviews. One thing I am looking for is a place where I can find the distances between the blade and the miter slots for different saw models. I am looking to "down size" / become more portable with a smaller saw than my old Delta Contractor saw. I would like to avoid remaking a number of jigs I have made over the years of using this saw. Perfect for me would be to see what is available where the miter slot the right is five and a half inches from the blade and to the left 4 and three eighths from the blade. These values seem hard to find on the manufacturers web sites I have gotten a few by measuring what some store have on the floor but would like to see more fully what is possible. Anyone know how to get at these measurements? Thanks
Interesting video - you might *index it* somehow because it is tedious to listen to it all if you just want one part (e.g. I wanted only the table saw review).
I realize you are trying to protect your print edition, but it would have been informative to see video of the saws in action. Plus it would have been useful to me to get more data on the saws (e.g. article did not include weights of the saws for some reason).
Saw mobility is very important, and the article made me hunt to see which ones had wheels - that should have been right up top in the summary box.
One suggestion along these lines: do an article or video to show how to install a mobile base under one of these saws. I can't figure how to lift the saw to actually get the base under the saw.
Also it would have been useful to have a link to show what cities Roland is actually going to visit.
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