Shop Tips - Page 128 of 165

There are times when you need the fence and the miter-gauge slot on a router table or a shaper to be perfectly parallel with each other, such as when you…

When I finally decided to make Christian Becksvoort's round Shaker stand (Fine Woodworking #110, pp. 70-73), I used a different technique for cutting the sliding dovetails into the base of…

For the past two years I've been working on a Queen Anne highboy similar to the one described by Randall O'Donnell in Fine Woodworking #117-119. When the time came to…

By adding an extra fence to your router, you can cut mortises quickly and accurately, and you virtually eliminate the risks of the router wandering or tipping into the cut.…

When you need to put a short piece of wood through the thickness planer, here's how to eliminate snipe at each end of the workpiece. Cut 1-in.-wide wood strips about…

Recently I built a spindle-sided cradle with angled sides and ends. This type of construction requires that each spindle mortise be bored at a slightly different angle. Not trusting my…

I just finished a job that required routing dadoes, veining, and edging on large circular and semicircular shapes. The standard router edge guide is useless in these situations because the…

Most woodworkers appreciate the performance and accuracy that a sliding table would lend to their tablesaw, especially one with enough capacity to crosscut a full sheet of plywood. But for…

I attached metal shelf standards and brackets to the legs of my workbench. With the aid of a small shelf resting on the brackets, I can support large awkward workpieces,…

This zero-clearance fence is an easy project that improves the performance of almost any router bit. The fence is made of 1/2-in.-thick medium-density fiberboard (MDF). Construction details are shown in…