I had trouble squaring the carcass of large cabinets, such as a pantry. I didn’t have clamps long enough to force the carcass into a square. Also, I couldn’t install the back while the clamps were on. This jig is made up of two triangles that can be attached to opposite corners using short screws along the edge. A tensioning strap will draw the corners to square them. You can install the back panel while the strap is on and then remove it by unraveling the strap from the buckle. See photos.
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One of the two triangles with a hook on one side to install in opposite corners
One triangle installed. The triangle will also help square the corner during installation.
The jig fully installed (opposite corner not shown). Tightening the strap will square the case and the back can be installed while the strap is in place. This can also be used on the face frame side and you can install the face frame without interference from the strap (see next photo).
You can also use the holes to attached the hooks for the strap. This set up is for the face frame, where the hooks don't have to be attached to the back of the triangles as in the previous photo.
Install one triangle using a clamp and two short screws along the edges of the carcass.
I like this jig a lot and can see many uses for it on large cases. I will be making some shortly. Is there an option for increasing the size of the through hole to allow clamps to be used un conjunction with the strap thus elliminating the need for screws?
I like the suggestion of removing the corner in order to prevent gluing the fixture to the cabinet.
Thank you for the feedback. I also like the suggestion of removing the corner to prevent gluing the fixture to the cabinet. This, I think, also helps in reducing the contact surface area and providing a better fit. You can increase the size of the through hole to allow for clamps to be used instead of screws, but this will prevent you from leaving the jig in-place while applying the back or face frame. But you can do this on the face frame side while installing the back and vice versa, but I find that my cases need to be squared on each side I am working on; maybe it is my shoddy workmanship or the cheap plywood I buy :-( Thanks, ATOMA
Thanks for a great jig idea, especially the strap feature. I have faced exactly this problem while trying to glue up large case carcasses. I have tried the large right triangles with holes for clamps. They work fine for keeping each component at right angles. But that still left the possibility of minor tweaking needed for accumulated errors over the whole case. Adding length to my pipe clamps just added a lot of weight to the problem of squaring the case. I have more large cases to build and will definitely use this idea.
Why not make a squaring triangle similar to what you have shown with a 1x' screwed and glued to it and use 4 clamps and "push" the cabinet square? No screw holes in your cabinet!
This really is not a very innovate squaring jig and really shouldn't be recommended in a publication that's supposedly dedicated to " Fine Woodworking." A more effective and refined method would a "Scissor Brace" as recommended in Popular Woodworking !
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Comments
That is a neat trick! I should use that in my work too!
Thanks for posting!
nice jig, but i would clip off the 90 degree corner of it to prevent it from possibly being glued to your project.
I like this jig a lot and can see many uses for it on large cases. I will be making some shortly. Is there an option for increasing the size of the through hole to allow clamps to be used un conjunction with the strap thus elliminating the need for screws?
I like the suggestion of removing the corner in order to prevent gluing the fixture to the cabinet.
Cheers,
Thank you for the feedback. I also like the suggestion of removing the corner to prevent gluing the fixture to the cabinet. This, I think, also helps in reducing the contact surface area and providing a better fit. You can increase the size of the through hole to allow for clamps to be used instead of screws, but this will prevent you from leaving the jig in-place while applying the back or face frame. But you can do this on the face frame side while installing the back and vice versa, but I find that my cases need to be squared on each side I am working on; maybe it is my shoddy workmanship or the cheap plywood I buy :-( Thanks, ATOMA
Thanks for a great jig idea, especially the strap feature. I have faced exactly this problem while trying to glue up large case carcasses. I have tried the large right triangles with holes for clamps. They work fine for keeping each component at right angles. But that still left the possibility of minor tweaking needed for accumulated errors over the whole case. Adding length to my pipe clamps just added a lot of weight to the problem of squaring the case. I have more large cases to build and will definitely use this idea.
Great idea, I have the same problems with large case work. This makes the work a lot easier.
I coll!!!!!!!!1
I have a similar method, but I love the strap idea!
I use one that's almost like this except mine has cleats to capture the outside of the case, and I've been using a pipe clamp.
Why not make a squaring triangle similar to what you have shown with a 1x' screwed and glued to it and use 4 clamps and "push" the cabinet square? No screw holes in your cabinet!
a worthwhile idea, I have made a set,
works great
This really is not a very innovate squaring jig and really shouldn't be recommended in a publication that's supposedly dedicated to " Fine Woodworking." A more effective and refined method would a "Scissor Brace" as recommended in Popular Woodworking !
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