Shop Tips - Page 140 of 164

The oscillating spindle-sander attachment for a drill press described in Fine Woodworking #109 appears to be a good substitute for a benchtop sander. I built a similar, less expensive version…

Forty-five years ago, I worked in a large shop where I cut out parts for store cases, 50 or so per tablesaw setup. In some instances, we had to mill…

Here's an exact and reproducible way to drill rows of evenly spaced holes. The technique uses a drill press and a fixture that combines indexing blocks, a fence and gauge…

Here is a cheap, easy way to straighten a rough-edged or crooked board on the bandsaw. Screw a length of aluminum or steel-bar stock to the bottom of the board.…

I put off building one of those carriage fixtures for straightening crooked-edged boards for several years. The fixtures require expensive hold-down clamps, and they reduce the possible depth of cut…

Here's a router-table technique for producing clean, precise pocket holes for joining face-frame members. First, construct a wooden cradle fitted with a lever-operated toggle clamp. The cradle angles the workpiece…

Here's a quick, simple way to attach a bowl blank to the lathe. The method requires a faceplate larger than the finished bowl. Start by screwing the square bowl blank…

Although my shaper reluctantly will profile the edge of a raised panel with one pass, I feel that it is safer and more efficient to remove some of the waste…

This method provides a quick and accurate setup for jointing the edges of stock with a router. Make a two-piece jig that consists of an alignment fixture and a fence.…

I removed the guides (tool rests) that came with my grinder and replaced them with a single piece of steel angle that spans both wheels. I use this guide for…