Shaker-Inspired Hall Table

Synopsis: No matter where you put this table, it looks good and it fits in. The design is sturdy but looks light and attractive, thanks in large part to the splay of the turned and tapered legs, an effect that is easy to create with a few simple, angled cuts at the tablesaw. The arches on the bottom of the aprons contribute to the lighter appearance. This is a perfect project for getting acquainted with angled joinery. You’ll also learn a no-nonsense way to get a nice straight taper on the legs, a deceptively difficult turning task.

This long, narrow table, which I designed years ago, is a kind of chameleon. You can use it in a variety of ways and in all sorts of places: as a hall table, a display table, behind a couch, or even as a sideboard-like serving table. No matter where you put this piece, it looks good and fits in. The design is sturdy but looks light and attractive, thanks in large part to the splay of the turned and tapered legs.

Unless I’m doing an exact Shaker reproduction, I splay all table legs that are turned and tapered. Otherwise, they tend to look pigeon-toed and slightly unstable. And for a long, narrow table like this, there’s more than just appearance at stake. The splayed legs make the base wider at the floor than under the top, giving it a surer stance.

For the maker, part of the beauty is that this gently splayed stance is easy to create with just a few simple, angled cuts at the tablesaw. This project is perfect for getting acquainted with angled joinery, and for working with the lathe. The angles are all small and easy to cut, and the turning won’t overwhelm you. I’ll show you a no-nonsense way to get a nice straight taper on those legs, a deceptively difficult turning task.

A Straight Approach To Round Legs 

These legs are square at the top where they join the aprons, with the turned portion beginning 4 in. from the top. The most difficult part of the turning is cleanly cut ting this transition from square to round.

With the blank centered in the lathe and the transition point marked on the stock, set the lathe at approximately 2,200 rpm and use a 1 ⁄2-in. spindle gouge to turn away from the mark until you have a few inches of true round. Next, cut the transition using a diamond-point tool held on edge, carefully entering the cut at about a 45° angle. It takes a steady hand to make this cut without knocking off the square corners; I suggest practicing on cheap stock until you master the technique.

From Fine Woodworking #227

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Online Extra: How to Turn a Tapered Shaker Leg

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