Mortise And Tenon Joints - Page 15 of 19

Three tips to fine-tuning the fit of a mortise-and-tenon joint

I cut slot mortises on my radial arm saw using this two-way sliding table. The table consists of three separate 3/4-in. thick plywood or particle-board sections. Cut the middle and…

With a metal pipe, a simple jig and my radial-arm saw, I solved the problem of cutting round tenons on the ends of slats for the sides of a cradle.…

Here's a fixture for cutting mortises on the drill press using fluted end-milling cutters. A lateral control mechanism, made from 1/8-in. steel plate, pivots at three points and gives the…

Recently I rescued an old American 16-in. tablesaw from the junkyard. The machine had a slot-mortising chuck on the end of the arbor and provisions for bolting on a mortising…

Frustrated with hollow-chisel and router mortises, I made this drill-press mortising fixture, which works even better than I expected. Its secret is a pair of precision ball-bearing drawer slides. Precision…

This jig is used to cut open bridle-joint mortises in frame members. It solves many of the problems inherent with sliding jigs, which tend to be complicated to make and…

Without a doubt, the mortise and tenon joint is used more than any other for woodwork and furniture. There are literally hundreds of variations on the basic joint, but they…

A plunge router, a tablesaw, and a couple of jigs make the process of cutting a mortise and tenon almost foolproof.

A review of router-driven tools that make quick work of mortise-and-tenon joints