Machine Setup: Setting Jointer Knives
In this episode, Matt Wajda tackles the often frustrating task of setting the jointer knives properly.
When a machine is tuned up and maintained properly, it will not only make your woodworking more accurate, but it will also make your time in the shop more enjoyable. Woodworking instructors Matt Wajda and Ellen Kaspern have spent countless hours behind machines making furniture, and they’ve also taught classes on setting up and maintaining machinery. In this video workshop series, Matt and Ellen will show you what they know, guiding you through each critical machine in the shop.
Ellen will show you how to tune up your tablesaw: making the miter slots parallel to the blade, setting the fence parallel to the miter slots, setting the tabletop parallel to the angle of the blade, and finally lubricating all of the moving parts.
On the bandsaw, Ellen will make sure that the blade is tracking properly by setting the wheels coplanar to each other, crowning the tires, and setting the tilt and tension on the top wheel. Finally she’ll set the bearings and guide blocks.
On the planer, Matt will set the bed parallel to the cutterhead and set the knives. Then he’ll use a gauge block and a shim to set the cutting circle, infeed rollers, pressure bar, and outfeed rollers. To finish it off, he’ll clean and lubricate the machine.
Matt will also show how to tune up the hollow-chisel mortiser, setting the fence parallel to the chisel, making sure the bed is perpendicular to the fence, and ensuring that the chisel and tables move smoothly and accurately.
In this episode
Matt will demonstrate how to set the jointer knives using the outfeed table as a reference, and set the depth of cut. In the previous episode, he showed how to set up the jointer tables correctly.
Videos in the Series
-
An Introduction to Machine SetupJuly 23, 2018 -
Machine Setup: The Table SawJuly 23, 2018 -
Machine Setup: Adjusting Jointer TablesJuly 30, 2018 -
Machine Setup: Setting Jointer KnivesJuly 30, 2018 -
Machine Setup: The BandsawAugust 7, 2018 -
Machine Setup: Hollow-Chisel MortiserAugust 13, 2018 -
Machine Setup: The PlanerAugust 20, 2018
Comments
really excellent demo of the important features of the jointer that need to be aligned for proper performance of any jointer...great job ... I'm glad you showed the number of times it took to get one blade correctly set otherwise when someone is doing it if it takes time they might give up and cry...but now they see to be patient and eventually you'll get it :) thanks
Using a video presentation and not a PDF article is excellent. This is a time consuming video but one that teaches in real time what it takes to properly adjust a jointer. It really sets a good standard to assist all of us with shorter tempers. :) EXCELLENT
I cannot wait for the next part in this series to come out. I have just bought a second hand band saw for my small workshop and am itching to get it set up properly :)
Bandsaw will be released tomorrow!
On my jointer, a few years ago, I replaced the blade cutter head with a Shellix spiral cutterhead.. It works just fine, but I've never really done a maintenance like this one. Any chance you can do this part with a Shellix?? Thanks.
Thank you for posting this video. Matt is clear, precise, and detailed in his presentation. I have struggled over the years with less-than-satisfactory results from my jointer. I believe that I can get it straightened out now...thanks to this excellent tutorial.
I've got a 1940s-50s Delta 6" jointer that I restored and installed new knives in the cutterhead. I had read articles and watched a few videos to see how to make the adjustments to the knives, but this is by far the best video. It is clear and concise. I am going to go back to square one and check my table alignment this time and reset my knives using this method. Thank you for this wonderful resource.
Fantastic instructional video! I have a circa 1990 Bridgewood 8” joineter and the cutter head has springs in it for the knives. For years I left the springs in the cutter head but after watching this video I decided to remove the spring and use a couple magnets to hold the knives up to the outfeed table. I was able to get the knive within a few thousands of an inch to the outfeed table. Had a very small amount of snipe on first cut but raised the outfeed table 3 thousands of an inch and the cuts were perfect. Most importantly always check your beds for parallel. Once set you good to go!
Great instructional videos Matt. My jointer isn’t as big but I adjust the knives as you do with 1/8” travel. The other thing when I grind my knives, I use a small ingredient scale to make sure I get each knife the same weight for proper balance. After I grind them I then use my jig to hone them with 3 diamond stones coarse, Medium and fine. Then use the font on the backside to remove any burs. Man they sharp! I cut myself LOL. Again, thanks for the vids.
Great videos! In the past I have used a "magnet guide" to set the blades flat to the outfeed table. The problem with that method is that you have to set them at exactly top dead center. You end up best guessing this with a feeler gauge and hoping that the head doesn't move when you bring the jig in. Otherwise, your "cutting circle" becomes an oval.
I tried Matt's method this time and I will never go back. My test boards ran perfectly over the head. Way smoother than before. Test cuts were perfect with no snipe. I've never liked my old 8" jointer more!
One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen! Thank you.
Hey Folks,
Great video, great series!. I have never replaced the knives on my Jet 6" jointer, but I now have the idea of how to do it.
I would like to make one suggestion - the drill press is absent from your series, and I would really like to know how to maintain my drill press. I use it regularly, and lately have noticed a bit of wobble - really would like to know the process to get this machine back to health? Thanks again folks, very informative series!
Joe
I know someone else already asked this, but if setting up a helical head, you can't adjust the knives to the outfeed table. Would you set the outfeed table to still be 3000th lower than the knives?
Great video and very well explained. I have an 8" King and changing knives is the job I most dislike and sometimes I'll put off too long. I've just used two pieces of wood, front and back and as long as the both moved minimally, but the same, I've called it good. I didn't know about the eighth inch but will use the ruler and measurement next time. I bought a spare set of knives b ut they were narrower than the originals. I thought I was getting cheated but it looks like I avoided a problem without even knowing it. Thanks, Matt.
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