A dado set consists of a pair of outer blades and a set of chippers of varying thickness. By stacking them in combination, you can cut a dado from 1⁄4 in. to 13⁄16 in. wide.
Begin by adjusting your dado set for a cut wider than the intended rabbet (1). Then clamp an L-fence to your rip fence, positioning it just above the blade (2). You don’t want the blade to contact the L-fence, but it should be low enough to support the workpiece along the entire cut. Make sure that it is level front to back as well. It’s easiest to set the height of the blade before sliding the fence into its final position.
1.
2.
Use a combination square to set the blade height, which will determine the depth of the rabbet (3). It is important that the square sits on the tablesaw top and not the insert, which may not be level with the table. Then reset the square to the width of the rabbet and use it to set the fence location (4).
3.
4.
Now you’re ready to cut a rabbet. For long, narrow parts, use a long push stick to keep downward pressure along the length of the part (5).
5.
Use a push pad for panels:For wide stock, use a push pad to keep the part flat against the tablesaw top. The wide cut made by a dado set creates more upward force than a regular blade, which can cause the part to lift up during the cut, resulting in a rabbet that’s too shallow.
Excerpted from Foundations of Woodworking (The Taunton Press, 2021) by Michael Pekovich. Available in the Taunton Store and at Amazon.com.
Fine Woodworking Recommended Products
JessEm Mite-R Excel II Miter Gauge
The gauge has a quick and easy method for fitting the guide bar precisely to your tablesaw’s miter slot. This means the gauge can be recalibrated if necessary for continued accuracy. The face of the protractor head can be adjusted square to the table and also square to the guide bar. This ensures accurate cuts, and it, too, can be readjusted if the need arises. The protractor head has stainless-steel knobs and fittings and high-contrast, easy-to-read white numbers and increments.
Regardless of the board’s grain, this jointer produced excellent results. Its fence was totally flat, worked smoothly, and locked well, staying in place even after jointing multiple edges. Getting the fence to 90° was very easy, but the 90° stop was a little tricky to set and the fence did not go back to square when using it. For those who would use it, there is also a digital depth-of-cut scale.
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Comments
How can we make it tight when the screw loose?
i'm the founder of hayat carpentry
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