Tools & Materials
Upgrade Your Jointer with a Segmented Cutterhead
Learn step-by-step techniques for upgrading a jointer with a state-of-the-art segmented cutterhead.
When it comes to planers and jointers, segmented cutterheads are quickly gaining ground among today’s woodworkers. And it’s no wonder why. Cutting edges last longer, and each individual cutterhead is sharpened and honed on four sides. That means that dealing with a nicked edge is as simple as loosening a screw and rotating into a fresh, new edge. As an added benefit, segmented cutterheads provide a smoother cut, with less noise.
In this short video, contributing editor Roland Johnson demonstrates step-by-step techniques for swapping out your jointer’s conventional straight-knifed head for a state-of-the-art segmented model.
Easy to install
Out with the old, in with the new
For more on setting up a jointer
- Machine Setup: Adjusting Jointer Tables
- Machine Setup: Setting Jointer Knives
- How to Tune Up Any Jointer
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Comments
where can I get this new segmented cutterhead for my jointer?
About two years ago, I replaced the cutter head on my 6" Steel City jointer. I replaced it with a Shelix segmented cutter head. The replacement cutter head was a drop-in replacement for my specific machine.
My installation process was much as Mr. Johnson demonstrates but for two things. First, I chose to have the bearing pre-installed on the new cutter head, saving me the potential difficulty of getting the existing bearings off of the old cutter head and onto the new cutter head. Second, the pulley mounted on the Steel City cutter head could not be removed - even with a gear puller - and had to be cut off, a long and arduous process. That required buying and installing a new proprietary (Steel City) pulley.
When finally installed, it works very well and I'm very pleased with the result. It was, however, more difficult - at least on my particular machine - than is shown in Mr. Johnson's video.
Go to https://shelixheads.com/ to find a cutter head that fits your machine. Then shop around. I put one in my planer and love it.
I read an article about one thing that's never mentioned about installing these new segmented cutterheads is that with less resistance that comes with them there is an increase in amperage draw in the circuit and you need to be sure that your circuit can handle the extra amperage. Can anyone comment on that?
I thought I might buy one till I saw the price $585!!!!!
I have the Jet jointer with the extra-long infeed and outfeed tables (58 inches) and the very popular DeWalt DW735 planer. My jointer has a segmented cutterhead, but my planer uses knives. Jet offered the segmented cutterhead as an upgrade when I bought the machine. I can’t even begin to tell you how much I wish DeWalt did the same. The difference between the performance of the two is nothing short of remarkable.
I plan to replace the cutterhead on the DeWalt DW735. Like everyone else, I was put off by the cost of a segmented cutterhead, and that gave me cold feet at first. But dealing with dull planer knives is a huge hassle. Knowing that the planer is dull causes me to avoid using it, which leads to project delays, which leads to frustration…and nothing gets done! Having a planer that is essentially always sharp (or easily restored to sharp) makes a huge difference in the shop.
Simply put, if you can scrape up the cash to replace your cutterhead, you will not regret the upgrade.
I took delivery of my stationary planer with a standard cutter head. I never turned it on before replacing the head with a Shells. Now I have a brand new standard cutter head, as well as a remarkable Shells cutter-equipped planer. Oh - and I saved about $400 bucks over buying the matching with a clone segmented head.
I also upgraded my jointer. These were the best upgrades I've done in my shop. You can just forget tear out. You can pretty much forget grain direction. (And of course we all know that grain direction never reverses on a board, right? 😉) Yes, they are expensive - but you won't spend a better chunk on anything else. (Well, except for maybe that new Laguna bandsaw I bought, but that's another story!)
I upgraded my jointer about 7 years ago, and my 15" planer last year. The performance is awesome, and much quieter
This video is fine but it overlooks the whole matter of leveling the tables to the new cutterhead. Unlike straight blades which are leveled to the table, with the segmented blades there is no adjustment. So you have to level the tables to the cutterhead. This can be far more challenging, especially with an older machine.
I had the same experience replacing the cutterhead in my generic (Ridgid) 6" jointer. The old straight knives had hidden the fact that the outfeed dovetails and the cutterhead mount were not even across the width of the machine. My solution was to shim the new cutterhead, rather than trying to level the tables to the "newly" uneven cutterhead. And finding that level was not easy, given the 28 knives to be measured.
Nothing to do with cutter heads, but wanted to let others know that V-belts should be installed as matched pairs so that both belts drive equally. Purchase them as such from an industrial supplier and replace both when even one is worn.
How would this cutterhead work on a direct drive jointer?
@cruizin31 Many folks have put segmented heads on things like the De Walt DW 735. Some question the wisdom of adding a cutterhead that cost nearly what the planer did but, people who go this route seem very happy.
Knives for the DeWalt DW735 and inexpensive and easily replaced.
That's fine but my question still stands. How can you put one of these heads on a direct drive machine?
You would need to give a lot more information than you're giving. First off, jointer or planer? Size? Age? Even then, you'd probably want to make sure that a cutter head is available, so you should check with someone like Byrd.
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