Comments

1. 
   jf428220 | Mar 02, 2012 08:29pm | #1

   Hi all;

   My question is for Mike: How did you account for seasonal movement in the panels of the Chimney Cupboard? You mentioned in one of the video segments (all great BTW) that it was a "tight" fit.

   Thanks,
   Jack

2. 
   MKenney | Mar 02, 2012 08:55pm | #2

   There are grits of sandpaper that can polish equally to an 8000 grit stones. I used them when I first started woodworking.

3. 
   cahudson42 | Mar 02, 2012 08:56pm | #3

   Suggestion: For future Shop Talk Lives - let the participants see the questions in advance.

   That way, any questions or ambiguities can get resolved beforehand - and advance thought given to a tight answer.

   For example, on my question on resolving scratch patterns, my bevel-up smoother has a microbevel giving an effective 60 degrees - not the usual low angle 37. And I think Mike's answer assumed it was likely 37.

   Keep them coming! A great addition.
   Regards,
   Chris

4. 
   Anatole | Mar 02, 2012 08:57pm | #4

   You can buy micro mesh pads in very fine grits, up to 12,000 for sure.

5. 
   Don2Laughs | Mar 02, 2012 09:16pm | #5

   Can you guys talk about panel saws ... rip vs crosscut as first buy. I'm following the trend toward using hand tools exclusively. Good ones are VERY expensive $225+ and I wonder if the rip saw will do all I need done since I have a nice backsaw and dovetail saw for crosscut needs. Does the question of using bowsaw vs western handsaw weigh in this decision?
   I recently built a saw bench (Chris Swatrtz inspired) and find it extremely convenient & useful.

6. 
   LisaMorgan | Mar 02, 2012 09:21pm | #6

   members: yes, we will run this later next week as an archived episode.

7. 
   beem | Mar 02, 2012 09:45pm | #7

   Great first show! Having Mike go to the white board to illustrate his points was very helpful. The only criticism (minor) is that I noticed Asa was not miked. The audio was perfectly clear but there was an echo chamber effect with Asa. I missed the first couple minutes of the show, so you may have touched on that at the beginning. I look forward to the next episode.

8. 
   epirnik | Mar 03, 2012 12:46am | #8

   Dear beem:

   Thanks very much for your kind words. Indeed, we noticed that issue with Asa's mic as well. The gremlin was tracked down and we look forward to episode two (should roll out on Friday, March 16 - we'll have that nailed down by that time.
   These initial beta events are always finicky the first time around. I'm also glad you found that white board helpful. we weren't sure if it would pay off or not, but I too feel that it really helped Mike to get some good points across.

   Best to you,
   -Ed

9. 
   MPekovich | Mar 03, 2012 01:49am | #9

   Hi Chris, you're absolutely right. I was assuming a lower bevel angle. Tackling white oak at 60 degees could work well. Have you tried it?
   My 4 1/2 with the 55 degree frog still caused a lot of tear out, but I didn't consider putting a back bevel on the blade for an even steeper angle. If 60 works for you, I'll give it a shot. Thanks, Mike

10. 
    jacko9 | Mar 03, 2012 03:31pm | #10

    When will you folks do an event on the West Coast?

11. 
    cahudson42 | Mar 04, 2012 03:39pm | #11

    For Mike..
    Thanks reply, Mike. My 4 1/2 is the Veritas bevel-up smoother. I always buy the 25-degree blades, and then micro-bevel to whatever I want (not a back bevel). That way little metal needs removed, and its much easier to slightly camber. I set to the thinnest possible shavings for the final pass, so 60 is not hard to push. I've used it a lot on cherry where it works beautifully, but was asking my question partly because I haven't tried it yet on white Oak with medullary rays.

    Unfortunately, my main (and only) shop is 3-season (Adirondacks) - and I won't reopen until early April. So won't be able to try the Oak until then.

    Maybe we can have an Update for Shop Talk Live #2 from you - or others - on 60, or even 62?

12. 
    MGBbaker | Mar 20, 2012 10:29pm | #12

    I just listened to this episode. Very enjoyable. I laughed when Mike explained his episode with the new Japanese saw and the drawer front. You might run out of these stories in quick order (I'm sure you guys don't screw up that often), but that's a good segment to have periodically.

    I could do without the sound effects, but I'm not going to lose any sleep over them ;-)

    Among others, I listen to various photography podcasts. They often have segments where a photographer will be interviewed. Woodworking is perfect for this also. And with FW's access to so many varied woodworkers, you could do the same. Please consider adding interviews into the mix. You could even invite them into the live discussion.

13. 
    chwood | Apr 17, 2012 09:40pm | #13

    Hi, I also use a Srarrett #13A Double Square,(4") all the time, but they only come with a plain steal blade. A big improvement is to replace the blade with a satin chrome one from a 4" combo. square, part # CB4-4R. It is much easier to read with a non-glare finish and is rust resistant. I bought mine on eBay, but you can also buy them at MSI or McMaster Carr.

14. 
    RayRoc | Apr 21, 2012 12:53pm | #14

    Good job on some good questions.

15. 
    Calwilliams63 | Jul 01, 2013 06:12pm | #15

    Hey guys, I enjoyed the podcast and plan to continue listening to the rest. Great job!! I do have one thing that I would like to add and that is at the end of the show you guys are talking about plywood staining differently than the hardwood (typically stains darker). I've heard this from woodworkers several times and they always seem to have the same answer as you guys did. Coming from the cabinet industry where plywood is used exclusively for the carcass. Sometimes there just isn't a color wood that the customer or yourself may want for whatever the situation therefore stain comes into play. So, needless to say I have stained plywood to match the hardwood faceframes on numerous occasions. Honestly more times than I can count. As I am not an advocate of staining beautiful wood sometimes that's just what you have to do when trying to achieve a certain color. The trick is to sand the plywood to a grit or two higher than what you sand the hardwood to. Say Cherry for instance, I would sand the faceframes to 180 and the plywood to 220 or even 320.