Shop Tips - Page 139 of 164

Here's a fixture I built for keeping work tight against the tablesaw's fence. It allows accurate, fast ripping in production situations. The heart of the fixture is a common wheel…

Recently, I had to shorten some factory-made tapered legs. To make sure the cut was perpendicular to the centerline of the legs, I used the following simple method: I cut…

Fluting in flat surfaces adds grace to fireplace surrounds, doorway casings and the like. This router jig simplifies the process. Start by building a guide carriage with two parts: a…

To enable me to rapidly insert and remove my router from my router table, I built the toggle-clamp fixture shown in the drawing above. I removed the rubber cushions from…

My jewelry boxes feature a sunburst pattern on the lid, which I make by gluing up nine or so tapered pieces into a fan shape. The jig that I use…

If you've used a router table, you know firsthand the annoyances that go with mounting, dismounting and adjusting the router under the table. So when I redesigned my router table,…

Making tight-fitting, precise joints on crown molding is a time-consuming and fussy task at best. The tall profile of the moldings combined with the low fence height on most chopsaws…

Here's a simple method for marking the drill holes for mounting a router to a jig or router-table insert. For each threaded mounting hole in the router base, purchase a…

Richard Fryklund's budget-conscious plate-joinery jig (Fine Woodworking #75, p. 12) inspired the jig shown above. This jig incorporates a series of scallops along both edges of a piece of Baltic-birch…

To prevent thin stock and plastic laminate from slipping under a rip fence, buy a scrap of magnetic sign material, and use spray glue to attach it to a strip…