The finished pie crust edge
I recently built a Walnut side table for a friend. I liked the design we came up with and decided to make a second version to be used as a night stand in our home.
I wanted to try adding a pie crust edge on the top on the second version. I thought it might be helpful to be able to feel where the edge is when sliding a glass of water onto the top in a dark room.
The walnut was great to work with and the process was a lot of fun. These process photos should give readers a good idea of the technique I came up with.
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The finished pie crust edge
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1. Using a pattern made from MDF, I used a core box bit to rout a channel just inside the outer edge.
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2. Set a straight plunge bit to just a hair higher than the deepest section of the routed groove. Then starting in one corner make your way back across the top.
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3. The is probably the biggest mess I ever made with a router. Next time I would take the time to set up dust collection, but either way a dust mask is key.
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4. After routing, an apron plane smoothed out the majority of the top recess. A Stanley 93 rabbet plane with the nose removed did a good job sneaking up to the bottom of the groove where the apron plane couldn't reach.
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5. I sanded the flat center surface with a random orbit sander and then by hand at the edges, going with the grain.
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6. After bandsawing the overall shape, I sanded the outside edge smooth and in-line with the original routed groove, leaving about a 1/4 inch space.
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7. Use a bearing guided round-over bit on the bottom edge and then sand things smooth.
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8. Back to the apron plane to round-over the top edge, and then sandpaper to meet the very top of the routed groove at a point.
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The finished top
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The finished table
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The shelf also has the same overall shape as the top, but just a simple roundover on the bottom edge.
Comments
"I thought it might be helpful to be able to feel where the edge is when sliding a glass of water onto the top in a dark room."
Hey, I really like your thinking. I love it when woodworkers think in perspective and practicality
Beautiful!
Lovely and has practical advantages. But unsure how you routed out to the lower level (step 3), when you're routing away all your support land?
Zenworker,
Starting in one corner, I worked my way across the top using the top itself to support the back half of the router base. Because the top was not cut to final shape yet, there was still material to support the router base when you get to the last corner. Hope that help! Thanks,
John
Hi John - curious what the dimensions of the top are? Particularly the thickness?
Thanks, Tom
Hi Tom,
The top was between 7/8 in. and 1 in thick and then I routed down about 1/4 in. deep. Thanks!
John
Awesome work, my friend. As always.
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